Recent Posts

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21
Run the back wheel up on a 1" - 1.5" block of wood. That helps if the bike has been lowered, should help even if it hasn't?
It's a bit of an art to get the bike up on the centre stand, but shouldn't take much more that your weight & a bit of a pull.
Hold the bike upright with the left hand on the bars & the right hand on the pillion grab rail. Push the centre stand down, with the right foot, until you feel it touch the ground then, with your right foot still pushing the stand down, rock the bike (gently) until you can feel both centre stand feet touching down.
When you've got it like that put all your weight on the stand & pull/lift backwards with your hands. Your left foot can come off the ground as the bike will balance on the stand while you're lifting. 
22
Wanted / Re: Main stand wanted.
« Last post by OWDBLOKE on May 26, 2024, 20:12:24 »
Great stuff fella’s , going to order one today , thanks for the info , much appreciated .
23
the lambda sensor has all ready been cut by a previous owner was told it was done by a previous owner to the one who sold me the bike it runs and then farts and loses power so it feels like it could be the seals but I just thought I was a good idea to do all of them while I was there but I literally can't get her on to the centre stand   :dl_smiley_banghead: I am working my way through the problems one at a time lol
24
For Sale (Bike related) / Re: Givi luggage and low seat for sale DL1000
« Last post by Den53 on May 26, 2024, 19:27:48 »
All items have now been SOLD.
Thank you.
25
It's fairly unlikely that the crush gasket into the rear cylinder head is leaking, unless you have a reason to believe that's the case then I would leave that one well alone. The usual culprit for exhaust leaks is the sleeve gasket between that header and the collector pipe, usually because the welded on exhaust clamps have rotted away. This allows fresh air in before the lambda sensor and so the bike runs crazily rich. Make sure you smear a generous amount of assembly paste on that gasket, I also found it helpful to jack the collector pipe up with a block of wood to make sure that connection was fully seated. If the clamps are gone, or look less than ideal, then swapping them out for stainless ones is a worthwhile expense. I can find out the size I used if you need them.
26
The Blue Oyster bar / Re: Question About Seat.
« Last post by The Doctor 46 on May 26, 2024, 18:52:52 »
 Okay now folks. I have found a thread on the Stormtrooper site and the answer is Yes. It does fit so Den's seat is now sold.  :thumb:

It will be back on the market in a few months time though when I am fit enough to ride with the standard seat again.  :thumb:
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I did just check and the bones are 140mm
28
hi yes that's is what I mean it literally won't budge I need to change exhuast gaskets on the manifold and the other ones due to exhuast leak or engine fart and completeloss of power for a second so I thought I would start with the exhuast gaskets but need to remove the rear suspension to get to the studs and currently the center stand is in the way of that as well lol
29
Tyres / Anakee Roads
« Last post by Joe Rocket on May 26, 2024, 18:47:55 »
I saw my Anakee III's were down on the limit markers last week so I'm going to change to 'Roads' as I don't do much more than a bit of grass or tracks at best as an adventue!

I changed to A III's in 2015 when my Trail Wings (the rear precisely) punctured on a French motorway at 120 kpm. I'd just passed 6k kms on those original tyres. I replaced that set in 2018. My bike is now past 46k kms so the two sets have covered 40k; that's 20k each set or 12,500 miles!

I should have them fitted by the end of the week so I'll report back what I think they're like after 'rodage' or running them in as you would say.

 :)
30
Do you mean the bike won't go up onto the centre stand?
I assume the centre stand moves freely down to the ground but then won't lift.
Mine isn't exactly effortless but she goes up pretty easy and I'm the same weight as you. I find lifting up and back on the rear pannier rail helps a lot.
If the bike has been lowered then it will be super tough. At standard height the front fork legs should be flush with the top yoke and the rear dog bone links should be 140mm centre to centre.
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