Chain wear confussion

[bonne]

The SM1050 (Service manual for the 1050) on this site says on page 0B-19:

"count out 21 pins (20 pitches) on the chain and
measure the distance between the two points. If the
distance exceeds the service limit, the chain must be
replaced.
Drive chain 20-pitch length
Service limit: 319.4 mm (12.57 in)"

And then there is a picture that shows a caliper counting 20 pins

My chain is not the OEM but an EK 525 (extra duty) that has 40.000 km on it - shows no sign of wear and neither do the rear sprocket) and beside the initial km's I have only tightened it once (two half turns with the chain adjuster). There are plenty of more space to tighten.

If I use AI and ask how to check a 525 chain, it tells me that the service length is 329.6mm which is far from what the SM1050 says.

So I am confused. How to accurately tell if my EK chain is worn and ready to be changed?

[bonne]

40.000 km may sound like a lot especially because I ride the MC hard with a lot of load and I never clean the chain - I just lube it on the inside on a short length just before I drive and if the rollers are shiny, I give it an extra squirt oil.

[Rusty Nuts]

Hmmm, AI. As far as I can tell, AI is some of the most powerful computers in the world asking everybody else's computer questions and making a guess based on all the answers. The old GIGO acronym springs to mind. A service manual would be more trustworthy, even taking into account the different chain manufacturers.

[bonne]

Absolutely... AI can ofte be way off... that is why I ask in here.

But also about the way to measure the length... Should I measure center of pin 1 to pin 20 or the outer side of the rolers... it is as if the manual indicate pitches (and 21 pins)

[Rixington43]

The picture in the manual shows 20 pitches or 21 pins, it's just that whoever did their diagram didn't get the numbers lined up quite right above the picture.
Measure 21 pins with the first pin counted as 1 and not 0, so 20 pitches of chain within your caliper and use the service limit listed in the manual.

[bonne]

So max  319.4 mm from the center of pin 1 to the center of pin 21 on a stretched out chain?

[bonne]

I just went down and did a measurement. Chain length is in fact 319.4 mm (well, the .4 thing is not that accurate... but close).

So you can probably imagine my next question...? How serious should I take this measurement. Like: "oh oh... the chain can break any second" or I should start to think about ordering a new one while still riding the MC for another 1.000 km?

[bonne]

I am not at all able to pull the chain like this:
https://www.revzilla.com/cdn-cgi/image/onerror=redirect,format=auto,q=75,w=778/blog_content_image/image/64931/gallery/IMG_4352.JPG
as indicated on https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-determine-when-your-motorcycle-chain-and-sprockets-need-to-be-replaced

That is why I think that the chain is still OK - but I am not sure...

[Joe Rocket]

I have over 46k kms on my original chain and I cannot pull a link off the back of the rear sprocket, not even 1 mm. I have been told by a rider behind me there is a mechanical noise coming from the rear relative to bike speed so assume there could be a tighter link somewhere but I can't find it. I can't feel anything through the footpegs either.

I am in no hurry to change chain and sprockets and will maintain my regular chain maintenance. I suggest you do too bonne until a definate indicator tells you otherwise. 

[nigel s]

If you want to be really OCD, get a  "go no go " tool  like the one below drop it on and if it goes all the way down , time to replace.
I have one for my E bike, 1x 12 gearing makes chain maintenance very important for easy shifting. Plus a new chain is £30  ( easy to find the money ) a new gear set £150 ( Not so easy to find ) ,  two chains to a chainset is doable before it jumps around...so I tend to get OCD about it all

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Indicator-Checker-Motorcycle-Motorcross-Enduro/dp/B0CT5G87SG

 For my motorcycles I have used a scottoiler for decades now and chain replacement is governed by sprocket wear not chain wear for me.
 When I need new sprockets..new chain   

Ho Hum

[bonne]

I am back from an Easter trip to Amsterdam (looking at tulips) and the chain is now definitely due for at change. It started to make small "clunks" and on the last part of the journey it started to become slightly jerky... I rode a lot of miles on the autobahn, but kept it under 120 km/h

Another confusion:

 According to the service manual, the original RK chain has 116 links. On RK's webpage, it suggest a chain with 120 links. A local EK dealer that I asked suggests a chain with 112 "rolls" as he calls it.

What is the correct number of links on a Vstrom 1050?

[porter]

On my 2015 vstrom I bought a 120 link chain as recommended but it was to long, I'd to remove a few links but I can't remember how many now! 112 links is for the older model 1000.
 

[locksim]

I only have the 650 but doesn't the manual give you a figure for chain slack? Surely that's the time honoured way of adjusting the chain. If it's in spec, sprockets unworn and not near the limits of available adjustment why would there be an issue? I think perhaps you are overthinking it!

[bonne]

I am not overthinking it... The only sprocket I have checked is the rear sprocket... I could try to get access to the front and check, but I imagine that this sprocket is now worn... the MC is now for sure jerky and klonky

[Gert]

The chain wear measurement is based on the chain pitch (aka a 525 chain), not on a specific V-Strom engine capacity.
Bottom line is, if you have a 525 chain, the wear test remains the same irrespective of the model being a DL650 / DL800 / DL1000 / DL1050

[Rixington43]

Jerky and clonky is definitely time to replace as it's likely being caused by chain suck where the chain stays on one of the sprockets for longer than it should since the links aren't meshing correctly with the teeth. On mine the front certainly shows the wear before the back as well. This puts excess load on the chain and beyond this point a failure is more likely.
As for the number of links, I guess you could mark a link and count the length of the chain you currently have fitted.
Certainly all the aftermarket places seem to think 120 link for your chain and the OEM part number is 2760006G40(120) RK525SMOZ8.
* For reference the OEM part number for mine is 2760006G40(112 ) RK525SMOZ8 and it is most definitely 112 link.

[locksim]

I am not overthinking it... The only sprocket I have checked is the rear sprocket... I could try to get access to the front and check, but I imagine that this sprocket is now worn... the MC is now for sure jerky and klonky

Ah, sorry, I didn't spot your later post about the clonkiness of it! Definitely time to change then. A Scottoiler is a good investment - I used to get 25k out of an FJ1200 chain with one fitted and the bike wasn't ridden gently.

[Rixington43]

Just to add,
That part code entered into Fowlers Parts gives the following addendum;
'This genuine Suzuki chain is a supersesion by Suzuki and may be longer than the original and need links removing this is 120 links. please check before fitting rivet link '.
My suspicion is that Suzuki now supply a 120 Link chain for multiple models, as it's the maximum required, and it can then be cut down for any smaller length of 525. Supply Chains are merciless for efficiency these days.
It seems the first Gen 1000s are 112 Link, Second Gen are 116 Link and early 1050s I'm not certain but 116 seems likely from the service manual and the fact that the gearing is the same as Gen 2s.
JT suggest that the gearing on 23 onwards DL1050s and 1050DEs has been changed from 17/41 (as per the older stroms) to 17/45.
Only a Suzuki dealer would be able to confirm this but the logic of 4 more links for 4 more teeth seems sound to my monkey brain

Conclusion, if you have a chain breaker/maker to fit the new chain then the 120 will definitely be long enough to cut down to the same length as your existing chain, assuming you are keeping standard gearing

[bonne]

My bike now got a new chain kit.

I went to the shop to get it done... Mech-bloke said the problem was too much gunk from chain oil piled up at the front sprocket.

Anyway... bike no longer clonks... so I think that there was a problem with the old sprocket/chain.

But amazing if I could have been riding thousands of KMs more...

Now I am running on a DID gold chain... Exited to see how it holds compared to the EK chain. I plan to oil it with gear oil as this should mess up in another way (better in my case) than with the spray...