Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Club DL250, DL650, DL1000 & DL1050
V-Strom specific discussion => V-Strom specific discussion => Topic started by: Valzdl650 on December 04, 2023, 10:11:56
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Doing my valve clearance and removing radiator I’m having trouble disconnecting the yellow and green plugs anyone give me a steer?
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Yellow and green
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There's a little 'tag' on them that requires pressing to release the two parts.
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Yh really tough to get them loose I will keep at it !! Thanks
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As Mick says, push on the tabs marked on your original photo, they can be a bit tight so push the plug firmly back together before you press the tab and then pull apart.
Removing the tethered half from the radiator shroud can also be pretty tough, I put my hand up the back of the shroud and squeezed the barbs together which I found easier but just be carefull not to bend any rad fins with your knuckles. I've seen videos of people just pulling those connectors out but I found that a bit savage.
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They can be tight. Just make sure that you're pulling the two parts away square to each other, any slight twist will make it more difficult.
When you're putting it back together I'd advise filling the contacts area with dielectric grease to stop any water ingress & corrosion.
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Thanks Mick , Yh there really tough been at it now for 20 mins !!
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So for future reference all of them slide out of the male female connection relatively easily but for the green and yellow pop them out from the back super easy
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That was my experience yes, although mine all came aprt fairly easily.
I gave all of them a liberal greasing inside and out (Dielectric grease preferably) when I put them back together. That black connector on the right of your photo is particularly succeptible to water ingress since it's not a waterproof connector and corrosion is a common issue.
I did all of them since I'm paranoid.
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I tend to push the tab down with a small electricians screwdriver held between my thumb and fore finger while first pushing then pulling them apart.Never pull on the wires just the body of the plug.
Plus one on the dielectric grease.
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Yes so after popping out the green and yellow I realised that I have to pop them all out to get it off completely lol so next time whatvi will do is firstly pop them all out then go threw undoing the male female connections ! But she’s off now and yes I will get the Freese for connections thanks Mick
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I'd pack the back of the connectors (cable entries) too with dielectric grease, the cables themselves suffer from corrosion back up within the the insulation (not just the mating connections) it all adds to increased electrical resistance which leads to failure of these connectors.
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Good point Russ. I did that with mine .... just forgot to mention it above!! :shy:
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https://youtu.be/0TV4-2pMsjU?si=C3OnvagBvAueqzBU
So my mind are facing downwards when R is lined up
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And when you have it all buttoned up after the valve check ,any exterior connectors, battery tender/ accessory sockets etc will benefit from a little TLC too.
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should you be using the F mark? first. anti clockwise?
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F is for front I’m doing the rear forst
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the manual says turn crank alternator bolt anti clockwise try that?
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Yes nig you was right !! Yeah happy days all witching tolerance all sittin banging the middle 0.15 and 0.13 on intake and 0.25 0.25 on ex happy days check front now 😵💫
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Result :thumb:
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70000 km and no shim change I spoke to the previous owner and he said he never checked the valves once and he was the owner from new ! Lowest intake was 0.13 and lowest ex was 0.23 so all within tolerance ! What a bike
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Glad for you, :lala:
and me ,
If mine works out the same I will be more than happy :thumb:
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To be fair it’s actually really straight forward , it’s bloody cold outside in the garage thou think u need to get a heater in there, next I will job I’ll put rad back on then I will strip down the breaks for a full de gunge, doubt it’s ever been done and then a new chainand sprockets should keep me busy for the rest of December
Ä
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Got it all back together and started up no issues, I bought a Lambada plug and connector to cancel out my FI light for oxygen sensor but still it comes on ? 😞
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Hi valdzl650,
I know little about the electrics,but am a little confused by your terms.
Are you talking about the sensor in the exhaust?
Did you get a code?
Are you meaning you got into the diagnostic system?
A bit more info may help others on the site who know more sort it out for you :thumb:
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Thanks for the reply, so basically when I was changing the clutch I accidentally caught one strand of the wiring for the o2 sensor in the casing when putting the clutch back together 😡 so my FI light was on C44 I then bought from eBay the plug and the little connector so as to cancel out the o2sensor but my light still
Comes on and still
With C44
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This was where it caught the wire,and here was the switch I bought
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.
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If it is just a cut wire and the sensor is still OK could you repair the wire?
Just spitballing here,not had my 650 long enough to have anything go wrong.
Is the code a stored one, being shown by being in diagnostic mode,or an active one.
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Yes after I bought the switch , when u was taking the o2 sensor out is when I saw the wire I thought that maybe the o2 sensor was damaged because I had a front cylinder spark plug issue , basically the previous owner hadn’t tightened it because it’s a bit of a pain to reach it’s tucked behind the radiator , so first day riding in rain bike stopped working, I done a whole load of trouble shooting and I thought maybe by keep trying to start it the unburned fuel had damaged it, but when I saw the wire I thought yes it’s OK I can just fix the wire, gave it a good clean and that’s my next job , however the little switch I bought to cancel
Out the FI light is not working because soon as I hit the motorway and get the revs up it turns the light on :/
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The light isn’t on when I turn the bike on and if I was to drive really sensitively then it probably wouldn’t come on , however soon as I hit the auto Bahn , revs up and switch from 4-5 is usually when it come on or if I drop down in to 4 and pull the throttle back there’s somewhere around that point and the light flicks back in , I was driving with a safety clip in so my dealer mode was activated, then it would tell me my codes as it comes on and is the C44
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Found this ,might help?
https://www.stromtrooper.com/threads/bad-02-sensor.293753/#post-3536465
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Thanks mate , yes I think I’m just going to repair the wire of the o2 sensor it’s in good nick apart from the wire the o2 sensor I bought is obv pants and don’t work 😢
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Yerty :thumb: