Author Topic: 1st gear from Neutral problem on new Glee (Read 4660 times)

s-d · « **on:** October 10, 2012, 10:19:12 »

Hmmm.... all was going well with the new Glee, but its starting doing its trick of not finding first gear from neutral a bit too often. Throughout my Mod 1 test in fact! I asked the examiner (very nice bloke BTW) if that was normal for a bike that's still running in and he said no, take it back.

What I think is causing it is when I go from 2nd to neutral, eg stopping in traffic or pulling over (I usually leave it in 1st at lights). I rarely go down to 1st before stopping as it's too jerky and 2nd is fine for low speed control in slow traffic. I have to let the clutch out paddle the bike a bit then try 1st again. I don't think it happens going from 1st to neutral, then back to 1st.

Advice?

TravellingStrom · « **Reply #1 on:** October 10, 2012, 10:45:30 »

When you are rolling to a stop and have used 2nd gear to slow down, change to 1st but don't let the clutch out. That way it won't jerk you to a stop but by then you should be nearly stopped anyway and using the brakes to control where and when you stop

s-d · « **Reply #2 on:** October 10, 2012, 11:02:02 »

Yeah, 2nd to 1st with clutch in, then neutral when at a standstill should avoid the issue. I need to double check it definitely doesn't do it when going up to neutral from 1st.

Question is is 2nd to neutral the cause of the problem and is this normal, or do I have a problem? Its a brand new bike with 500 miles on it.

Strommer · « **Reply #3 on:** October 10, 2012, 11:54:05 »

I sometimes get this when the bike is very hot. Don't find it an issue too much, it's usually a sign that the bike needs an oil change or a top-up.

If I stick it into neutral at a junction I'll blip the throttle and rock the bike back and forward a bit. This makes it more likely to mesh when you pop it into 1st. I do this as a matter of habit now.

If you want to provoke this situation - pull up at a junction in 6th then, when stationary, try to pop it down through the gears to first...good luck finding first! You'll see that the best solution is to get it into first as you roll to a stop.

Try taking a DRZ400 out for a spin.... then you'll know what sticky gears are...

LaKraven · « **Reply #4 on:** October 10, 2012, 12:00:20 »

This has happened to me (tough time hitting 1st from 2nd or neuteral). The inability to hit first from neuteral if you've changed to neuteral from 2nd is actually a standard behaviour of the Wee/Glee gearbox. You're required to disengage and reengage the clutch, and it'll slide gently into 1st.

I have had, however, an occasion where it failed to change from 2nd to 1st, and either made a horrible grinding noise, or decided to go to neuteral instead. I fixed this by doing an oil change, and I'm fairly sure the dealer just used whatever bottle of oil they had open at that time rather than the best oil for the bike (I'm almost certain that they put 5W30 in my bike).

Fatbelly · « **Reply #5 on:** October 10, 2012, 13:53:31 »

You sure your clutch cable doesn't need adjusted a little bit?

patropsley · « **Reply #6 on:** October 10, 2012, 14:04:22 »

Not related to the Glee but when I got my wee after 500 miles or so I had a similar problem (also at this time of year)

I also started to do this as a fix “If I stick it into neutral at a junction I'll blip the throttle and rock the bike back and forward a bit. This makes it more likely to mesh when you pop it into 1st. I do this as a matter of habit now.”

Over a weekend it got progressively worse – I took it back and they discovered when they put the bike together it hadn’t been greased appropriately, After greasing all has been well since.

Hope it is something simple

Pat

s-d · « **Reply #7 on:** October 10, 2012, 14:44:40 »

OK sounds like its a combo of normal behavior, needing and oil change (its due its almost 1st service) and clutch cable adjustment. I did fiddle with the clutch cable adjustment to remove a bit of the slack at the lever, but only slightly. The problem has been since I did that, so it could be a cause.

Fatbelly · « **Reply #8 on:** October 10, 2012, 15:44:12 »

At it's very first service they will check adjustment of the clutch cable. It's normal for new cables to stretch a little. Mention your problem to them just to make sure they look at it.

Jacko · « **Reply #9 on:** October 10, 2012, 16:13:21 »

Slack at the clutch lever is normal, and as it happens, necessary, I'd start by putting the play at the lever back how it was.

Motorcycle sequential gearboxes can be temperamental, even Suzuki ones, especially when new.. When this sort if thing happens just spin the clutch a little by letting the lever out to where it bites to disengage the clutch momentarily and then pull it back in and make your selection.. Over the years we get used to this and so sometimes hardly even notice it's happening..

The grease thing you mention is a linkage problem, where the unions in the linkage between the gear lever and the selector shaft, (the rod that goes into the gearbox) can dry up causing selection problems.. A strip and grease will sort that out.. I wouldn't have though it would be that on a 500 mile bike though..

Strommer · « **Reply #10 on:** October 10, 2012, 16:56:30 »

I would seriously do an oil level check before worrying. This is a classic symptom of low oil level.

loggamatt · « **Reply #11 on:** October 10, 2012, 18:43:22 »

This happened on training for my DAS, when I was still using the riding school's 125cc bike. At the time, I didn't know how to correct it which led to me losing the whole pack at some lights and it taking the instructor an hour to find me again! Suffice to say, I was mocked by the other students

But yeah, happens every now and then on the Glee... I usually try to change from neutral to 1st in plenty of time, so I have enough time to let the clutch part way out and get it into first before lights change etc.

stibbs · « **Reply #12 on:** October 10, 2012, 18:56:46 »

I've never had this problem on mine.
I'd do as suggested and check the oil

Mitch · « **Reply #13 on:** October 10, 2012, 20:42:53 »

Have you checked your chain tension. I found unless the chain is within the normal tolerances stated in the handbook you may notice problems in changing gear. On mine I had a similar issue once I retentioned the chain a little too tight after 1000 miles - 20mm deflection in my case caused issues on down changing . The Glee gearboxes are normally silky smooth but do let you know if your chain needs attention. Just a thought but may help.

jabmotorsport · « **Reply #14 on:** October 10, 2012, 21:41:19 »

Quote from: "Mitch"

Have you checked your chain tension. I found unless the chain is within the normal tolerances stated in the handbook you may notice problems in changing gear. On mine I had a similar issue once I retentioned the chain a little too tight after 1000 miles - 20mm deflection in my case caused issues on down changing . The Glee gearboxes are normally silky smooth but do let you know if your chain needs attention. Just a thought but may help.

Snap .. although my chain was a little slack just before both 1st and 2nd services

Juvecu · « **Reply #15 on:** October 10, 2012, 21:43:40 »

Quote from: "Jacko"

When this sort if thing happens just spin the clutch a little by letting the lever out to where it bites to disengage the clutch momentarily and then pull it back in and make your selection.

That is good advice, I had to figure that out to start with when I got my Wee.

Other things that have caused shifting issues for me were a low oil level, a slack chain and if the clutch doesn't disengage properly (this could simply be a clutch cable stretching while it's new.) There is also the matter of my worn out gear lever pivot, but you won't have that issue for another 50k miles or so. Currently my clutch doesn't disengage properly, I just realised it this evening. When I stopped at home I couldn't get the bike into Neutral at all and it was wanting to move forward with the clutch pulled in.

Strommer · « **Reply #16 on:** October 11, 2012, 06:56:34 »

Quote from: "Juvecu"

... When I stopped at home I couldn't get the bike into Neutral at all and it was wanting to move forward with the clutch pulled in.

Cable stretch will do that. Handlebar adjustment might sort it.

Gassoon · « **Reply #17 on:** October 11, 2012, 08:33:24 »

So far, for me on an old strom, it's always been chain adjustment when selection probs happen - even if I check the chain and it seems within my usual tolerances! I adjust 'a tad' (see technical measurement section) and Presto!

Juvecu · « **Reply #18 on:** October 11, 2012, 18:04:11 »

I doubt my cable has stretched any more than it has in the past 93k miles I had it before that. Strommer

I adjust my clutch so it' bites quite low and I use adjustable levers, the clutch lever is also adjusted very close to the handle. This means I have very little tolerance before the clutch doesn't let go fully. With the lever so being so close to the bar, it doesn't move the actuator as far as it would if the lever was adjusted further away. Every 30k or so I have to adjust the clutch actuator very slightly to be able to have things this "finely tuned" so I get the clutch the way I like it. If I get this problem I simply adjust the adjustable lever so it's further away from the bar then it solves the issue because I can move the actuator more if it's adjusted far out. So that's what I have done now, set the lever further out and it's fine again now. When I get home I simply adjust it actuator side again so I can set the lever closer to the bar again.

Meh, I hope that makes enough sense?

Strommer · « **Reply #19 on:** October 11, 2012, 19:05:42 »

Quote from: "Juvecu"

...Meh, I hope that makes enough sense?

Probably...

Actually I seem to be the only person here that has trouble with clutch weight (I have shitty knuckle joints from bad climbing technique) so I'm always after ways to make the clutch lighter during filtering.