Car oil marked as "energy conserving" or "friction reduction additives" should never be used in a bike engine with a wet clutch, but a non-unit construction engine with dry or separately housed clutch would generally be fine with it.
Any old oil could go in a pre water-cooled BMW boxer as there is a dry clutch.
Oil grade is another one where people get too hung up over.
In every owner's manual there is a chart to help you choose which oil grade to use dependent on the temperature where the engine it used.
Putting 20w50 in the strom is not going to kill the engine. Neither is 0w10.
But there a more suitable grades.
Oil of the wrong grade is still better than no oil.
Many of the dissident colonials across the pond use Shell Rowenta 20w50 truck oil in the mk1 Strom 1000 for longer service intervals and report no ill effects after some seriously high miles. 100k>
But putting the same thicker viscosity oil in a GSXR and blasting it around a track will likely sheer the long stand hydrocarbons that make up the oil.
Basically shredding oil and it more 'runny' as it wasn't designed for that sort of abuse.
Cruising for long miles at low/medium rpm in the strom engine going state to state in the US is fine.
As for shelf life of oil... it's a marketing ploy.
"Don't use that oil, it was made 2+ years ago"
Forgetting the fact it's made from dead dinosaurs millions of years ago and laid under the earth until some bloke drilled a deep enough hole.
OK additives may not last millions of years and are something we added, but the basic oil grades were all present in the cruide oil extracted from mother earth and distilled and refined to make the perfect 10w40 motorbike specific oil for a Suzuki and 10w30 for my Honda (psss I use 10w40 as it's cheaper)
Stick it in and forget about it.
(That's what she said) I'm going to go lie down now.
(That's what she said)