KevShek' DL1000 K3 - with Mods & How To's

[dsb79]

Loving the light set up, you defiantly got your head around the led's, a little idea, why not have the rear led always on as with the lights and extras come on when you brake?

[kevshek]

I know what you mean, like a stop and tail light in one unit. It can be done, just need a resistor setup to reduce the brightness for tail, and a diode to keep both circuits apart, but id prefer to keep both lights seperate with it being so small. This way, when its on, you can clearly see I'm braking. I've got another idea for the tail light.

[mjc506]

Those connections are genius!!!!

[kevshek]

I couldn't find anything in the shop that was pre made, or in their catalogue, then it suddenly dawned on me while walking about the shop. The battery box was less then 2 quid!

[Juvecu]

Ace setup, I like it I'd have soldered the crimps and heat shrunk them myself. Probably a good idea to stick some hard foam over the ones in the bottom of the top box to prevent them from taking damage over time (any gamers smiling at that subtle one?) from whatever you're putting in your box. Love the pop rivet + ring terminal idea and will keep it filed away in the back of my head for future use, plenty of applications where that can be handy

[kevshek]

Ill be lining the box in the future, just trying to source something suitable, maybe a sheet of camping roll foam but for now, I've covered the base with a sheet of carbon vinyl to keep everything in situ. With the crimps, I've actually cut the insulating sleeve short, solder tinned the wire then crimp them in place. On the end of each crimp is a very short section of tinned wire exposed, this hopefullu will be enough for me to resolder a wire should one every break off, without the fuss or drilling out the rivet, and redoing it.

[kevshek]

Tonight I managed to knock up some SMD LED lights to fit into the box as rear tail light. They are 3 sets of 3 on each side. can't get a clear picture thou as the light seems to blur into one.

[Juvecu]

Looks a bit like a smiley face

[kevshek]

19) 530 Chain Conversion with Renthal Sprocket & Chain

The original configuration on the Vee is 17T front and 41T rear with a 525 112 link chain. This works just fine but on my bike, it left the rear sprocket slightly out of line. There are a couple of option to fix this but I decided to go for new parts as I needed a new chain and sprockets anyways. heres a picture of the before. The chain is about 2mm out and you can see the gap to the left side of the chain.


Here are the parts I bought.
Renthal Ultralight 16T Front(289U-530-16), Ultralight 41T Rear(409U-530-41HA) and Renthal R4SRS 530 Gold X Ring Superbike Chain (112 link)totaling £153.00 delivered from A&R Racing. I opted to go down 1 tooth on the front sprocket. If is want to go back to stock, then all I need is the 17T front, which is cheaper too.


Now I started doing a How To but then ran into a problem with the front sprocket retaining nut and couldn't get it off at home, so had to go to my mates garage, where I didn't bother taking any further pics till it was done. I didn't have the time and had to get it done asap.

Heres a couple of things to bear in mind, Depending on the type of chain you've bought, you may need a chain riveting tool to install it, like I did with my Renthal. Its also handy to have someone assist you with hold the bikes brakes while you undo some of the nuts before you remove the old chain..
Heres the ones you should break off before removing the chain.
1) Front sprocket nut
2) Rear axle nut
3) Rear sprocket bolts x5

First undo the speed sensor from the side of the front sprocket cover. I think this was a 4mm allen key. Then undo the 2x 6mm allen heads hold the clutch slave cylider in place. (Note: the top slave cylinder bolt passes through an aluminium sleeve, you need to retrieve that later when the covers off if it doesn't come out with the bolt.


Using an old rag, I pulled the cylinder off.


Careful not to pull out the push rod, cos if you do, the engine old will start coming out.


Next undo the 2x 8mm bolts from under the cover.


And also the 8mm bolt from the top of the cover.


After the cover is off, you may want to scrape and clean off all the crud from behind it and also in & around the front sprocket/engine casing.

Now before the front sprocket can come off, you need to remove the speedo rotor. To do this, use an allen key and undo the centre bolt from the sprocket shaft. Get someone to help with hold down the front and rear brake to stop the bike moving.


Now using a set of plumbers wrenches, gently grip the rotor top and bottom, wiggle it up & down and pull it off.


Now you can tackle the 32mm front sprocket nut. Mine was stuck solid and I had to use a windy gun. This is where the how to with pics ends.


Once the nut comes off, you simply swap the front sprocket over and it the reverse of above to refit it.
The rear sprocket is easy, Just remove the rear wheel, hub carrier and remove the rear sprocket via the 5x 14mm nuts. Chain wise, if you've bought the same chain as me, you'll need to use of a chain riveting tool. Just aswell I was in newcastle near to westgate hill!

So anyways, heres the finished results.




Speedo wise, its off. Indicated 30 mph is more like 27, 70mph is more like 63 mph. Indicated ton is more like 85 mph! I'm going to work on poss a digital speedo, cos I find the Vee's hard to read on the move anyways.

[Juvecu]

If you haven't got an air impact wrench or a friend to help hold the brakes to undo the front sprocket nut you can stick a piece of wood or something else strong (like a pipe) through the wheel so that it catches between one of the spokes and the swingarm. Only other thing you need is a long breaker bar.

[kevshek]

Its just aswell I went though, cos I didn't check to see how the new chain went together. Just aswell I got lend of a chain riveter. Its a clever bit of essential kit for these rivet links.

[wal750]

Kevshek,

Could you get away with a link less in the new chain? Doesn't look like it's left you too much adjustment  

[kevshek]

It checked and think 1 less link would have been too tight. A half link would have been ideal. If it does stretch, I'll chop one out and relink it ;o)

[robsonthejob]

If you haven't got an air impact wrench or a friend to help hold the brakes to undo the front sprocket nut you can stick a piece of wood or something else strong (like a pipe) through the wheel so that it catches between one of the spokes and the swingarm. Only other thing you need is a long breaker bar.

I used short length of wooden floor joist and a 3 foot length of scaffold pole to crack the front nut on my old TDM 850 last year worked OK but I was worried about bending something but no damage.

[kevshek]

20) HEED Engine Bars

HEED Engine bars, Fitting How To can be found HERE

[kevshek]

21) SpeedoDRD Speed correction device

So after fitting the 16T front sprocket, the OEM speedo was a bit out. After a series of speed runs I discovered these were the figures of
OEM vs GPS
30mph actual 26
40mph actual 35
50mph actual 46
60mph actual 52
70mph actual 61
80mph actual 69
90mph actual 77
100mph actual 86

In order to correct this, I opted for the SpeedoDRD purchased from www.12oclocklabs.com for around £54 delivered. For the V Strom you need the S1 model. This arrived in about 1-2 weeks using their cheapest international postage.

This is the kit.



After a quick read through the distructions, was time to set about installing it. First thing, remove the seat and then locate the speedo sensor/cable on the side of the front sprocket cover.


Give it a tug and follow the cable, you'll see it ends up going to a black 3 pin plug, just like the ones on the SpeedoDRD.


Just simple disconnect this and plug your SpeedoDRD inline using the supplied connectors.



I secured them together with a cable tie just to be safe.


Then all you do is feed it up under the tank, behind the side boomerang to the under seat area. Use cable ties to secure its cable to your harnesses.


It was just long enough to sit next to the relay/fuses by the battery.


Next comes programming, which is relatively simple. Use your figures and the online calculator and it will tell you exactly what you need to do. It tells you to use 60mph as the reference, so you won't need all the figures I did, although it slightly changes throughout the range between 30-100mph. After programming was done, I made a little foam sock to slide over it just to protect it from vibration/the elements.

[DESERTRAIDER]

hi , can I ask where you got you carbon wrap from please , cheers

[shedchief]

Excellent thread! Thanks Kev 8-)

[kevshek]

blokes, thanks for all your help and comments over the past year, but its time for me to move on.
So here she is ready for a new owner.
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17228&p=154384#p154384

[stevee_p]

What are the chances of selling the screen / madstad separately?