Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Club DL250, DL650, DL1000 & DL1050
V-Strom specific discussion => V-Strom specific discussion => Topic started by: Dannyb on November 07, 2020, 10:53:07
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hi blokes I've got a problem I can't get bike to start it will turn over but won't fire don't get fuel pump prime either I've tested the side stand clutch an kill switch all seem to be fine the bike. I have tried the dealer mood but don't have the f1 light up on dash just the ABS TC natural as normal but have the oil light on and a small bar above the gear. also the temperature is full. I've tried everything I can thing off any one help out cheers
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:welcome2: my money would be on the tip over or tilt switch.
I have no idea if they are still fitted but I would they are, find the switch and by-pass to see if the pump runs.
Edit check the kill switch first.
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good man thank u will go try find it an see how that works out.
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The word 'chec' is normally on if the kill switch is in the off position.
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You say “the temperature is full”,if it is showing a very high temperature surely that would bring the ”chec” indicator on and stop it from starting ? Is the temperature switch wiring OK ?
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What concerns me is the temp gauge .. ?
Check all the safety cut off circuits again along with all the fuses.
Good luck .. :thumb:
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CHEC is showing on the display in the photo, I didn't think the 'bike would turn over if that was showing?
If there was a fault on the coolant temperature wouldn't that show an F1 and a C15 in dealer mode? :shrug:
C15 Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (ECTS)
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The bike has stopped its self from starting because of the high temp reading check the temp sender and wiring try disconnecting the battery for 30mins to see if it resets.my guess would be the temp sender :topic_closed:
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On the Glee, when CHEC is showing the temperature gauge also shows as full. That's normal and disappears when CHEC is removed e.g. the kill switch is put in the run position.
How did you check the kill, clutch and side stand switches? Did it happen when you tried it for the first time that day I.e. cold engine?
I'd also check the battery - terminals tight/fully charged.
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the bike was out last weekend no problems has sat from then till this morning an all this started. checked the 3 switches with multi meter. yea I pushed the bike out side went to start it to go a run but wouldn't start just cranked over. battery is fine only few weeks old an showing 12.4 volts.
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anyone tell me were to find the sensor for the engine temperature please
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CHEC usually means the kill switch is off as has been said. Mine wouldn't start one day and it was the earth lead at the engine but I can't remember what it said on the clocks, just wouldn't turn over. There's a recall for that. Your only 5 miles from me so if you need to check another similar bike get in touch.
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If CHEC is showing on my 'bike (kill switch thrown or side stand down and in gear) it won't turn over (crank).
I'm not sure 12.4 resting volts showing on the battery is good enough? I thought it should be 12.6 or higher, the fact it is only a few weeks old doesn't mean it's good.
Try putting it on charge overnight and try starting it. You can also leave the volt meter connected to the battery when you turn it over and see what the voltage drops to, I don't think it should go below 10 volts?
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Recently my Glee would turn over but not start. Summer time new battery showed just under 12v. I charged it for 45mins and it started OK then. I then took it for a good hour+ run. It hadn't been started before that incident for over three weeks.
I tried it yesterday and it started normally. :)
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“anyone tell me were to find the sensor for the engine temperature please”
It’s on the thermostat housing between the cylinders.
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I've just looked at my Mk2 650 and when CHEC is on the screen the temp gauge has all the bars showing as stated earlier by UK_Vstrom650. I'm not sure that the fault has anything to do with the temperature sensor.
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Have a look at this.............
https://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=35576.msg357322#msg357322
Plus go to the home page and search for CHEC, there are quite a few threads that might be of help.
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Put it in dealer mode.
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still no luck have the bike in bits now but can't find a fault. tried the dealer mode doesn't seem to do anything either.
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You are not getting any codes in dealer mode?
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Do you have a meter ? If so, checked the battery with the ignition off then on, there should only be a couple of volts different.
If the voltage drops to much the ECU might be stopping you from starting the bike .
Triumph have this trickery also .
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just had a look at mine 16 plate it does the same when kill switch is on blow the kill switch out with compressed air make sure there is no water in it. try another kill switch if you can :smirk:
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no no codes just keeps reading check nothing else.
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Do these models still have the clutch switch? they were always a source of frustration before? 2 wires going to a switch behind the clutch switch gear...
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Yes its still there. Worth a look, and the side stand switch also, I just jumped them with a bit or wire the time I had the no starting issue, wasn't them.
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The workshop manual says CHEC is displayed when the instrument panel doesn't receive a signal from the ECM for more than 5 seconds. There is no fault code associated with this. It suggests kill switch, sidestand switch, ignition fuse or the wiring connecting them. You get an "FI" 3 seconds after turning the ignition on.
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After Megashorts above below I had a search through the forum for a similar problem......... a CHEC can only be caused by the side stand switch, the kill switch OR the ignition fuse OR the ECM signal not getting to the display because the system voltage is low,
see post #5 here.......https://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=21973.msg208083#msg208083
and post #8 here.........https://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=30462.msg301358#msg301358
both posts from greywolf (RIP) a man who knew his way around a V-Strom.
Because you have CHEC showing, normally the 'bike wouldn't turn over but if the above was the problem then it would turn over but not enough voltage to the ignition system.
I still think it's a voltage problem, either the battery itself or a wiring/corrosion problem in the ignition circuit.
That's if I'm reading it all correctly. :shrug:
Edit...also mentioned by kwackboy above.
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:text-goodpost: Mick. It's amazing how many weird effects a duff battery can cause. Test it under load :thumb:
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To rule it all out, personally I'd short out the side stand switch, kill switch etc too. See if you can do the lot together. You'll know if you get it right as the fuel pump will run its prime cycle.
If you don't get the prime cycle, it won't start anyway as the fuel pump isn't going to run with CHEC on the screen.
So ignore starting it, you need to get it to the point where you get the fuel pump prime cycle. That should happen as soon as the safety circuit is completed. The prime cycle will happen generally speaking even with quite a low battery. That's always a good sign of a low battery as the pump will sound wrong.
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no can't get any codes. changed battery too checked fuses still nothing
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Just a thought, maybe your bike missed the earth lead recall. Connect a jumper cable, if you have one to the negative battery terminal and other end onto the frame somewhere, tank support a good place. This is what I did when mine went dead a few years ago.
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The sidestand switch doesn't carry the power to the ECM, it goes through a relay. If the relay is faulty bridging the switch isn't going to make it work. Can you tell if there is power at the ignition fuse? It goes from there through the sidestand relay, through the kill switch and then to the ECM.