Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Club DL250, DL650, DL1000 & DL1050
V-Strom specific discussion => V-Strom specific discussion => Topic started by: cabra on September 05, 2012, 15:11:09
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Has anyone had any experience of "upgrading" the headlight bulbs? - Discolouring the lenses?? - Melting the holders??? I have heard all the war stories but always via "a mates sisters boyfriends brother" :groan: You know the sort of thing. Anyhow, first hand experience would be greatly appreciated. :ty:
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Halogen bulbs claiming more light, like 100/90 while only using 60/55, only change the pattern by focusing more centrally and losing peripheral power. Such a change causes them to burn out early too. Actual 100/90 outputs are illegal and draw attention from the police. They also generate more heat and are dangerous to the wiring. Adding headlight relays gets more power to the stock lights, makes them noticeably brighter, and saves the stock wiring from all too common long term problems.
The best way to get a lot more light out of the stock housings is to change to 35W HID Bi-Xenon lamps. 4300K kits put out the most light. It's a white light that scatters less in fog than the higher colour temperature blue lights. HIDs run cooler, have a steady output from 9V-16V and only draw 40-44W. More energy goes to light than heat. HIDs are not street legal but that's rarely a real problem. V-Strom headlight housings do a good job of controlling HID lamps. HIDs also last longer.
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A few 'strommers have seen my HIDs and will probably agree with Greywolf :)
I certainly do!
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A few 'strommers have seen my HIDs and will probably agree with Greywolf :)
I certainly do!
Hi mate .. interested in this do you have a link to where we could purchase some ??? :)
Many thanks
Josh
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High output bulbs used to be illegal in the UK, but not any more. HID lamp light output verses wattage made the law worthless as the values used did not relate to modern lamp outputs. The law is know that they must not dazzle oncoming traffic.
100/90 bulbs should in theory give a better light, but in practice may not do as the increased current they draw can result in more volt drop in the wiring.
In addition the additional current draw may stress the wiring and switchgear, resulting in their early failure.
If you are intent in fitting these bulb then you must fit relays for both main and dip beam with heavy duty cables to stop volt drop.
A better way to go is to fit HID lamps, but be aware that in the UK most kits do not conform to EU and UK construction and use regulations, in part because the reflectors are not designed for them.
For more info on HID lamp use in the UK see
http://www.phoenixautobulbs.co.uk/tp/hi ... tion-2012/ (http://www.phoenixautobulbs.co.uk/tp/hid-kits-new-legislation-2012/)
The following article appears to indicate that the use of retrofitted HID kits is ilegal in the USA as well, but I am not familiar with the intricacy of the USA legal process or laws.
http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaUS ... proved.jsp (http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaUSA/WebSite/Channels/Drivers/Tested_and_Approved.jsp)
Just my ideas
Keith C
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HIDs using the stock reflectors are not street legal in the USA either. Neither were halogen headlights that are commonly used today back when I used them in the 1970s when only sealed beams were legal. I also wear earplugs in states where they are not legal.
I make sure my headlights are not bothering other people, otherwise, I would not use them. Besides not wanting to dazzle people aiming two tons of metal in my direction, It's just a nasty thing to do. Many car and motorcycle headlights will dazzle oncoming drivers if fitted with HID bulbs but the Stroms handle them well when properly aimed. I have never had anyone flash their high beams at me.
I will protect my hearing and I can hear important sound like sirens better with earplugs attenuating the wind noise. It's a stupid law and my hearing and safety along with the safety of others around me is more important.
So it looks like MOT inspections will look for HID installations and it won't be a good idea in the UK.
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Sorry, kind of broken link: http://www.vvme.com/popup-product-info? ... cts_id=128 (http://www.vvme.com/popup-product-info?cPath=44_46_35&products_id=128)
These work with the strom reflectors really well (I aim them a touch low just to be sure, and to save me adjusting them too often when I have a pillion :P )
Another bonus is that they're easy to convert back to halogen for the MOT - remove the HID 'bulbs', refit the halogens, and plug the sockets back into the halogens. Simples!
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As long as the ballasts are removed, hidden or not a factor, that can work. I have the VVME kit too. It's probably better to crank up the rear preload when carrying extra weight in back.
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Another bonus is that they're easy to convert back to halogen for the MOT - remove the HID 'bulbs', refit the halogens, and plug the sockets back into the halogens. Simples!
Which is exactly what I wil do when it come to my MOT. I have used HID with varied effect on 3 bike now.
Aprilia Pegaso - dip beam only. Great improvement
Aprilia Dorsoduro - Absolutely rubbish. Light had to be adjusted so dip lit up the road OK but main dazzled oncoming traffic, or dip was rubbish and maIn was OK.
Suzuki Vstrom. - HID fitted to left lamp. Works well. I do have a switch to turn it of though as I don't like the lamp being turned on, then off and then on again when starting up. The kit I got does have two lamps and ballasts, but I have decide just to run one and keep the other as a spare. Seems to work OK like this.
Totally agree with the comment on ear plugs, what is the logic in making them illegal. I wear ear plugs sometimes and used to a lot. But know I use a Sony hand free kit that has bud type speakers which stops a fair bit of noise.
Keith C
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When I start my bike, I begin by pressing and holding the starter button. Then I turn on the ignition and the lights are off and engine not cranking because the starter button is pressed and the clutch lever is out. Finally I pull in the clutch to start the bike and release the starter button to turn on the headlights and stop cranking.
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^^ this - even if you're using halogens, that's a few extra joules you're saving to dump into the starter. I'm sure it doesn't make a huge difference, but I guess it could with a marginal battery, plus it makes me feel all green and eco friendly (before the engine starts at least) :grin:
I run full preload solo :( ...I need to get round to fitting those new springs...
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Thanks blokes, all useful information.
Question on HID lights - is there any sort of "time delay/ warmup" when switching from dipped beam up to full beam & visa versa?
Being "left in the dark" was one of the "hear-say" stories I referred to earlier on.
BTW - this is brilliant! How did we ever manage way-back-when - pre computer!!
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It takes maybe 5 seconds when you switch the bike on for the light to reach full brightness (probably not even that long actually), but the dipped/main function is just done by moving the bulb in and out of the holder a few mm - no switching on/off of HID bulbs :) so no delay between dipped and main.
In fact, switching back to halogen bulbs makes you realise how long it takes the bulb filaments to heat up - I do now notice the delay between dipped and mains on halogens!
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The initial ramp up to full brightness takes up to 30 seconds according to the literature but they appear to be done in half that.
2005 and later Stroms turn off the headlights when pressing the starter button so more power is available to the starter. That's why I go through that starting ritual. HIDs don't like being switched off and on again quickly but quickly means within a matter of milliseconds. I tend toward overkill in such matters. In practice, I don't see the time from pressing the starter button and turning off the lights to letting it go and turning the light back on happening that quickly.
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Sorted! H4 35W 4300K Bi-Xenon Slim Ballasts etc - eBay £9.99 +p&p :shrug: Lights were good before, now they are astonishing - riding in the dark at day time speeds.
Thanks everybody for the information/advice :clap:
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Can you post a link so we can peruse...?
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170908270806? ... 1423.l2649 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170908270806?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
This is the set my son bought for his SV - same supplier - fitted with even better results - SV lights are nothing short of dangerous as standard ###. This supplier, sunautohot, (on investigation [sad - I know])is part of the "Canton" trade set up in China - they supply VAG, BMW & Mercedes OEM equipment, probably in a nicer box though!
Anyhow, can't recommend highly enough - they even PM'd me to ask if I was satisfied with their product & to remind me that there is a 2 year warranty. " Please to not worry, we are responsible seller" lol
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:rain: Having experienced my first foggy, rain swept stormy night ride through minor A & B roads from Dover to Brighton last night I became all too aware of the possible limitations of the lights on my 2011 Wee.
First off my dip beam gives a fair approximation of main beam and attracts a number of angry flashes from oncoming drivers - adjustment obviously needed but that is more than covered by other posts elsewhere in the forum.
The overall brightness / colour was something I felt could be improved. Found this thread but to be honest it has left me confused. :shrug:
Fully understand that 100/90 bulbs make no sense - but then it seems that 35W HID Bi-Xenon lamps. 4300K kits are illegal & need swapping out for MOT??
Cabra posted a link to eBay & what sounds like a solution (not sure if he was being sarcastic) - but the link is no longer live.
The following link appears to offer an upgrade (but how worthwhile) that is both legal & not requiring additional wiring, ballasts etc.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-DL-650-V-Strom-B11111-55w-Xenon-High-Low-BULBS-/200542754348?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2eb147962c
Can anyone help me unravel the bulb issue as I am keen to upgrade the lighting (having set the beams correctly of course).
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The wee lights all seem to be set too high as standard. When you are on the road the combination of rider and suspension squat at speed makes them too high. Trial and error adjustment will do the trick there.
If you don't want to go down the hid route to increase light output then a combination of good quality xenon bulbs and a headlight relay harness will give you the best you can hope for.
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From reading several replies it seems that a lot of peoples bikes are being sold by dealers with the headlights adjusted incorrectly. The first job is to get the lights set correctly. If your dealer can't or won't do this (strictly speaking they need a beam setting machine) then it can be done yourself. There are lots of sites on the web that will tell you how to do this. Once the lights are set correctly see if you think they're up to the job. If not, then it's worth having a look at some of the better Xenon bulbs available, notably from Philips, Osram and PIAA. A pair of good H4 bulbs can be bought for under £15 a pair and may well do the job. Fitting higher wattage bulbs is risky to your wiring, headlight reflectors and is also illegal. If none of these work for you the fitting an HID kit is probably the only thing that will help which may well be illegal as well.
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:) Once again good advice from this forum (one of the main reasons I went for a Wee).
Sounds like good Osram / Phillips H4 replacements are the way to go - having got the headlights adjusted correctly.
Handbook says that standard fitment is a 12v 60/55W H4 bulb (x2) - so it would seem that 2 x "OSRAM H4 NIGHT BREAKER PLUS BULBS H4 472 12v 60/55w" would be a straight replacement?
Can someone explain to me why I would still need to add a headlight relay harness in this case ? :shrug:
Thanks again for your advice.
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Headlight relays ease the load of the stock contacts and connectors that are not really up to the job long term. The relays can actually put a full volt more into the lights which is noticeable. Also that volt is what was lost to heat in the stock setup. That heat is what causes problems. So far, 58 people reported losing their headlights at http://www.stromtrooper.com/information ... oblem.html (http://www.stromtrooper.com/information-vault/poll-404-check-your-headlight-status-cause-if-there-problem.html)
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When you have both main beams on they are drawing about 10Amps through the wiring, connectors and switches. If all this is in perfect condition and up to the job there shouldn't be a problem, but it does appear that the whole system is marginal at best and may give problems with age and usage. Using relays and better quality wiring takes the load off the switches, existing wiring and connectors so as has been pointed out there is less likely hood of a voltage drop at the bulbs, which are very critical, so you get maximum light output. If the whole job is done well there is also far less chance of a total headlight failure due to connectors and/or wiring burning out and switch contacts failing due to arcing debris build up.
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:ty: Many thanks Greywolf & Hookie - all is now explained.
Just to be lazy, does anyone have a link to somewhere on the forum where this has been discussed - I.e. how best to upgrade the wiring as you suggest? :fix:
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http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/VStrom/vstrom.html#h4dual
When you put it together use some electrical silicon grease to stop any water/salt ingress in the connectors.
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Many thanks to everyone for all the information - great bunch as ever.