Author Topic: ACF50 vs Hammerite  (Read 1483 times)

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Offline Mojo-Jojo

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ACF50 vs Hammerite
« on: June 26, 2025, 22:19:46 »
So, I've had a lot of parts powder coated and I'm in the process of rebuilding it, having used both ACF50 & Hammerite on nuts and bolt heads etc. what are your thoughts on the best anti corrosion method to use. The Hammerite finish certainly looks better, but is it? Currently, I have used both methods 50/50 before reinstalling parts, but it is the long term advantages that I am after.

Offline Mojo-Jojo

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Re: ACF50 vs Hammerite
« Reply #1 on: June 26, 2025, 23:59:39 »
I should add that all parts have been soaked in 20% white vinegar to remove all rust and oils/contaminants, and then neutralised with bicarbonate of soda.

Offline nigel s

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Re: ACF50 vs Hammerite
« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2025, 05:08:07 »
If you are just talking about OE nuts and bolts?
Jenolite, or similar, rust converter helps , then painting. Then ACF 50 regularly, for bolts that are not regularly used only. Regular use bolts just ACF.

https://www.jenolite.com/collections/rust-converter?
srsltid=AfmBOopLKe1cF1XSb__iHu09o3NyTK2rAhLHn3TAAQ89Sa4mvj2jKZoX

 For some bolts that are a pain to remove ( engine mounts etc ) I have been known to use clear nail varnish after cleaning and degreasing in situ, easy to apply and dries quick .  :shrug:

But in the end ,for bolts that are used ( chain adjusters etc ) after a number of winters , I replace them with new on a rolling basis , not all at once , I am not made of money.... Either OE , if they are odd sizes/shapes. or marine stainless. Except for brake caliper bolts, if using stainless/ titanium for those make sure they are for calipers, or use OE and replace when horrid.
The effort in keeping the Originals good is not worth the cost/time after they get to a certain point of grottiness  :shrug:
Axles , I take them off and polish with a drill and polishing wheel, then  keep covered in ACF. Replace the nut / washer eventually.
Hose clamps I leave till I have to take them off for maintenence then replace with stainless, cheap enough on Fleabay, though I have about 50 in different sizes left over from jobs at work    :icon_wink:

For the rest of the bike , I use ACF 50 all year on the nuts/ bolts/ fittings and wipe down wheels/ swing arm frame with Gt85 , a good spray in the hard to get to corners , including the electrics and up under the tank.
I rarely wash it, unless it gets REALLY muddy in winter. In salt I have a 10 litre pump up weed killer sprayer full of  cold water I use to hose off the salt before putting it in the garage. The cold low pressure washes the salt off without " activating " it with hot water. Then give it an hour ( after I have got out of the bath   :icon_wink: ) when mostly dry from engine heat go back and spray some more GT85 on. Only takes 10/15 mins with practice , and loads of old towels cut into squares.

Others will disagree.......But the only times a bike needs to look showroom is for the MOT and when selling it, the rest of the time it just needs protection for those times is my thinking...works for me ... :shrug:

Ho Hum