Author Topic: Chain replacement kit/brake lines questions  (Read 318 times)

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Offline Ovidiu

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Chain replacement kit/brake lines questions
« on: April 14, 2019, 01:03:23 »
Hello gang,

My bike (DL650 ABS '07) needs a bit of maintenance and I plan to do it myself, hope someone can help with the questions below.

The front brake has sticky points during first press in the morning, I plan to change pads, clean calipers and replace the brake fluid. That should fix it, but being over 10 years old now, I think the manufacturer recommends the brake lines to be replaced. On cars I never did replace them if they looked good, it's a bit more important on the bike, do you think I should replace even if they look OK?

Second, I would like to replace the chain and sprocket. There are some options from DID on eBay, however it's unclear for me if the chains always come with a master link or I need to order one separately. I currently have my eye on a 'silent' kit, this one here.
Do chains come with master links?
Has anyone tried that 'silent' kit? Is it worth it?

Thank you!

Offline john storrie 69

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Re: Chain replacement kit/brake lines questions
« Reply #1 on: April 14, 2019, 14:03:17 »
Hello, Ovidiu.
On the chain I'd say go for it, just viewed your link, the firm is a very reputable one, been in business for many, I used to have a trader account with them, as for the description silent chain, I've never heard of that one before... Other than the fact that DID says it runs quietly.
As for changing brake lines etc, see earlier post from one of the other blokes, then have a think do I need to!.
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Offline Ianmc

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Re: Chain replacement kit/brake lines questions
« Reply #2 on: April 14, 2019, 17:33:46 »
The”silent chain” bit is simply both sprockets have a rubber cushion either side for the chain to run on, and yes it really does quieten the chain down.
Ian Mc.

Offline Ovidiu

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Re: Chain replacement kit/brake lines questions
« Reply #3 on: April 15, 2019, 14:44:00 »
Thank you Ian and John,

Gave M&P a call and they told me that all DID chains are delivered with a master link that need to be riveted. Finally I decided to go for the 'silent sprockets'. Don't think it will improve the overall noise on the bike since the engine is quite noisy, however those sprockets had some information about their manufacturer, 'normal' ones had no mention. Will update after I fit them.

As for the brakes I've decided to hold on replacing the hoses until I have a good look at the master cylinders/hoses/calipers.

Offline Botond

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Re: Chain replacement kit/brake lines questions
« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2019, 17:19:24 »
That’s looks pretty bad. They have managed to fit on the right way on this one.
It’s so hard to find a reliable garage....

Offline Ovidiu

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Re: Chain replacement kit/brake lines questions
« Reply #5 on: April 23, 2019, 17:13:27 »
Hello again,

I asked some questions here and I have an update for them:
Do chains come with master links?  -> Now I assume yes. The ones from DID do part of the package. (I was confused on eBay and other sites because some pictures showed the link some don't. If my question sounds stupid, I asked because some bicycle chains need a separate closing link to be purchased)
Has anyone tried that 'silent' kit? Is it worth it? -> Now I don't think so. The chain is silent when the engine is off, turn the engine on it doesn't matter, maybe on a quiet inline engine it will make a difference. However the set of sprockets do look very high quality.

I've decided not to change the hoses for now. After cleaning the caliper and replacing the pads I noticed that both bleeding valves are leaking brake fluid. One day of cleaning calipers to get to this... :icon_no:.

Offline Ovidiu

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Re: Chain replacement kit/brake lines questions
« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2019, 10:41:15 »
Hello again, apologies for digging this up.

Just in case someone else comes across the same issue with the bleeding valves. Unfortunately on my calipers there is a lot of play between the caliper and the valve thread.
The play between the parts was easy to feel on hand and significant enough to make any attempts to use vacuum to bleed the brakes, useless. In the badly drawn attachment image I've drawn a path that air takes between the screws. In my case the vacuum proved useless, but it allowed to figure stuff out.

Back to the main issue, bleeding valves. In my case the play tolerances added up to this scenario:
Bleeding the brakes with the rubber hose on top of the bleeding valves. Gravity plays it's role and pulls the rubber hose , containing liquid, down.
Pull leads to a slight rotation of the valve, allowed by the play between the threads.
Once happy with the bleeding I use the spanner to tighten the valve. But this eventually ends up leaking.
   The way this valve seals the system is with contact between 2 conical surfaces, one in the caliper, one on the screw. Big enough concentricity misalignment between the symmetry axis of the valve and the caliper hole will result in slow leaking at high pressures.
I managed to sort this by first tightening the valve using my fingers feel and then finishing off with the torque wrench at 10Nm (manual says 8.5Nm, but it depends what you have available).

Wrote this in case someone else reads this topic having the same issue, not to school anyone. If I wrote anything stupid please correct me.