Author Topic: Stuck caliper pin (Read 766 times)

MilozFolly · « **on:** March 13, 2024, 19:52:05 »

I thought I'd clean the calipers whilst the front wheel was off ahead of the new pads turning up. Left side, easy. Right side - no chance. The pin that is supposed to slide out when the retaining clip is removed refuses to budge at all. I've soaked it in WD, given it a stern talking to and retired for dinner. Any tips please? I'm out of ideas.

Bugger pictured->

Rixington43 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 13, 2024, 19:59:43 »

Yep, common issue.
Heat may help at the encapsulated end, then grip and twist with all you've got.

Ianmc · « **Reply #2 on:** March 13, 2024, 20:10:01 »

How about using a big screwdriver in between the pads and prising them apart,then get a pair of good grips or heavy duty pliers to start it turning?

StromGeeza · « **Reply #3 on:** March 13, 2024, 20:22:59 »

The pads don't look 90 degrees to the pin- do the pads move relative to the pin if you prise them apart and then close them up together?

MilozFolly · « **Reply #4 on:** March 13, 2024, 20:35:24 »

Thanks for looking - the pads are free to slide up and down the stuck pin; no issue there. I just can't remove them from the caliper without the pin coming out.

Brockett · « **Reply #5 on:** March 13, 2024, 21:00:53 »

Very localised heat and long nosed "mole" type grips.
Take your time with it and before you start buy a new pin. I feel sure the one in there is corroded and even if it comes out OK it will continue to corrode and bind up in the ally caliper so it'll be stuck next time. I check mine twice a year and apply a smear of copper grease at the pin/caliper interface.
Those pins and the awful mudguard fixings are a right PITA.

Rusty Nuts · « **Reply #6 on:** March 13, 2024, 21:12:11 »

Beelzebub's bastard brainchild. £8.50 each, to add insult to injury.

purplebikeunicorn · « **Reply #7 on:** March 14, 2024, 03:36:53 »

66p each from Japan. Plus £10.58 postage. So for two is cheaper than one plus postage from F... and at 3 days estimated postage time (my last order was 4 days from ordering to on my doorstep, that was with one part out of stock), it might even get here quicker than RM...

Miloz, the front pad pins are £2.40 odd, £5 in the UK "F" parts distributor... but if you need other bits (or just want to renew stuff, like, say, the backing plates that are missing from your pads in that picture) it might be worth putting in an order. You'll need to get the part numbers from Fowlers diagrams or another site, and format them properly (59141-44B01 for example). I've never had any import duties or anything, even up to orders more than £100 odd.

https://japan.webike.net

mr_diver · « **Reply #8 on:** March 14, 2024, 15:38:12 »

I had the same issue with my wee, I ended up drilling the closed end of the caliper and driving the pin out from the other end.
It's a last resort to finding a new or used caliper.

I've had good results with ACF50 on stuck bolts and a seized drive chain in the past- just don't get it on the pads or piston seals.

Upt North · « **Reply #9 on:** March 14, 2024, 18:04:43 »

Place that end only in Plus Gas overnight...NOT the Piston...grab the exposed pin with small mole grips or stilson and gently work at it. Slowly and easy does it. A new pin will be required. Use a little lube on reassembly.
Everybody will use what they like but you don't want anything that will run onto the pads obviously. Copper grease would be favoured by many.
Upt.

Upt North · « **Reply #10 on:** March 14, 2024, 18:08:45 »

LIQUI MOLY Brake Anti-Squeal is very good in these areas or a good Moly Paste like Loctite 8012.
Good luck.
Upt.

MilozFolly · « **Reply #11 on:** March 14, 2024, 19:02:26 »

Thanks again all. New pads turned up so I've done one side and will pick up some plus gas in the morning. I know that the bike had be underused prior to my stewardship but it clearly needs some tlc in some areas also. Annoying but at least I'll know what's been done, when and how. Just hope it's all hunky dory for the start of May and NC500 time!!

vstroman · « **Reply #12 on:** March 14, 2024, 19:56:16 »

Drill the caliper and give the pin a tap with a small punch to get it out. That's what I done when I encountered the same issue a few years ago.

MilozFolly · « **Reply #13 on:** March 14, 2024, 22:19:32 »

Thanks Vstroman - that's the backup for Saturday if the plusgas doesn't get it

minkyhead · « **Reply #14 on:** March 14, 2024, 22:45:34 »

I'm guessing its not threaded and just a r clip ? clamp and a socket may be worth a shot press it out

maby put a dart or similar though the r clip hole and see iff you can work it ?

mr_diver · « **Reply #15 on:** March 14, 2024, 23:05:58 »

It's just a pin and r-clip, cheap Donkey design.

nigel s · « **Reply #16 on:** March 15, 2024, 17:08:34 »

Another tip from Kwackboy,
When you get the pin out drill the holes out slightly larger to prevent it happening again,a little bit just to clean up the hole,not whaling in with a 1/2" drill bit

.

The Doctor 46 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 15, 2024, 21:26:16 »

I fitted titanium pins in my DL650. The originals were not stuck but I could see they were starting to corrode The titanium ones were not very expensive.

MilozFolly · « **Reply #18 on:** March 16, 2024, 22:25:03 »

Last word on this one I hope. PlusGas was delayed and I really wanted to get out this morning so I sodded it off and drilled a small hole in the caliper as per Vstroman and viola out it popped with the merest twat of a large mallet. Copper grease applied, new pads installed, sanity restored. Considering either the enlarging of the hole slightly or titanium replacements as per other recommendations (thank you) but, for now, it just needs a clean (and a tyre fitting once that shows up. And an MOT in a couple of weeks:))

Rusty Nuts · « **Reply #19 on:** March 17, 2024, 08:22:50 »

So what exactly did you use this for?