Clutch Cable

[03guyjam]

Hello,

Has anyone changed the clutch cable of the wee themselves? Is it clipped in down the chassis or just put through loop holes?

The garages said its around 30mins labour so an hour should be enough for a DIY job

Any pointers to think about when changing it?

Also shout names/links to the best clutch cable I should go for or will the OEM be good enough?

Cheers

Its a Wee L0X btw

[Strommer]

I did mine earlier in the year.

It just kind of goes down and around the left hand side.  It's not easy, but I managed it without taking off more than the left boomerang.

They don't require any lube and you'll want to ride with a pair of pliers to take up the slack (at the handlebars) on the first couple of rides.  A clutch readjustment the following weekend is a good idea if there is lots of stretch.

I think I used Moly grease for the clutch bits and amazingly didn't lose any ball bearings.  The trickiest part is cleaning out the ball bearings - don't do this unless you really have to (I had grit in mine).

So:

-Buy a good pre-stretched cable
-Expect to take up stretch in the first hour of riding (you do this at the handlebars)
-Lube with moly paste
-Do manual spec. clutch adjustment after fitting and maybe a week later if you get lots of slack
-Do the work in a clean area as dropped ball bearings aren't fun

[greywolf]

Tape the top of the new cable to the bottom of the old one. Pull the old cable and push the new one, wiggling as required, to get the new one in position. The cable is PTFE lined so do not lubricate it. Do grease the ends though.

[Strommer]

Must say 8k is VERY early to replace the cable.  I did mine at 25k and THAT is considered early...to be honest the old one looked fine once I had it out.

What makes you think it needs replacing?  Stickiness is usually grit in the mech. at the bottom.  Poor shifting means you just need to do a manual spec. adjustment at the bottom end.

[03guyjam]

The bikes done 18,000 as the first 9000 were by the instructor at street bike training school, a lot of stop start, and 'pad' work.

N both adjustments are at the end (top and bottom)

Would it be best to pay the £25 n get a workshop to do it? As they'll clean the ball bearing properly?

Cheers

[Strommer]

For £25 yes.

[Jacko]

Where is the ball bearing in the clutch cable replacement?

[Strommer]

Where is the ball bearing in the clutch cable replacement?

Think of hell, and imagine there's a bad place within it... it's just about there....

In fact it's a ball race, but the race is the problem as you need to seat the bearings in this tubular race, then insert the mech into the centre without dislodging the bearings hanging on the sides.  You simply won't manage it first time and without dropping a bearing or two.  Oh, and it can go into two ways but only one way is correct.  You insert and then twist as the bearings sit in grooves that curve around the mech....

My tip is to take pics as you undo it and add grease to the race to keep the bearings stuck to the side.  If you can get away with not dismantling it do.

You might get away with cable tying the thing together, then soaking in paraffin/white spirit etc, maybe dunk it in a jar of spirit a few times to wash it out, then grease it to within an inch of its life.

[Jacko]

This is a clutch cable we're on about, right? I've never replaced a clutch cable on anything where what you describe is part of the job.. Clutch cables just have a nipple at both ends and a recess for them at the operating lever and actuating arm at either end of the cable.. What sort of devil spawn cable system have Suzuki used on the new Vstrom to have to mess around with bearings?

[Strommer]

... The trickiest part is cleaning out the ball bearings - don't do this unless you really have to (I had grit in mine)....

If it doesn't feel gritty then you can probably get away without doing this part.  It's not necessary just to change the cable.  

Be aware of how to do it though as it's easy to undo the adjustment nut too far and it all falls out - then you have no choice.

[TravellingStrom]

Why exactly are you replacing the clutch cable in the first place, this is to the OP?

I mean I have never replaced one and don't see the need unless its frayed or crimped in some way

I have replaced clutch levers due to slop and a destroyed clutch plate pack but never a cable.

I am confused?  Considering I am doing on average 10,000km a month which I think is a lot higher than most with a bucket load of clutch uses, you would think mind would be worn out more than yours but mine is fine

I would be querying the mechanics who advised this about the true reasons

That said if is an easy job and you DON'T have to play with grease and ball bearings to do this job

Cheers from Thailand

[03guyjam]

Why exactly are you replacing the clutch cable in the first place, this is to the OP?

The reason for changing the clutch cable is there is no adjustments on either the bars, or bottom of clutch cable (so cable is fully stretched) Also I now have around an inch of clutch lever play before I begin to feel the clutch between my fingers.

I think there is only 100 miles ish left of cable before I won't be able to pull the clutch as the cable won't be tight enough.

The garage advised me to replace around 1000miles ago and I thought id use it until its end of life and that is pretty much now. The garage is a very trust worthy garage.


Also, for the ball bearings part the clutch isn't stiff at all and I've rang numerous garages and they said they don't touch the ball bearings unless there doing work on the clutch. They said if the cable needs replacing they will change the cable unless otherwise asked to do more work.

[Juvecu]

Let me try to clarify the ball bearing thing: the clutch actuator assembly uses loose ball bearings inside the actuator assembly itself. You do NOT need to take the actuator apart if you replace the clutch cable, you will just remove the whole actuator assembly, being careful to not let it come apart, so you can easily replace the clutch cable. In fact, you could probably replace the cable without removing the actuator assembly at all.

My bike is almost on 94k miles, my clutch cable, and clutch plates for that matter, are still the originals and there is no need to replace either yet.  The adjuster screws either side of the cable is for adjusting cable slack, it is not for adjusting where the clutch bites/releases, that kind of adjustment is done on the actuator itself. The way you are describing it I am thinking your clutch actuator needs to be adjusted properly, an relatively easy <10 minutes job, and that it's not a cable problem at all.

Go to the Oily Rag --> General section, find the thread that has the manuals and download the service maual for the DL650A. The manual is in PDF format, go to section 2-17 of the manual (page 39 of the PDF.) It has the information on how to adjust the clutch properly, follow that, problems sorted

[03guyjam]

The way you are describing it I am thinking your clutch actuator needs to be adjusted properly, an relatively easy <10 minutes job, and that it's not a cable problem at all.

Both adjustments have been made they were done by the garage at the last service. They said at the last service that the cable has no adjustment left on the cable at all and a new cable is needed. They've adjusted it all correctly and I've checked, there is no way it can be adjusted.

[Juvecu]

K, at least you know how to change the cable then

[greywolf]

Somebody else said does not make it true. A cable stretching beyond its adjustment range is very unlikely.

[mr_diver]

mines getting close to the end of adjustment- so I'll be changing it soon.
(know this as fact- the dealers aren't allowed to touch my bike!)

it should be easy enough to change, but I'll take pics when I do it. it'll be a while yet.