Valve clearances on a 2014 1000

[porter]

Checked my valves today, 30k miles. All inlets at 0.10mm, none tight though this is the minimum. All exhausts at 0.20mm but one front cylinder a bit tight, 0.20mm is the minimum.
So I'll have to pull the cams and see what I need shim wise.
Boy does it get dirty under the tank! Air filter wasn't too bad, changed at 15k. That front cylinder centre spark plug was all rusted up again just like at 15k when I last looked, drain hole clear.
Thanks to my old mate Billy for keeping me right on the timing marks.

[vstroman]

Well done for tackling this job yourself, I suspect many people don't bother. a 'good' private mechanic I know always seems to think it's a lot of work and a waste of money as they rarely need adjusting,your case proves that this is wrong, I suspect he just doesn't fancy all the hassle, easier doing simpler servicing work etc.
Not sure if the 650 needs doing as often as the 1000, the valves have never been checked on my 650, over 30k miles now.

[Ianmc]

Checked mine on the Wee on Wednesday ,all OK at 37,000 mls.All about mid spec.The rear head is easy but that front head is a total pig.Drained the coolant and changed it while I was at it.Found a few specks of rust on the chain links so cleaned and lubed it.Ready for spring weather now.

[porter]

Well I finally got round to pulling the cams out to find what shim sizes I'll need. Nothing too bad, one size smaller on all the inlets and two sizes smaller on the exhaust valves bar one, its just one size. Was only able to swap one shim.
 This is the easiest shim under bucket bike I've done yet, not that I've done many, two Triumph's and two Yamaha's. With no cam chain or tensioner to worry about the DL is much easier. One Yamaha, an R6 we had to drop the motor out! Which incidentally according to my independent mechanic friend is now what Suzuki recommends to do on 2017 on vstrom 650's to adjust the valves. That'll be a big bill or they'll charge but never do them!
Ordered the shims online. I'd  more than likely find the Suzuki dealer here wouldn't have them and have to order anyway plus travel back to get them. One of the Yamaha's I did the dealer had no shim kits at all even though he'd been a yam dealer for about 5 years.

[porter]

Hello again. Anyone out there  ever used JMP valve shims? Can't  get a oe Suzuki one on the size I want (2.95mm) as they're on back order but ebay has the jmp shims. Anyone used these? Cheers

[jolidesign]

Hi. Instead of buying new shims you can grind the old ones on an oil stone. If you are patient and careful it works. Use a micrometer to check the right size.

[porter]

Yeah I've seen that on another forum, but surely there is some kind of hardening process on the shims other wise the valve stem would bash it to dead?
Anyway my  old mate Billy at BMC bike repairs in Belfast to the rescue with a shim. Cheers mate.   

[kwackboy]

Hello. Instead of buying new shims you can grind the old ones on an oil stone.

.

[Dark-Strom]

I recall grinding some for my Dad years ago on a horizontal grinder in the toolroom at work when he rebuilt a SD1 2.6 engine some years ago.

IIRC (happy to be shot down), the shims are made of silver steel (already hardened), in which case a local small engineering firm may be able to help?

[porter]

Finally got round to finishing this, all set to the mid range, ie 0.15mm on the inlets and 0.25mm on the exhausts. Maybe should have went one size smaller on the exhaust valves to take them to their upper limit at 0.30mm but that would be another weeks wait for more shims.
I'm happy with them and will not look at them again for another 20k miles, if I still have the bike.
Now on to the throttle body balance and  throttle position  senor and that fuel strainer will I've the tank off.

[porter]

Nothing in the throttle body balance, less than half a column on the Morgan gauges also the throttle position senor is fine too. Greased the steering head bearings while the tank was off. No fuel strainer as yet, get it all finished in a week or so .

[porter]

Fuel strainer in, not sure it was worth the effort, old one was clean enough. Maybe I was lucky with clean petrol at fill ups.
Changed the oil to a 15w50 to see if it helps with the clutch rattle, doubt it.
 that's it all back together now a good test ride to see if I've done everything right, fingers crossed!