What have you done with your bike today?

[Barbel Mick]

 

[Rusty Nuts]

................I sat in their cafe and read a book ( well ... some of it) about the Norman conquest.

  .. blimey .Can I ask what work was done ..?

Well, the French king William came over here, shot our king in the eye, conkered the English and then made a tapestry about the whole affair.

[Brockett]

Replace - Engine oil 10W-60, filter and 'O' ring,  drain screw washer
Inspect / adjust valve clearances, check air filter box drain plug, Adjust clutch free play.
Use scan tool to look for faults and then look at other things.
Service book shows allow 80 minutes.

[Barbel Mick]

Rusty, I wish you'd been my history teacher, I could have been home that much earlier! 

[Brockett]

The tapestry took ages because folk kept suggesting things to be included. First recorded case of Thread Jacking.

[Brockett]

Was that the same  "Willam the conkerer" the boy who battered his mates with a horse chestnut seed on a length of string?

[kwackboy]

About right for an Italian bike , a valve clearance check and adjustment at that mileage 

[endintears]

You've helped me make my mind up Brockett.

With prices like that and the fact that living in the Royal Forest of the Peak where the Chapel-en-le-Frith was built gives me a basic grasp of the history of the Norman conquest already.

I will now definitely be doing the big 18000 mile service on the KTM myself.

[Brockett]

    Yaaaaaaaaay
Spannering is the fun you can have when you're not riding the bike

[endintears]

Wheeled them out and lined them up while I had a clean up in the garage.

[TLPower]

@Endintears, I went a little over the top with my 18,000 service insofar as I changed all the fuel pump filters. I was swayed by them 'merican's saying they blocked up.

Mine has just flashed up a reminder for 12 months rather than mileage, the oil has only done 4-5 thousand. Without wishing to start an oil thread I shall be replacing it with https://www.westwayoils.co.uk/products/10w50-4t-fully-synthetic-motorcycle-oil-1?variant=35572648607910 .

I would have used Smith&Allan but they don't list a 10/50.

Mine felt sprightlier after the new plugs at the big service.

[2112]

Engine oil 10W-60

I remember from previous Guzzi's that is piggin' expensive oil & not very common.

[endintears]

@TL
My decision to make at the service is whether to bother doing a unifilter upgrade to the airbox even if it's just the foam gasket.
I did have a good look in there when I first got it so will inspect again for any signs of dust ingress.
This year was probably as dry/dusty as the UK is liable to get whilst I own the bike...

[TLPower]

I just fitted the gasket and greased the edges of the filter to ensure a good seal to the airbox. Mine has been spotless everytime.

[endintears]

Gasket seems not too dear 
But I've got the Mk1 airbox

[TLPower]

The parts required for the later airbox.
Lower filter case: 60306001100 euro 25.68
Screws: 0017060305 euro 1.47
Air filter frame:60306016100 euro 10.07
O-rings: 0770066025 euro 3.53

Taken from a 2014 KTM forum post.

Edit lower air filter housing is now superseded https://www.trevorpopemotorcycles.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=40990

[endintears]

Thanks for the airbox numbers TL
Decisions decisions... buy the bits? Second hand airbox of Ebay? foam filter from Unifilter in original airbox or am I over thinking it all (other than the gasket) for a bike having regular filter changes in a normally damp Britain.
Will do a bit more Googling.
Thanks again for the info .

[TLPower]

I've changed my air filter twice in the four years and 18k I've had the bike. A simple "tap out" and blow through would probably suffice but for the price and faff to access the filter I'd rather change it. The filter seems to have more bugs than be caked in dust, the area of the box before the filter is grubby rather than really dusty.

I'm certain you could come up with a solution to hold the filter in place and seal the edges as good if not better than KTM's effort.

[Brockett]

My son's 125 Varadero. Last week I changed the oil and filter and noticed the rear brake pads were thin. I ordered some EBC pads for Fleabay yesterday he came  to fit them. Things did not go well.
The pads were so worn and the piston so far out it was filthy and an old toothbrush just wouldn't do. So off with the caliper.
Ah! first remove the rear wheel.
Because Honda in their wisdom fix the caliper with a hex head fixing from the inside and the wheel gets in the way.
Got it all cleaned up nicely and what looked like corrosion was just goo that was stuck on. Sprayed with WD40 and rubbed with rags for while and then rinsed with brake cleaner and time to put it back together.
The pads just wouldn't fit with the pad spring in place. I struggled with it for over an hour. Compared with the old pads and they look OK.
In the end we left the spring out. The wheel was another tricky job as the spacers fell out and made a dash for freedom everytime the wheel was offered up. What is needed is five pairs of hands. One for to hold each side spacer in place, one to hold the brake caliper in place,  another to tease the disc in between the pads and the fith to lift the wheel in place as the left side spacer checker inserts the axle.
I bought a replacement pad holding pin and it came with a screw in plug to keep the fixing clean and dry but without the small seal/ grommet that seals the other end. So I reused the old one.  The Haynes manual says it's possible to change the pads with the caliper in situ but fails to show a clear picture of the spring orientation so I am not sure we were doing that right. Whatever happened to exploded diagrams????  The  hook end of the new pad was too tight for the pivot point and needed easing with a file.  Another thirty minute job that took us five hours. He's back next week so we can change the front pads the spark plugs and the air cleaner.
 

[The Doctor 46]

Good luck with the above, it will probably take a month.