Author Topic: Key and Forks  (Read 261 times)

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Offline lekyuk

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Key and Forks
« on: February 13, 2019, 21:47:10 »

Long time since a post but I need some advice please....

1) Key/Ignition issue: when putting the key if hard to get it engaged so the key turns smoothly in the ignition. I don't think I'm far off it just not moving. Bikes done 35k now, used daily and problem recently got worse. I'm trying spare key tomorrow to rule out the key which doesn't look worn or bent. If its the barrel (which I think it is), is this a DIY job or does it have to be done by Suzuki? And if its the key can you simply get another cut or do they have any chips in them for immobiliser?

2) Fork oil: I had a leak about 4 weeks ago. I did the 35mm film trick to clear any debris and its worked and I plan on doing the fork oil/seals etc myself when it slightly warmer but...I don't know how much oil I lost but I know I definitely lost some. Is there a significant risk of damage? The forks don't seem to be bottoming and I guess they fact one didn't leak helps not put the other under too much stress? LBS (Hammer and Tongs Warrington) want £180 for strip which I've not completely ruled out. Reasonable?


2012 AL2 650 V Strom

Offline bako

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Re: Key and Forks
« Reply #1 on: February 14, 2019, 01:32:26 »
Varying the fork oil volume is one way of tuning the way forks perform. Loosing a little oil out of one side will have a minimal effect when riding steady. Riding and braking hard may have a more niticable effect, depending on the amount of oil lost.
Changing the seals is fairly straight forward and there's plenty of how to videos on the web. Just take your time and lay things out as you take them off, you could even take pictures at each stage.
As for the key issue. Drown the barrel in WD40. I think the barrel needs one of those "special" tools.
Always worth searching the web for a service manual.

Offline Gert

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Re: Key and Forks
« Reply #2 on: February 14, 2019, 06:15:56 »
On the matter of the key, have you tried your spare key in the ignition? If the key that you use for your day-to-day riding, works on the seat lock and fuel cap lock, then I would say that the ignition switch may be in need of attention. However, if the spare key works in the ignition, then it could be that there is a problem with your day-to-day riding key.

Offline mr_diver

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Re: Key and Forks
« Reply #3 on: February 14, 2019, 07:07:05 »
I rotate the keys every 6 months to ensure even wear.
Sound like your ignition barrel is either worn or been damaged.

Changing the barrel is NOT A DIY THING.
The dealer will need to supply a new barrel, with keys. Suzuki imobiliser tend to be stuck to the original keys. So new ecu and lock set. £600-£1000 ecu and £400 for the lock set plus 4-5 hours labour to dismantle, install and program.

Honda do very much the same, but the ECU's I know are semi open and can take upto 5 keys. Suzuki's ones I don't think are that adaptive. Check with a dealer.
When I worked in a Suzuki/Honda dealer we changed quite a few Honda lock sets, but not a Suzuki one to my knowlage, so I'm not 100%.

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Offline UK_Vstrom650

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Re: Key and Forks
« Reply #4 on: February 14, 2019, 08:21:53 »
I'm sure I read on Stromtrooper a post about fixing the barrel. It was very labour intensive and may not be for everyone. I'd suggest adding lube to the barrel. I use WD40 which helps mine, though a dry lube such as graphite powder may give better results.

The fork seal swap is fairly straightforward though it is time consuming and you'll need to be able to remove the forks/mudguard/tyres etc. I found using electrical tape around the forks to be the best way to install the new seals.

Offline Mark Shelley

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Re: Key and Forks
« Reply #5 on: February 14, 2019, 08:48:22 »
I would use graphite rather than WD40 for the lock. Try liberally rubbing a pencil all over the key edges. Every few months I have an issue with the lock on my garage door and this always solves it!

Offline Barbel Mick

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Re: Key and Forks
« Reply #6 on: February 14, 2019, 09:10:58 »
Graphite or a 'dry' lock oil for me too. Although it does dry out, 'lubes' like WD40 will attract dust & crap to cause further problems, IMHO. Speak to a lock smith, if you have one close, and he will recommend something. I've got a little plastic bottle of graphite powder I use on my pannier locks regularly.
If you use that, be careful not to put too much in the lock, it will build up and stop the key going in!! Just a tiny sprinkle & a bit on the key. 

Offline lekyuk

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Re: Key and Forks
« Reply #7 on: February 14, 2019, 10:38:26 »
Cheers chaps....good news! Its the Key!!!! rounded at bottom edge in comparison with the unused spare which turns smoothly. I read on an american vstrom site about the barrels wearing quicker than the keys...perhaps not true.

Spoke to Suzuki and you have to buy a blank key (£40) get it cut elsewhere, take it back and get it coded (another £40). So all in all £85 ish for one key.  :icon_exclaim: unless anyone knows of a more reasonable option? I can't find any blank keys for a Vstrom on eBay.


PS: Forks I'll most likely do myself if I get time in next couple of weeks, need to manufacture something to hang the front from the garage ceiling supports. Already have heavy duty straps and a piece of scaffolding.

2012 AL2 650 V Strom

Offline Megashorts

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Re: Key and Forks
« Reply #8 on: February 14, 2019, 11:06:27 »
Try Timpsons

They say they do motorcycle keys.

Offline kingmunky

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Re: Key and Forks
« Reply #9 on: February 14, 2019, 12:35:13 »
Shamelessly stolen from the Banditforum, but from an initial glance the lock on my Wee seems to be identical  to the Bandit, so if anyone has a sticky ignition barrel here is the easy way to refurb it.

"If your ignition lock needs a serious amount of wiggle & jiggle to turn the key then it really is pish easy to refurb it. NEVER EVER spray WD40 into the key slot, this washes away the grease & causes the problem.

1. Undo the 2x screws & take off the outer cap. The inner cap should just lift off.

2. Insert the key to help pull out the cylinder.

3. Use long nose pliers to pull out the spring.

4. 3x working parts. Thoroughly degrease & clean them, I use an ultrasonic cleaner but a toothbrush & parrafin or WD40 is OK. The brass pins in the cylinder are spring loaded & need a smooth, free n easy action.

5. The flap on the inner cap usually works after a thorough degrease, if not gently pry up the casing. If that fails then pry up the 2x tabs to dissassemble & again thoroughly degrease. Don't lose that spring . . . it's tiny & hard to find  :icon_lol:

6. The raised areas inside the barrel need to be thoroughly degreased then use a needle file to deburr them especially the centre one, this is the on'off part of the lock.

Make sure that the drain hole is unblocked.

7. These brass pins should all be level when the key is inserted. If you need to push your key forward to turn it then pins 1-4 are the culprits. I use a fine wheel on a bench grinder to carefully cut them back down.

8. Do a dry run with no grease to check the action of the key. Insert the spring, then the cylinder, the inner cap, then the outer cap. You don't have to screw it down for a dry run.

If it's all OK then smear some grease inside the barrel to fill the channels between the raised areas & also on the outside of the cylinder. DO NOT totally fill the barrell with grease or force it inside the cylinder, there needs to be a clear way for water to drain out of the lock & putting your key into a cylinder full of grease is not good for your pockets when you take the key out."