Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Club DL250, DL650, DL1000 & DL1050
V-Strom specific discussion => V-Strom specific discussion => Topic started by: TimB on June 26, 2020, 07:36:46
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Having looked through the various options to try and improve the snatchy throttle response at lower rpm, I bit the bullet and fitted a booster plug.
https://www.boosterplug.com/shop/boosterplug-Suzuki-dl-688p.html (https://www.boosterplug.com/shop/boosterplug-Suzuki-dl-688p.html)
and I must say for the money I am impressed, although it hasn't completely removed the issue it has provided a significant improvement, there is still a little hesitation when closing the throttle but it is smooth a butter when opening it back up and that's when you need it most
A Worth while upgrade for £132 , pleased enough with my purchase not to consider other options, good bang for the buck.
TimB
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Try the G2 throttle tamer in conjunction with the booster plug, worked well for me on my 14 with the x-tre.
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Hi Tim
Maybe you could come back an post your findings regarding any changes to the fuel economy, I'm quite curious to know as I can achieve 60-62 mpg even with a pillion on my 1000XT. I too also acknowledge the off throttle reaction in 2nd and 3rd is too abrupt. However, haven't an issue with applying throttle :shrug:
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Can't say I have noticed any change in fuel consumption, but I don't monitor it that closely - the dash thingy still says the average is 52 to the gallon, which I am very happy with, but the engine has only done 1500 miles and is only just starting to loosen up properly so that might improve at little bit.
The booster plug is not the "magic" fix that some of the marketing would suggest but has been a good value worthwhile improvement for me
TimB
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I fitted one to a 08 Blade a few years ago, most of the stock fuelling was great bar the initial bit as above, and it did help. I think they work by momentarily enriching the air/fuel ratio when opening the throttle before the bikes closed loop system then knocks it back to standard. The mpg stayed the same as far as one could tell.
A Power Commander would no doubt be better, but worse for the bank balance.
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Interesting, I tried this on my '15 AL4 and the fuel economy dropped considerably :dl_smiley_banghead:.
I ended up returning the plug for a refund.
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I’m also trying to improve the abrupt snatchy throttle at low’ish RPM’s, let’s assume the throttle bodies are balanced and the TPS is bang on.
Would a Power Commander V 5 solve this issue completely - I accept it’s a V Twin and it will have certain engine characteristics, but the abrupt shut off of fuel on the over run is really aggressive any feedback welcome.
Apologies for jumping in on your thread Tim B, but I think we’re both looking for the same thing, your comments re: the booster plug are interesting I think this retards / advances the ignition only ......???
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Have you actually checked the TPS rpm setting / at which rpm is the bar on the -C00 display moving to the upper position or are you assuming that the TPS was correctly adjusted from the dealer? The 1st gen V-Stroms had a few posts on TPS out of adjustment related problems vs low speed throttle response. These same probles moved over to the 2nd gen V-Stroms, so why not deduce that it would appliy to all generations V-Strom.
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Gert that’s a fair point you’ve raised:
I found this explanation on the Stromtrooper site but haven’t followed up on it not knowing if it’s valid or even works on the facelift gen 3 1000’s. What do you reckon?
“I've recently done this procedure on a '16 GSX-S1000, my '14 Vstrom1000. a '07 GSXR-750, and a '14 Vstrom650.
Check your Throttle Position Sensor setting.
This is REAL simple and quick and will cost you nothing to check. Adjust your throttle cable slack to 1/8" rotational free play at the grip.
1) Remove the seat and locate the white 6-pin Dealer Mode Connector
2) Remove the Dealer mode Connector cap and set aside
3) Dealer Mode Connector terminal end facing you with the cap latch on top, jumper the white/red and black/white wire terminals at the right side of the connector together with an unbent small paper clip. These terminals are stacked one over the other.
4) Turn ignition switch to the "ON" position, engine off
5) Look at your trip odometer in your gauge cluster--it will have switched from tripmeter to code reader. If there is no diagnostic trouble code you will see "C00". If your TPS adjustment is correct, you will see a hyphen just to the left of the "C", as in "-C" On the Vstrom the hyphen may be inline with the top of the "C". If the hyphen is either at the bottom of the "C:, or above the "C", the TPS needs adjustment.
My friend's Vstrom 650 was right on the money.
My Vstrom1000 was at the bottom of the C but had no drivability issues. I raised the tank, and using a T25 Tamperproof Torx bit, 1/4" drive ratchet and locking 6" extension, adjusted my TPS to spec--the top of the "C".
It ran great before, but is outstanding now. Smoother cold running, better throttle response, more power everywhere.
The GSX-R750 was at the bottom of the C. Same story, the owner reports smoother on-off-n throttle transitions, smoother and quicker response.
The real deal was a friend's GSX-S1000. For a year and a half he complained of buck on off-on throttle transitions, hesitations during low-speed maneuvers. He installed a G2 Throttle Tamer, only slightly better. He had his ECU reprogrammed 3 times, $$$$, and still didn't run right. He seriously considered selling the bike.
I did the TPS check--and it was waaay off, at the bottom. I adjusted the TPS...AND FIXED Totally different bike now and he is thrilled.
I did purchase the Suzuki Tool to do this job, makes it quicker and easier. Part # 09930-82720, was $20 shipped. But a paper clip will do.
The lesson here is twofold: Never assume the factory settings are correct, and don't do performance mods trying to correct drivability issues until you make sure the specified settings are right.“
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TPS can't be adjusted using the procedure above on Euro 4 bikes, 2017 and later.
I know, I've tried. The "-" doesn't appear next to the C00 on the dash.
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Thanks for the tip RoadWarrior :thumb:
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Thanks RoadWarrior, that's news to me. Perhaps someone with a service manual for the L7 - L9 is willing to share the TPS adjustment process? It's a pity that there is no relevant service manual available in the downloads section yet.
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I’ve got one on order may take a short while to arrive (ordered from Ireland), I’ll let you know if somebody doesn’t come up with an answer
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An x-tre does away with the abrupt fuel cut on the 2014 Veek but I'm not sure if you can fit it to the later 17 on face lifted model. I'd not ride my 14 without it.
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Further to my last post Euro 4 bikes are OBDII compliant which means it's all self learning to a
Point.
Also with the use of an adaptor lead any codes stored can be read and cleared with the use of a conventional scantool, also live data should available too.
Downside is that any faults once rectified will require three successful driving cycles for the MIL to extinguish or be cleared with a scantool.
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I rang up my local’ish Suzuki dealer basically said it’s a characteristic of the engine, you can rectify with aftermarket products / dyno’s etc but obviously not cheap.
Whilst a power commander would probably make a big difference I can’t justify the expense at the moment, might try the TRE route. I’ve booked my bike in for a TPS check an MOT, and a purge of the ABS system (you can’t safely refresh the brake fluid in this unit apparently). Oh and test ride on the new 1050 XT which has got even more electronics :icon_exclaim: lol
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An x-tre does away with the abrupt fuel cut on the 2014 Veek but I'm not sure if you can fit it to the later 17 on face lifted model. I'd not ride my 14 without it.
I had X-TRE removed from my '14 DL1000 and fitted to my '18 DL1000. It was a bit hit and miss at the time because there were no instructions on X-TRE website for my model about which wire is to be cut on the ECU. But we sorted it at the dealer back then. I think X-TRE website has correct instructions for '18 model now.
And yes, it's the same model for both bikes and it does make the ride smoother on my '18 model.
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...you can’t safely refresh the brake fluid in this unit apparently...
Yes you can. I've already changed brake and clutch fluid myself with no issues at all. You just have to be careful to prevent any air entering the system. If you know how to do it it'll be an easy and quick job.
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Bosnjo, probably easier to read my previous thread but in a nutshell you can’t safely change the brake fluid held in the ABS unit, it just sits in there eventually corroding it. Changing the fluid in the master cylinders won’t shift it I’m afraid. Anyway, if I’ve copied the link correctly it’s all in there.
https://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=38445.msg393252#msg393252
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There's a difference between you can't safely change it, and you can't flush the old fluid out of the ABS pump.
Can't do it safely says that your brakes will be inoperable afterwards, which is not the case with your thread: that's about the ABS unit potentially failing some years later because you didn't trigger it during changes.
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Can somebody tell me how to trigger the ABS unit when changing the brake fluid please.
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You can only do this by riding the bike and applying the brakes hard enough to trigger the ABS, both front and back - various methods of doing this but all carry an element of uncertainty / safety issues.
A dealer can hook the bike up to an SDS machine and cycle the pump electronically they’re charging me about 50 quid for the privilege
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Thanks RoadWarrior, that's news to me. Perhaps someone with a service manual for the L7 - L9 is willing to share the TPS adjustment process? It's a pity that there is no relevant service manual available in the downloads section yet.
TPS adjustment Euro 4 bikes
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Thanks for sharing.