[0006] Best Post of 2013 - Engine & Gearbox, Strip & Rebuild

[mjc506]

So it turns out that the best way to clean crankcases is with a dishwasher! Unfortunately, when the welder was fixing my breakage, the case took on a nice burnt golden orange look from the oil and crap being burnt on. So one case is silver and the other has a big gold patch.

I figure I should paint both cases to do the job properly (it'll annoy me otherwise). What would the forum do: try to match the silver (any pointers?), or go for a different colour completely? (Matt black maybe?)

Any opinions or advice?

[mjc506]

I figure black is worth a go The dishwasher brought both halves up lovely, but the gold-brown effect is still there. Baked into the paint by the look of it.

Seems like the best bet will be to assemble the engine, then paint it (masking off any non-paint parts). If I'm going to tart it up, I think I'll be replacing all the clutch/generator cover bolts anyway, so that's quite a few I don't have to worry about Otherwise, I'll have to be scrupulous when masking if the engine's all apart, and I won't be able to bake it properly anyway... I'll have to research paint a bit...

[mjc506]

Pretty much the end of the open heart surgery now - the crankcases are back together, with all rotating parts moving as they should Check out the colour difference between the two crankcase halves!

[mjc506]

I want to spray everything! EVERYTHING! :hyper: and I ordered the paint late last night we'll see how it looks, but I'm still open to persuasion from photos of a beautiful engine

Jacko, I'm afraid I'll have to disappoint, I don't think a camping table would carry a cylinder head, let alone a complete engine this is actually a generous donation from my work - a hydraulic raise/lowered trolly. It'll lift 500kg, so once I'm done with this, I'll weld a decent bed onto it and use it as a bike lift

[mjc506]

Some more progress.

Here's the lhs with covers off and most bits fitted:


and here's the rhs. Note, the oil pump is fitted, as is the gear selector mechanism and camchain/sprocket.


Now for the clutch.

Clutch basket as removed: (filthy)


...and after a quick clean:


on the engine:


'inner basket' ?


and bolted up. I have yet to bend the lock washer over here


Marvel at the difference between new clutch plates (left) and old (right, burnt)


Soak these in oil, and slot into the basket


Done!


Descolada, I've a few more photos to take (removing the clutch cover etc) and then I'll put together a clutch service how-to.

[mjc506]

Good progress last night.

Removed the water pump from the clutch cover, and opened it up (I'd disturbed two of the orings while removing the clutch cover, and I had all the spares anyway, so thought I might as well). Be careful here! The two screws holding it together are tight, and JIS - use an impact tool to loosen these.

Mucky eh? Looks like I had a tiny coolant leak through one of the o-rings too.

Don't do this bit if you don't have to! This seal was a b*stard to remove. It's an incredibly tight fit, there's nowhere to pry it out, and it's also glued in. I destroyed mine on the way out, even with a good application of heat!


Note: if you do need to change this part, the spare comes in two halves. One half fits in the hole, but it took me a little while to find where the other half went:


Clutch cover gasket on!


Clutch cover temporarily fitted - I have some new shiny bolts to fit after painting.


and on the other side, here's the generator cover fitted


Here's a cleaned piston, with the rings being removed


and here they both are fitted with new rings! This step really is quite simple. Just make sure you do one at a time - and refer to the other to make sure you get the rings right. The manual isn't particularly clear which goes where, and only one is marked with a 'T' on top. I was concerned that I'd got the wrong bits, but the old rings matched my new ones. Basically, from the bottom upwards, oil ring (consisting of side ring - spacer - side ring), then the second ring (marked with a 'T' on the top side), then the first right (groove on top). Please double check this on your engine first though!


So, who spotted my "deliberate" mistake?

[mjc506]

Clutch cover removed, and masked.


and after a bit of paint


I didn't really take many photos of the next bits - all pretty simple, but I needed both hands, and needed to assemble quickly as the silicone gasket stuff was drying!

Cylinders on


Water pump and clutch cover fitted


Heads fitted!


Camshafts/timing next. I will take plenty of photos of this bit, as it'll be more useful to someone I'd imagine

[mjc506]

Here's the starter idler gear.



This is removed either just before or just after the startermotor - I had to remove it as I couldn't get the generator off the crankshaft, and it was the only way of getting to one of the crankcase bolts.

[mjc506]

I've gone for a strange mixture - Hammerite Smooth black on the oil cooler, radiator (sides), starter motor, and a few other bits and pieces, and Techcote high temperature satin black for the bulk of the engine. Seems to bring up a nice smooth 'sheeny' finish and it's nice and easy to apply. 24hr cure, and a slow lowish temp final cure should make it rock hard!

...should :eusa-pray:

[mjc506]

Hammerite should be fine on the radiator - worst case temp should be ~100degC, well within normal paint capabilities. The engine does get a little hotter though, so...

Scant progress this weekend. Got the timing sorted (and turned it over a few times with the wrench - no grinding noises! ) but measuring the valve clearances showed all four exhaust valves over-tight. New shims ordered, should have then by tomorrow. I was about to go off in a rant about how the garage can't have checked them, but then realised that the last service they did included the valve check, and that was ~35k miles ago... I guess the clearances could have changed since then

Set up the timing mark to 'F' on the generator. Make sure to turn the crankshaft anti clockwise (facing it from the lhs of the engine). It is essential to keep both cam chains tight!


Each camshaft is labelled, so if you failed to keep everything organised, it's not the end of the world. For example: Inlet Rear:


and Exhaust Rear:


Follow the service manual religiously. This is the front cylinder timing marks:

Note, in this photo, you can't see the '3' mark. It is there, but faint, even in the flesh.

Cover the journals in engine oil!


Journal's fitted in place:


Tensioner installed:


And then do something similar at the back! (but make sure that you follow the manual re: timing marks and crankshaft position!)


It turns!


And here I am double checking tappet sizes...

[mjc506]

The engine's now spending tonight in the front room

note for next time - it's silly heavy. Don't try and carry it across a tiled kitchen in boots covered in oil, soap and water... :limp:

[mjc506]

It's all in one piece!!!

Fitting the new tappet shims:

and now the valve clearances are all good

and a crappy photo (taking a picture of a shiny black thing in low light with a mobile phone is never going to work great...) of the first few coats of satin black!


I'll get a daylight picture shortly

[mjc506]

a bit better:


Definitely another few coats needed, after a rub down but I quite like the finish. Whether or not it looks right on the bike is another matter of course

[mjc506]

First picture was at night, with flash. The second was in daytime, but under a canopy, still with flash. I think google's "enhanced" the pictures too.

The real finish is a nice satin black. I'm not home tonight, but tomorrow I'll get it out properly and get some decent photos

EDIT: Been thinking about the first start... what's the best way of making sure that the engine oil's everywhere it should be? The service manual doesn't mention it.

[ziggy]

I would certainly prime your oil filter before you crank her over.
I know the plugs will no doubt be in but if not you could put her in gear and turn the engine over by the back wheel once the oil is in.

Good luck.

 

[mjc506]

Plenty of assembly lubricant used, but I'm still twitchy about relying on it

Yup, good point, I'll fill the oil filter up to start with. I was considering laying the engine over on it's lhs, opening the clutch cover (again), overfilling with oil, and turning the oil pump by hand until it 'felt' right... I think there's a few ways of checking oil has got to various places too. Once I'm happy, I can close it up, drain the excess oil, close my eyes and press the button

[mjc506]

I'm sure it will, but the half-second or so after every oil change while the pump get oil to everywhere it should is long enough! I keep hearing '90 seconds' and 'a few minutes' banded about

I do have the advantage that it's not strapped to a bike yet, so I can (and could) fill the crankcase completely with oil to make sure

[Jacko]

If you're concerned then take the plugs out and turn it over on the starter for a bit.

Once running the oil light should go out within a few seconds, the oil that you used when assembling should last for those few seconds until the pump takes over. Only start worrying if the oil light stays on.

[greywolf]

Overfilling won't help any. Just use the amount specified on a rebuild. It's the parts that are force lubricated by the oil pump and oil galleries that can suffer until oil pressure is built up. Those parts are taken care of by the assembly lube applied during the rebuild.

[mjc506]

I may not need to overfill - my thinking was just to make sure that the suction side of the pump was submerged, then turn the pump to get some oil where it's needed. Once the pump's primed, I believe that there's more than enough oil in there (even at min level) to keep it so.

There's quite a few expensive bits fed by the oil pump... crankshaft, camshafts/tappets (and whatever I've forgotten!)

I'm just paranoid