Author Topic: Electric death (Read 7231 times)

Tusker · « **on:** May 14, 2018, 17:51:08 »

Now I know most don't ride Tiggers,, !!! but some of you do know a lot about bikes in general. After a great 6 days in Ireland, last night as I came off the ferry my dashboard died !!! rev counter stuck at 5.5 thousand revs and no display. My riding mate confirmed no brake light or indicators.. I decided that stopping the bike was not a good idea,, proved right when I got home cos it wouldn't start again.... With my limited knowledge I'm guessing its a blown fuse .. any hints or considered advice welcome..

kwackboy · « **Reply #1 on:** May 14, 2018, 18:14:01 »

Yes , first check the fuses, although it should have restarted if it's just the circuit for indicators/brake light.
Has the engine management light come on ?
Also , what's the symptoms of the non starting ? Is it just turning over and not firing or dead battery ?

Tusker · « **Reply #2 on:** May 14, 2018, 18:24:35 »

no engine management lights on ,, after turning it off its like there s no battery connected.. just dead, no lights no swinging dash.. nothing.. Just done 6 days 1,100 miles it just happened off the ferry home,,

kwackboy · « **Reply #3 on:** May 15, 2018, 04:08:34 »

The battery would be the first culprit , check connections are OK and then if you have a meter test for load drop . First get something to hold the clutch lever in, a strap or long cable tie, it saves a spare set of hands later on.
To do this, put meter probes on the battery terminals while ignition is in off position , check the voltage, should be around 12.5v -12.8v.
Then , keeping the probes on the battery turn on the ignition to see how much the voltage drops.
If it's a good battery the voltage should drop very little, say 2-3v while the bike does its thing before returning to around 12v before you press the start button, push the start button constantly checking the voltage , again if it's a good battery the drop should be around 3v when turning over.
If it's a bad battery then the voltage will drop quite considerable, possibly as much as 7-9v not giving you enough power to start the bike or even power anything.

The next thing to check if you get nothing when turning on the ignition would be the starter solenoid fuse and the solenoid itself . I've worked many bikes but I'm unable tell you the exact location , it will be close to the battery , just follow the positive battery lead.
Once you have found it check the fuse , should be near around 30amp (green maybe?), When these blow you get zero ignition (like no battery) , I doubt it's this but worth a check because if this had blown you wouldn't have got off the ferry .
However , sometimes the whole solenoid can be faulty giving similar symptoms as a blown 30amp fuse so , if fuse is good try this, with the ignition on, it will cause a few sparks, you need to bridge the two main +/- wires bolted to the solenoid. This done by maybe using an old set of plyers with rubber handles, open the jaws and touch the two main wires or two old screw drivers with decent handles, it's a bit archaic but it works. If everything else is good this will turn your starter motor and possibly start the bike, if it does remove the plyers/screw drivers straight away.
Doing this test basically removes the solenoid from the loom and may suggest that your solenoid is worn out or has an intermittent problem.

I'm not saying that these two tests are your problem but it's the first couple of things to check.

Good luck for now

Gassoon · « **Reply #4 on:** May 15, 2018, 08:04:46 »

One hell of a reply kwackboy

Feel like we should sticky it somewhere, somehow!
Glad you got home anyway, Tusker!

kwackboy · « **Reply #5 on:** May 15, 2018, 08:47:57 »

I'm currently on a 26day holiday in Thailand with bugger all to do apart from rest, read and drink beer.
I generally don't get time at home because I'm always working my back side off .

Anyway for anyone who thinks I've missed girls and lady boys off my list my missus takes care of those needs ..

Tusker · « **Reply #6 on:** May 15, 2018, 10:34:21 »

Thanks Kwackboy, I'll get a more a mate to help me out and try your suggested checks,,

Valves · « **Reply #7 on:** May 15, 2018, 10:46:43 »

I'd also suggest checking the wiring to/from the rectifier - this converts the AC to DC - if it has struggled to cope, the wiring will be looking decidely 'brown' usually at one end.

You're looking for a finned solid piece of aluminium with wires coming out of it - usually mounted in an airflow around the inside of the frame (but could be elsewhere - on my old Navigator it was under the rear rack!) Follow the wiring to the engine, left side

Tusker · « **Reply #8 on:** June 05, 2018, 20:16:16 »

Finally got a bit of time to myself today, so armed with a new Multimeter I checked all the fuses and they are good. I've checked the battery and its good, can't check power drop on ignition cos there is no ignition. To recap, Tiger just done 1100 miles in 4 days,, starts perfectly on ferry and runs from Holyhead to the Mainland OK... then whilst running the dashboard dies, the rev counter freezes and headlight and brake lights fail. Bike runs all the way to Wigan but once I turn it off its dead... My question is what could fail whilst running if its not a fuse ??? or is there a fuse I don't know about ? With my limited knowledge I can't identify starter solenoid or rectifier !!!!

kwackboy · « **Reply #9 on:** June 05, 2018, 21:35:59 »

Have you check the charging rate while running at the battery . ? Charging should be between 13v -14.5v. optimum charging is between 1500rpm - 5000rpm, let it run for over 20mins .

From your symptoms you are describing it sounds to me like you have a charging issue. Being a triumph I'd suspect the regulator is giving up when it gets hot .
I've seen regulator's charge perfectly well when cold but after around 20mins they just give up.

Give this test a try .

Edit,
Just re-read your last post . Zero ignition so you won't be able to do this test.
Try to find the starter solenoid as I described in one of my last posts .

mr_diver · « **Reply #10 on:** June 06, 2018, 06:59:20 »

What voltage is the battery showing?
Anything below 12v with out ignition on will be the tell tale of a battery/charging issue.

Also check the simple things like are the battery terminals loose?

Disable all aftermarket electrical items to rule them out.

As kwackboy said Trumpets are known to have reg/recs built to the same standards as 90's Hondas (eg shiyt!) But that's doesn't explain the dash off unless it's caused something else to go wonkey.

Carefully unplug the ecu and check the connectors for damage, corrosion or heat damage.

I hate tracing electrical issues.

I feel your pain.

Tusker · « **Reply #11 on:** July 05, 2018, 07:54:51 »

Just to end this tale of woe, finally my Stepson (Mechanic

and bike lover) got round to having a look at the Tiger.
To demonstrate to me my total incompetence in the use of a multi-meter

he checked all the fuses that I told him I had already checked (wise man) and the 3rd one was blown. He replaced it and Tiger is all better.

According to the handbook the fuse that robbed Tiger of its Dashboard, Rev counter, lights, indicators and ignition system is the fuse for the horn and indicators. Live, Learn and move on !!!

wurzel · « **Reply #12 on:** July 05, 2018, 10:39:13 »

This tale of woe
After his fuse did blow
Left Tusker rather stranded.

But the stepson came
And put him to shame
With a multimeter he is cack handed!

SuzukiSte · « **Reply #13 on:** July 05, 2018, 10:52:52 »

Tusker · « **Reply #14 on:** July 05, 2018, 11:02:00 »

You're a poet and I didn't know it !!

Andy M · « **Reply #15 on:** July 05, 2018, 18:07:57 »

The jungle approach to fuses is even easier. Photograph the fuses. Remove the smallest fuse and replace it with the second smallest. See what works/ doesn't work now. Put the next biggest fuse in the gap and repeat. If nothing makes any difference except the 30A main one its probably not the fuse. Use the photograph to put them back in the right order.

A test lamp and 9V battery are actually smaller, dual purpose (use it as a spare indicator lamp or to read until the RAC arrive) and probably easier for a lot of people to use.

Andy

tallpaul · « **Reply #16 on:** July 05, 2018, 18:28:33 »

The range of literary talent on this forum knows no bounds! As for electrical talent, well...

Tusker · « **Reply #17 on:** July 05, 2018, 19:23:30 »

Sometimes I think I would be better off finding a country cottage and losing the car and the motorbike. Obviously there would have to be a pub close by and a Spar !! a fishing pond would be nice and a chippy... that would allow me to lead a simple life !!

Rusty Nuts · « **Reply #18 on:** July 05, 2018, 19:54:15 »

Quote from: tallpaul on July 05, 2018, 18:28:33

The range of literary talent on this forum knows no bounds! As for electrical talent, well...

Voltaire we can do, voltage, meh.....

Fat Rat · « **Reply #19 on:** July 05, 2018, 23:02:35 »

Tusker, I reckon your electrical problems are a result of your bike sobbing because of what you did to her paintwork