Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Club DL250, DL650, DL1000 & DL1050
V-Strom specific discussion => V-Strom specific discussion => Topic started by: Juvecu on July 08, 2013, 21:09:24
-
Figured I'll start a thread about the work I'm going to be doing to the Strom in the future. I'm planning on respraying various bits and perhaps changing the colour of the bike to orange instead of the current blue. It's done more than a 102k miles now and it's been through several winters without much love other than the occasional Hosepipe wash and ACF50 spraying. If I were to sell it I'd get ~£1000 for it in it's current state and I'd likely get as much for all the little extras it has. It isn't worth much in monetary value, but it's been a great tool that I've decided I don't want to part with just yet. I've been looking at getting another bike for a while and recently got myself a DR-Z400SM in yellow. The SM is a hoot and there are loads you can do to pimp it, I'm also going to get off road wheels for it. Because I have 2 bikes now I can take one off the road at any time to work on the other and this is really lovely. No worrying if the part is going to arrive in time or if you'll get the job done. I can work on the bikes in a relaxed manner and I don't care if I don't finish it today, there is always tomorrow (like the Irish would say :) )
I'm planning on painting everything that isn't looking decent any more... that's just about everything. The frame, swingarm, fork lowers, headlight cowl frame, pannier rails, foot rest mounts, wheels, etc. They will mainly be sprayed in black, possibly all using VHT All Weather Epoxy paint (http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/epoxypaint/). The engine will likely also get some paint love, I've yet to decide what colour, but I'm leaning towards using a flat black and silvery/aluminium/titanium colour combination. I'll probably respray the radiator while I'm at it (or even replace it.) Might even add some nice coloured radiator hoses. All the hot bits will get done with VHT Engine Enamel (http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/engineenamel/) and will get oven baked at ~93 deg C to cure. I'm going to repaint my Madstad, the original paint isn't the best and will be making and painting a better satnav mount too.
In addition to the respraying I'm also going to be refreshing fork oil and will get the fork stanchions rechromed. I'm going to (finally!) add my satnav wiring and my Stebel heart attack generator. I'll be polishing the feint scratches out of my headlights and restoring most of the plastics. I need to fit new heated grips before winter and I'd like to fit a new screen, mine is very scratched, I might even try to buff the scratches out. While I'm in there I will fix my fuel injector wiring properly, it's still bodged and going strong, but I'd feel better if I did a proper fix. I'll likely be checking the rest of the wiring loom too. The Strom will get LED indicators and an LED compatible flasher relay too. I'm considering adding an LED rear light as well. I'll polish the fine scratches out of the clocks, might even change the faces to white ones, I've yet to make up my mind. The gear and brake levers will get attention too, particularly the gear lever, it's worn and I'm thinking of getting a folding lever replacement along with fitting wider foot pegs again.
I'm sure I'll think of more to do along the way. I'm on a budget so I can't get everything professionally done. My time is free though and I'm handy enough to do pretty much everything myself.
You might be asking why I don't just sell it and buy a new one. I asked myself this too and in the end I don't really know. What I do know is that it would be nice to see the Strom in good condition again after the hard life it's had and good service it's given me. I figure this won't cost me as much as a new bike and I already know I like this bike enough to keep it for another year or two. I also know that when this is all done the Strom is going to be one tidy looker and that it'll have a better lasting paint job than most bikes fresh out of the factory :grin:
The idea is to take pictures as I go along so that there is a good before and after comparison. Photos are all going to be put up at this album link (https://picasaweb.google.com/derikleroux/StromRestoration?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCNTWjfO9tvi16AE&feat=directlink). Unless the camera dies on me all the photos will be taken with my ageing Canon PowerShIt A400 on a tripod (otherwise they will be blurry.) At least it's good in low light :)
Some before photos to get us started then:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gDKT5qUzZeg/UdsXJIHlvGI/AAAAAAAADn8/aj03BYtqNo4/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NCssP3AAa2A/UdsXJc05LZI/AAAAAAAADn4/eUEm5SlmWiY/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WVZhCdtB5aQ/UdsXJyXWwEI/AAAAAAAADoE/rCyHEYhNX2s/s800/IMG_0003.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u8DVjcrsRb8/UdsXKbmbt0I/AAAAAAAADoY/IEfOpkp0kIA/s800/IMG_0004.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-r1QNV_p1Fks/UdsXKtFdONI/AAAAAAAADoI/diKRUCDY9WY/s800/IMG_0005.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--iglJsR1Cv8/UdsXLZAr3GI/AAAAAAAADoo/Ir_XiAvh3Ic/s800/IMG_0009.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4NsT7nb1RuI/UdsXL42SI3I/AAAAAAAADok/s6twMG_vpjE/s800/IMG_0014.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ah6zlSnNKx0/UdsXLxuLlnI/AAAAAAAADog/RzCJOz8geoM/s800/IMG_0015.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OkITXRy7Q8Q/UdsXMfZeP8I/AAAAAAAADos/2pC1mgCYT88/s800/IMG_0016.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9xpAyNCXOmM/UdsXNPXrFxI/AAAAAAAADow/ecR8DrXVW8Q/s800/IMG_0017.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5d31e7iQ_Gc/UdsXOFH1vhI/AAAAAAAADpI/WTne4-0pmQQ/s800/IMG_0019.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ByjUn8BtED4/UdsXODhbFuI/AAAAAAAADpE/g9B5Q2ryEZk/s800/IMG_0020.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9iMXIDVA2oE/UdsXOsuTU6I/AAAAAAAADpM/lEezD6_Ivp4/s800/IMG_0021.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y9Cv1OF-abw/UdsXPlh2F5I/AAAAAAAADpY/RXhebq8GN00/s800/IMG_0022.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-SE00ZGQI1_4/UdsXQsLnZ8I/AAAAAAAADpg/8eKO1EujB_Q/s800/IMG_0023.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-iigZXfacMsg/UdsXQnTXrQI/AAAAAAAADpo/LajLU1PDcBg/s800/IMG_0024.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9STAub-rguo/UdsXRnS3cxI/AAAAAAAADpw/BYrv49ESndQ/s800/IMG_0025.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Eh98LAe8MW8/UdsXRkuMXAI/AAAAAAAADps/b0QnDJ-H86I/s800/IMG_0026.JPG)
-
What's that covering the oil cooler Juvecu?
Des
-
I'll find this very interesting. I've done one or two similar projects since I've retired and watching the transformation is the best bit. Hope all goes well (I mean cheaply really!) and looking forward to the updates
-
That's seen some riding hasn't it. :)
-
What's that covering the oil cooler Juvecu?
Black duct tape :grin: In winter the bike always seems to bounce the temperature gauge (goes down to 2 bars and then back up a while later.) You've probably seen taxis and older cars cover up their radiators in the winter so that the engine doesn't get too cold on the move. Same effect here except that I only cover the oil cooler and not the radiator. The radiator has a thermostat, but the oil cooler doesn't. I don't get the bouncing temp gauge. In summer I've ridden it like this and the fan has never come on, neither has the temp gone above 3 bars. I considered wrapping the front exhaust pipe previously to get the same effect, but wrapping the oil cooler was cheap and nasty and did the trick. I no longer travel as far as I used to in winter so it's probably not needed any more and I will remove it when I can be bothered.
-
That's seen some riding hasn't it. :)
You could say that lol You don't really notice how it gets worse and worse over time. One day you just think: "Shees, this thing is old and tatty now! :shy: " I have some photos from when I just got the bike and there is a very noticeable difference to how it's looking now.
Here's the first photo I took of it after I bought it, it's at ~29k. It looks very "fresh" compared to what it looks like now. It had 2 previous owners and neither of them took very good care of it either.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5qfBrTjyfGA/S94AAd5BDwI/AAAAAAAADaY/BeKrAY9zXC4/s800/bike_side.JPG)
-
I can't blame you for not selling it on . The bike owes you nothing and to say its done over 100,000 its not that bad . The engines been cared for and it could well do the same miles again if looked after .
I once had a Transalp that covered over 70,000 miles and was gutted to sell it , it served me well and never let me down , I think I became attached to it :shrug:
I'll look forward to seeing it getting transformed into a nice tidy Wee as it once was ...
I have a spare front mudguard if you plan on renewing it ..PM me if you want it ..
-
I must say, the 29k pic doesn't look 70,000 miles away from the earlier ones. It's done well, I'd be keeping it too, it's just not worth selling for what it's worth, might as well just keep it, if even just for hacking through the winter.
-
The good lady is fine with me getting a 3rd bike somewhere in the future, did I mention I love her lots? :) The only condition is that I just have to wait until we buy that 4 bedroom house with the double garage first :GRR:
-
Replacement front mudguard secured, courtesy of the good man Locky :thumb:
-
I'm pleased someone else's bike is as bad as mine :lala:
-
Replacement front mudguard secured
I thought you would have just gone for a neater bolt arrangement....
-
I was thinking of shortening it to behind the crack, not sure how it would look, but it was the cheap option. I'm going to get the one from Locky, if I still feel like shortening it I will give it a go and if it looks shite I can use the one I got from him instead. If I don't use the one I'm getting from Locky he can have it back if he wants.
-
Will keep an eye on this. Ooooh I do love a good restoration! :)
-
Do you have a budget in mind for the work?
Always prudent to know how much you want to spend rather than what you're likely to spend before launching out on a project. Although for its returns, the maths don't always add up! haha :grin:
-
I'm thinking most of the outlay will be in paint and I know the fork stanchions' rechrome will be in the area of £75 as I've already had a quote over the phone from a local place. The rest of the money will be going towards stainless steel bolts, some tools I might need as I go along and lots of wire wheels and sandpaper. There'll be some costs involved in things like thinners/acetone/etc., but I don't expect that to be much at all. I'll keep track of expenses in this thread too as I go along. If I can get away with less than £1k then I'll be smiling, otherwise I'll just ride it so I can get the smile back afterwards :grin:
-
Whoa Juv!
You're thinking of spending around £1K for a 100k mileage bike valued at £1k, not to mention the costs of blood, sweat & tears involved? You really are deserving of a medal of some description mate. :clap:
Not many of us have that kind of money to 'invest'. :) Apart from a brand spanking new machine of course! :auto-dirtbike:
-
Looking at your Wee makes me realise mine's not too scruffy after all.
Don't forget that these sorts of excursions always take twice as long and cost twice as much as you first estimate - especially if you've got something else to be riding around on in the meanwhile.
As for justifiying the expense, as I always tell Mrs Iggy:
A pound spent on a car is a pound wasted, a pound spent on a bike is a pound invested.
Hope it all goes smoothly. :fix:
Iggy
-
Whoa Juv!
You're thinking of spending around £1K for a 100k mileage bike valued at £1k, not to mention the costs of blood, sweat & tears involved? You really are deserving of a medal of some description mate. :clap:
Not many of us have that kind of money to 'invest'. :) Apart from a brand spanking new machine of course! :auto-dirtbike:
But he'll then have a bike that looks nice and does everything he wants. Far better than chopping it in and buying a load of new problems....
It looks like a good plan to me.
-
+1 for Iansoadys comment plus the fact that you'll have done it. That in itself is very satisfying and worth a few bob. Given there is no engine work and other than the forks, no replacement part charges other than what you want to do, paint will be the most expensive. Will you paint it yourself? Do you have a compressor and a gun or will you use aerosols? I reckon that, unless you buy loads of bling you'll do a grand job for less than £500. I've been wrong before though! :grin:
-
It does always cost more than you think.....
I have rarely got back what I've spent on bikes (a Velo Venom was an exception, but if I'd kept it another year or two....)
But for a bike like Juv's I think you're right that £500 or so should see most of it done. The temptation is always to go that bit further - every bit of new paint / chrome just shows up the bit next to it so you have to do that as well.
-
I'm a big fan of reading these types of bike rebuilding/restoration posts on forums. I originally thought £500, but as I know how these things go I figured I'd double the amount. I don't have kids or pets or anything else than myself and the good lady to spend extra cash on (I planned that one carefully :grin: ) so I don't mind it. I know I'm a bit ambitious as far as the time goes, but once I get going and keep going it will move along at the right pace. If it does end up being a case of only finishing things off next year then I'm going to be leaving things that are easy to get to like wheels, fork lowers, swingarm and panels for last. Along those lines I think the frame, subframe and headlight cowl frame are the first things which should get attention so that it's done and dusted. They are also the things that will be more "hidden" than the rest so if they aren't perfect because of the learning it won't be the end of the world (or rather relearning as I haven't done something like this for almost 15 years!)
There will be a lot of painting involved and I'm planning on doing everything with spray cans. I have a compressor, but it's a bit underpowered and I don't want to have problems. I've done a bit of paint research and I've decided that all the paint will be from the VHT range. They basically have everything and there is someone in the UK that supplies them for decent prices on eBay and they have the whole range. The only exception to this is my centre stand which I resprayed yesterday with some left over Hammerite Satin Black I had, but I might give it a couple of coats of the VHT epoxy black if it sticks out a lot.
-
So this all started on Sunday with a centre stand clean up. As mentioned this was done with some Hammerite Satin Black I had left from a previous job. The stand was taken off the bike, involved in a skirmish with a wire wheel and a power drill for about 45 minutes and then hard to reach places had some sand paper pulled over them. I washed it with ordinary washing up liquid and water and left it on the black bin to dry out in the sun. It was bone dry in about 10 minutes, the weather is lovely. I had bought some Kurust earlier the day and I set about painting it well. It's milky white stuff and it converts rust to a stable surface. I think it works by creating a different iron oxide that's black and has a smaller stable molecule (instead of red/brown rust which has a very large molecule.) It's good stuff and you can paint over it once it's dry. I left it overnight to dry.
On Monday I set up an area in the backyard in a wind quiet corner for spray painting small stuff. I just stapled some thick plastic to the wall and used a few sticks to keep it down. I applied lots of thin, quick coats and made sure to get it into every nook and cranny I could. In total I did about 7 or 8 coats and left if for 15 mins in between each to dry a bit, but not enough so that it wasn't tacky any more. After all the coats were on I left it in the sun to get some heat into it.
My makeshift "spray booth":
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-TU8f0GCJw9A/UdwwF4iT5pI/AAAAAAAADqg/V-BR-irOe_U/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
After a few coats of paint:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nKbwMU1_67k/UdwwGCspCZI/AAAAAAAADqk/URxjeI_lIJU/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
The end result:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0DkNjQhFxow/UdwwGoEmDeI/AAAAAAAADqs/1tY9xJTUPHA/s800/IMG_0003.JPG)
Unfortunately I didn't take a 'before' picture, but I can assure you it was looking very sad. It's a bit too fancy looking now to put back on the bike because it's the only thing that's in good nick lol
-
Well done Juv' for an interesting topic
IMHO your restoration project is worthwhile not in monetary terms but in the personal satisfaction that 'making a difference' can bring. Good luck and keep them updates coming.
-
A some "mandatory" research I decided I needed to test the VHT paint before committing to buy lots of it. The perfect little project was to spray my new case savers that I bought for the DR-Z (henceforth known as "the SM".) Gave the case savers 2 light coats with VHT Engine Enamel "Bright Red" code SP121 and then 3 medium coats after that. I left 10-15 mins drying time in between and sprayed directly onto bare aluminium. The result was very good and I'm satisfied with how it came out and that I've decided on the right paint for the Strom restoration. Just one image below to show the finish I get from the spray cans. If anyone is interested in seeing more, head over here (http://www.drz400uk.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6869) to my thread on the DR-Z forums where I keep track of everything I do to the SM. There's a link to this in my signature too if anyone wants to keep track of the SM as it gets pimped.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DPH_oXx8nqM/UdxBHd7UrSI/AAAAAAAADrQ/oJyfEpkTiX0/s800/IMG_0009.JPG)
-
Are you going to use the same paint for the tank and panels? If you are, try leaving the paint on your test pieces for a week or so and then gently flat back with some 1200 wet and dry and polish with some medium grade 3M cutting compound. I've not used this method on VHT but have had great success with aerosol paint and laquer.
Apologies if this is 'trying to teaching Gran to suck eggs'!!! :grin:
-
I don't understand exactly what you mean about the sanding and polishing. Are you meaning sanding before and polishing after or how?
The red is for some "subtle" red touches here and there on the SM. The next thing to get painted with the red will be the cam cover and then I might do some frame protector plates. Few other things like the front brake hose mount and the rear brake clevis and other small metal parts will also get some red. Don't want to go overboard, just want to have red sticking out here and there. The tank is going to be left yellow for now, the rest of the bike is yellow too, but want to change the tank and side panels to black and perhaps the headlight cowl and front fork protectors to black too. They are all plastics so not going to paint them, will just polish them up. Might do the radiator shrouds (plastic ones) with the red paint, but will wait and see. When it's all done and I'm happy it's going to stay that way then I'll get a nice uncluttered graphics set for it. Most of the work on the SM is quick and easy, but it will also have to wait until the Strom had some loving first. The SM needs to be my reliable commuter until the Strom is back in once piece. That might mean that I pitch up at the August bank holiday meet on a DR-Z instead of a V-Strom :shy: (I'm sure I will dust you lot on any twisty road with it though and it's quicker off the line too!)
-
Flatten/polish can give you a stunning finish if done right (and edges devoid of paint if not...) - it removes the orange peel effect and small surface imperfections.
Wet flatten the finished paint with 1200/1500 wet & dry - I find using a little soap with it improves it further.
Once it's all flattened back then attack it with the polish until all trace of the sanding is polished out.
p.s. bars are here: cheers mate.
-
What Mr Nick says and +1 for soap (or Fairy Liquid). Its done after your final topcoat of paint or laquer. First time takes a bit of courage to take 1500 wet and dry to your newly painted component! I wasn't suggesting it for small metal parts on the SM - I only suggested you have a practice with flatting back and polishing with cutting compound on something small that will be pennies to repaint if it goes wrong! I thought you were going to change the colour of the Wee - hence the reference to Plastics and tank and a few practices on small parts will pay dividends.
-
I see, I've never heard of doing it this way before. The question for me is whether I will then have to keep polishing things to keep it shiny or if the effect is permanent. I would guess permanent?
-
Its permanent. Its not 'polish' as such, cutting compound is more like Autosol for paint. Once the orange peel effect has been eliminated and you have a glossy 'factory' finish then protect it with wax polish or some such. Treat it as a normal paint finish - which is what it is, and polish it regularly or ignore as is your won't! As I said earlier, I've never done it with VHT but as long as the paint has gone hard then I can think of no reason why you won't be delighted with the finish you can achieve. Try on some small bits first though. Repeating myself now - I'll get me coat!!
-
I'm going to bake the case savers over the weekend and then I will experiment on them. I have some 1500 grit and a bottle of dish washing liquid in the garage :thumb: Making more work for myself here, but we'll just say it's all in the pursuit of knowledge and experience! A noble cause, surely?
-
Took a lot more pictures for "before" purposes today. Added them to the album, link in the OP :thumb:
-
T-cut will work as it's a cutting compound, right?
-
It will - but its a heck of a lot of effort for small reward. Best use proper cutting compound. I use G3 regular grade from an auto paint supplier and although I'm no expert I've had some good results.
-
Get the right G3 though: the stuff Halfrauds sells isn't much better than t-cut and is aimed at the detailing crowd - why someone would want to spend days polishing their old Saxo is beyond me...
You need to go to a proper auto paint supply and get the yellow bottle G3: while you're there, get some of their other products as they're bloody good.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/92126794/DSC_0204.jpg)
-
that's the stuff! Although, I use the paste in a tube. Brilliant stuff and worth the money
-
Mad Phil is lending me his sandblasting cubicle which will make things a helluva lot easier than using sandpaper and wire wheels on a drill. I'm also considering getting some of the bits sandblasted and powder coated now instead of spraying it myself. Will cost me more, but will likely come out better looking and last much longer. I'm still doing the engine and exhaust myself though. Perhaps I will just get the frame and wheels powder coated and do the rest myself. Still haven't quite made my mind up. I'll be getting a quote so will decide after that. There is some satisfaction to be had by doing some of it myself so that factors into the decision too.
-
Mmmm, a blasting cabinet: on my wish list....
Proper blasting & powder coat will leave you with a better looking and more substantial finish but a lighter wallet as well: there will be plenty for you to do yourself for it still to be your resto while still getting the bigger bits done for you.
There is something satisfying about spending days effectively just getting back to where you started but knowing it was all your own work.
-
I've had a think and decided I will get the frame, sub frame, swingarm, engine bars and wheels powder coated. I might add to that list, but I don't think anything on it will get removed. The other little things I'm going to sandblast and spray myself.
-
Those first few pics remind me of my old bandit. Vinegar, autosol, acf50, various auto glym products etc....keeping it looking fresh was like a never ending resto project! One of the reasons we parted ways and I swore no suzooks for ages. That didn't last long!
-
Just got home after work a short while ago. I'm now on leave for the whole of next week and the Monday of the following week. The good lady has reserved next Friday to Monday for a trip to somewhere near Woolacoombe for her birthday, but the rest of the time is me & Strom time.
I have to strip things down first so the get things sandblasted and powder coated, but before all the works starts I had to something more urgent: have a beer!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_nxf4i0gHDc/Uela2RvbAyI/AAAAAAAADyk/P0Bztyi8Qfw/s800/IMG_0065.jpg)
Been ill and on meds for the best part of 3 weeks and I was craving a very cold one to go with the heat we've been having. I also think it's a great way to get out of the work mood and into the holiday mood and a good start to the bike restoration :grin:
ps. Not my usual poison, but I'm giving a few different beers that I don't usually drink a try to see what they're like.
-
:thumb: Always a good way to start the weekend! :occasion-balloons:
-
Spent most of the afternoon tidying the garage, making space available and gathering various containers for putting things in as I strip them off. Headed to Mad Phil's and picked up his sandblasting cabinet so that I can clean the smaller stuff myself. Had a quick dinner and proceeded with the stripping taking pictures as I go. I'll work through all the pictures later and put them up, probably next weekend. Decided I would sandblast the fork brace so I can see the kind of finish I should expect. Ran into a bit of an issue at this point, my compressor can't handle the air volume needs. I only have a small tank and it pressures up to 8 bar then the compressor cuts out. If I use any air attachment there is a significant pressure drop on the gauge (goes as low as 1 bar) and then it stays there while blowing out air. The tank empties rather quickly, but this is nothing new for me. So am I right in thinking that my tank is too small and that as soon as I let air out the pressure drops because of it. Will getting a bigger tank solve the issue?
Edit: This (http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/air-compressor1-5hp-24-litre-oil-free) is the compressor I have.
-
A bigger tank will help to an extent but it will only be to prolong the drain time but also the fill time will go up as well. If the compressor side was upto the job it would be able to hold at a reasonable pressure.
You really need a decent compressor that can provide the air volume at the pressure the cab needs: some compressors will say they can do 8cfm but it's not at 100psi.
-
The reason I'm thinking it's the tank rather than the compressor is that this sand blasting cabinet works on Mad Phil's tank when the compressor is not running. It runs off the tank alone and then when the pressure in the tank gets to below 4 bar the compressor kicks back in.
Could it have something to do with the regulator not flowing enough air? If I set it to 8 bar the gauge shows 8 after the compressor turns off. If I then set it lower you can hear the air blow off to regulate the pressure to the lower number. If I turn it back up it goes back up to near 8 again. So there is pressure in the tank by the looks of it, but it might not have enough volume or the regulator isn't letting it out quick enough?
-
Sorted it, was the regulator. Took it apart and it looked like it has half a bottle of Loctite in it. Cleaned it all out and put it back together and I'm getting good pressure now. Compressor runs all the time when using the sand blasting cabinet. It's only a small one, but it'll have to do for now.
-
Wheres the before @ after pics of the blasting ??
-
I took loads of pics today as I went along with the stripping. I also have before and after of the fork brace, only did the smaller part of it. Haven't done anything else, the compressor doesn't keep the pressure high enough for the blasting to work all that well and I'm struggling to see what I'm doing.
Will put some pics up when I've gone through them.
-
Comparison pic for the sandblasting on the fork brace. I have a shitty camera and it blurs sometimes when I move or it focusses on something else.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pyBuPpBsX3I/UervZjm0XlI/AAAAAAAAD2w/dECEVHlp4M4/s800/IMG_0071.JPG)
-
I also added 126 photos to the album today. Many of them are just taken for myself to remember which bolts/rubbers/washers/wires/cables/pipes/etc. go route where.
I spent most of the afternoon stripping it down some more and took some pics of it from each side at intervals. I'll put them below, but have a look at the album too, lots of pics of corrosion and dirt that will need to be sorted out.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FjxysRgNj9Y/UervbxBbnvI/AAAAAAAAD3s/iykWb1y6MtA/s800/IMG_0079.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Qjh0koOZsZY/UervcIKuzUI/AAAAAAAAD4A/Comdh4saIEs/s800/IMG_0080.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mBna3ybY8Zk/UerxEKnx4RI/AAAAAAAAD9k/2bxsRbkHwN4/s800/IMG_0143.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bwCTvS8dnI4/UerxEZPMk_I/AAAAAAAAD9s/IrlxLe3VY-k/s800/IMG_0144.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GlCUPeejeVM/UerxQBLmw-I/AAAAAAAAECc/SkG3M-_dW_g/s800/IMG_0193.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-AnBvdEkhd_Q/UerxQGkhVFI/AAAAAAAAECY/Mzbtn9eez6Y/s800/IMG_0194.JPG)
And one showing the rust on the headlight cowl frame:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8otQlmsy4IE/UervUEWAltI/AAAAAAAAD0s/eSq3UaIjBCg/s800/IMG_0029.JPG)
-
Ended up trading Mad Phil some beer to borrow his compressor as well. It's only slightly higher rated than mine, but it seems to work properly with the sandblasting cabinet.
Otherwise I've things were slow today. I continued stripping and, assuming I can get the exhaust off, the engine will come out tomorrow. My front cylinder's header seems to be stuck where it goes into the connecting pipes. I might have to cut it off, but I'm hoping it doesn't come to that. I've stripped off the airbox, throttle bodies, bash plate and related bits, drained the fluids, took the radiator off, loosened the exhaust and removed the foot pegs. It seems I need new foot peg mounts, but I might still be able to salvage what I have with a bit of luck.
I uploaded 45 pics to the album today, here are a few.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KYKueR7-c60/UewhmWYE7_I/AAAAAAAAEDs/Cqzo-keC8BI/s800/IMG_0021.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lbuIa4LgQns/UewhqyuNSAI/AAAAAAAAEFI/F6k35pu0Rnc/s800/IMG_0040.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PVemzSm0kzA/UewhxLfmBUI/AAAAAAAAEHI/vOOOolfDkp0/s800/IMG_0061.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C0GYMWkpUEI/UewhxW1iTfI/AAAAAAAAEHQ/iFeB0THOn40/s800/IMG_0063.JPG)
-
Struggling my arse off to get the exhaust off the bike. The front header down pipe has rusted onto the 2 into other pipe and also seems to be fused to the cylinder head. Can't shift it at all and I don't want to hit it hard with something else than the rubber hammer I tried. Considering cutting things apart with a hacksaw/grinder.
I'm now considering buying a full system to replace the whole thing with (which means my titanium Scorpion end can and link pipe will be up for grabs.) Either that or buying an old K4-6 system from eBay and putting my end can back on. Decisions, decisions... Can anyone recommend a full system, must have a bung hole for the standard O2 sensor?
-
Mine needed a good few hefty boots and wiggling back and forth with a length of wood before it came free from the front cylinder head (~50k miles). give it a bit more welly :thumb:
-
(Lots of) heat usually helps although I expect you know that. If you can borrow an oxy-acetylene (or MAPP gas) set that might do the trick.
-
Took me a good 30 minutes, but managed to get the exhaust off. Like my old man (a diesel mechanic) says: "It doesn't have a mother or a father so it doesn't have a will!" Meaning it will bend to my will :) It did bend a little, right where I hit it numerous times, but I think it will need replacement anyway. The joint on the collector pipe has a quarter rusted away. At least the header pipes seem usable.
The Strom is now almost completely stripped, just need to take the brake discs off, knock some bearings out, get the tyres removed and strip the forks. I'm going to be doing all that tomorrow along with a big cleaning session and then it's off to the powdercoater.
I uploaded 84 pictures today, here's a few:
Shortly after I started, in a good mood, enjoying myself and 'keeping hydrated', as you should in this kind of heat :grin:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-naCqVbWGVhU/Ue2rKIfZmvI/AAAAAAAAEJc/pAW0C30ujNg/s800/IMG_0006.JPG)
Exhaust off :lala:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-K4aS7yHsop8/Ue2rKj_hNJI/AAAAAAAAEJs/EY6AEkdF90c/s800/IMG_0007.JPG)
Used the provided threaded holes, stuck a bolt in it with some chain and rope to lower the engine with:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WKRXLxgeyik/Ue2rOMZh5zI/AAAAAAAAEKw/QnCsSp7OnSI/s800/IMG_0025.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FRpVDR7X6pY/Ue2rO_kGhpI/AAAAAAAAELM/a_S8Z5KRXNg/s800/IMG_0029.JPG)
Engine dropped (not literally!)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nVxMtv_AxLU/Ue2rPiH5MWI/AAAAAAAAELU/oPumTPEyc6g/s800/IMG_0031.JPG)
Not too bad looking for 100k+?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JM4aBy4uvbg/Ue2rQmlXEMI/AAAAAAAAEL4/NunzXJpVY6A/s800/IMG_0039.JPG)
Looks a bit naked now...
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-w2Kk_1obci8/Ue2rRW818II/AAAAAAAAEMQ/I8gCQzsMfCU/s800/IMG_0043.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cPLrl5HEQ-U/Ue2rRvG_CGI/AAAAAAAAEMU/xVdaHICWLr8/s800/IMG_0046.JPG)
Brakes, wiring and cables stripped off:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NRmf6si8XcA/Ue2rZvoSq9I/AAAAAAAAEPM/4UnBTk4Y-PQ/s800/IMG_0075.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dzV6ySWu_dE/Ue2raFlrXbI/AAAAAAAAEPw/0X7DC0891hQ/s800/IMG_0076.JPG)
Rear master cylinder cheese bolts, rounded off immediately and then the filings that came out stuck to the allen socket tip. Shitty stainless is that magnetic.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1-x8v7fGhIc/Ue2raemnaCI/AAAAAAAAEPs/af-r8lP3b2k/s800/IMG_0077.JPG)
Had to grind the heads off after cutting grooves and hitting them just didn't yield any results. This was a massive waste of time that could've been avoided by Suzuki using normal bolts instead of shitty stainless button head ones that were screwed into aluminium. Those just fuse together over time, chemical reaction or something like that. I'm going to need another heel plate, this one's damaged.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c6-2PCNCm3U/Ue2rckkgNUI/AAAAAAAAERQ/ruVX-2Ado_0/s800/IMG_0087.JPG)
Those bolts are so shitty I could break bits off them with a vice grip. I have no idea if I will be able to get them out of there without damaging the master cylinder. That's a problem for another day.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UJ2aNFzpwcw/Ue2rc9NVcRI/AAAAAAAAEQk/TneGAhor4JA/s800/IMG_0088.JPG)
This one was my fault, I used an A2 stainless bolt that screws into the aluminium swingarm and it looks like I forgot to coat it with something so that the two don't react. Yay for road salt aggravating the problem...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-81cQwLSFxx8/Ue2rdyV2vNI/AAAAAAAAEQ0/c-sWVDDn9v8/s800/IMG_0089.JPG)
Sub frame off:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a_ZZq_rqXuU/Ue2re1fxRPI/AAAAAAAAERU/a7lYgvb3xkU/s800/IMG_0092.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HZXYHQc6gEU/Ue2rfPioEmI/AAAAAAAAERc/Wf0XllBfWq8/s800/IMG_0094.JPG)
Forks off:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M3US86S-VGg/Ue2rgJMG6tI/AAAAAAAAER0/iz-E-YxwrmM/s800/IMG_0101.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dvqE5SWYVyM/Ue2rg_kyGXI/AAAAAAAAESM/vum_OB9AQBA/s800/IMG_0103.JPG)
Rear wheel out:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6bhQbYogBIM/Ue2rhwX_LQI/AAAAAAAAESs/SMjGXS6vadU/s800/IMG_0106.JPG)
Swingarm off:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EzVj1ElzRZ0/Ue2rikAGXaI/AAAAAAAAESw/rPpphVA0-Pw/s800/IMG_0109.JPG)
Done for the day:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3eWTwcpPDrU/Ue2riwlFTcI/AAAAAAAAES4/h_siJvy6n4w/s800/IMG_0112.JPG)
-
Brilliant!!!
-
:shock: :clap:
-
..... Done for the day .....
:shock:
If that was my bike and I had to put it back together, then it would be more a case of "done forever"
-
Picked up a 2nd hand rear brake master cylinder that appears to be in good condition. Has the guard plate attached and it's from the looks I'm hoping that it doesn't need any new seals. All in for £24 so that's a bargain as the rebuild kit for mine and finding the plate would probably cost more than that :lala:
I decided I'm going to try find the exhaust bits from a breaker rather than buying a complete new system. Should work out a lot cheaper and I'll keep my trusty Scorpion titanium can then. I might make it a bit shorter, just and inch or two, but still just thinking about it, not sure if I will do it.
-
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/23/egeqypez.jpg)
. 2
-
Do you still need them?
. 2
-
Yep, and need one for the left side too. I'll PM you :)
-
Today was slow, I spent some time calling around about 2nd hand exhaust and ordering stuff I need (like 20kg of rags...) Spent a lot of time stripping the last few things off, removing discs from the wheels and so on. Also spent time on removing stuck bolts and nuts. There was a nut on my pannier rails that needed grinding off, a disc bolt that needed a groove ground into it and then some persuasion with a punch and a hammer and a bolt holding one of the centre stand mounts that needed some effort to get out. I'm a bit surprised (and happy with the fact) that there were very few bolts/nuts that I couldn't get out first try even though a lot of them looked well dodgy. A lot of them will get replaced with good bolts when it all goes back together to avoid future troubles. I hate button head Allen bolts after stripping the bike, they all just seem to loosen right before it feels that they are about to start rounding out (my Allen sockets are decent quality.)
The swingarm bearings are gonners, I knew that anyway, have some spares that's been lying around waiting. My rear cushion linkage bearings are falling apart again. I replaced them just over 25k ago, but they are quite exposed and seem to get all the water and salt chucked right at them. I figure replacing them every 25k probably isn't so bad compared to the alternative of greasing them very often. I also have a suspicious that I might have used the wrong grease when I put them in last time, I need to use a waterproof grease this time. My top centre engine mounting bolt came out quite corroded, like there's been water in there. I've heard in the past that there can be an oil leak problem so I guess water is better than oil :) It's probably just trapped moisture taking it's toll, it will clean up easily anyway and it doesn't look like the bolt's integrity is compromised.
I only uploaded 13 pictures today and they are a bit blurry/out of focus (this old Canon digital camera is past it's "use by" date :grin: )
The removed rear brake disc bolt, it was a royal PITA :GRR:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yNv3lr8GIXY/Ue6zkk7WiFI/AAAAAAAAETU/I0NuPizDraQ/s800/IMG_0009.JPG)
The swingarm bearings looking a bit rotten:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bWVPxZ_j-bU/Ue6zld_eqfI/AAAAAAAAET0/LZdkoNA6ZxI/s800/IMG_0017.JPG)
What's left of my cushion linkage bearings...
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_UUQbb6hu9g/Ue6zlovAxAI/AAAAAAAAETs/_PS9USVJSQg/s800/IMG_0018.JPG)
Tomorrow I have to get the tyres off the rims and then things are ready to take in to the powder coater. I'm going to have to wait until Friday to take it to the powder coaters, I'll have the use of the car in the morning before we leave for a weekend away (hope the good lady isn't angry at me for doing bike stuff on her birthday! I'm bribing some good will from her with a Kindle Paperwhite :grin: )
-
Just had a thought, does anyone know if the Vee front side panels fit the Wee? :shrug:
Edit: seems they can't be swapped, but I can't find out why not.
-
Today was a slow one, I slept late, woke up with a headache and lounged around a bit before starting some work at well past 14:00 :shy::shy: :shy:
Spent a lot of time getting a bolt out that holds the ignition switch in. Seem almost all the bolts I struggle with are damned dome head bolts, this one is a security torx bolt. In theory torx screws are better than Allen ones, but when things are stuck then a torx screw rounds out just as easily as an Allen one. These had red Loctite on them so were even worse to get out. I know red isn't a 'grade' of Loctite strength, but I can tell you that on this Wee blue Loctite is less of a PITA to get undone then red Loctite is.
Other than that struggle I drained the fork oil and took some pictures of the bits boxes. 7 new pics added to the album today.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xMlPJk0SavM/UfAL2cnGvqI/AAAAAAAAEVQ/HaKVBiHw0rc/s800/IMG_0036.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g71BmOcym7k/UfAL2d9zCeI/AAAAAAAAEVM/AztfooOIaHo/s800/IMG_0039.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-JQgcNGeZyKE/UfAL209QE6I/AAAAAAAAEVs/LI7rLLPzkwg/s800/IMG_0045.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_N_eOecFAwo/UfAL3dptAOI/AAAAAAAAEVo/9cSSQm5ZORc/s800/IMG_0046.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5W8JPcauNqs/UfAL3sZYFcI/AAAAAAAAEVk/mBch6-PsfvE/s800/IMG_0050.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ExAjqFjaR-o/UfAL4ZrO8OI/AAAAAAAAEV0/_p4suyJfVYg/s800/IMG_0051.JPG)
Yes, I know, my pics are often blurry and that's after taking 3 or 4 pictures of the same thing and picking the best one of the lot. The old Canon camera is not the best, I think it's only 3.2MP, but I don't feel sorry for it when I pick it up with the dirtiest hands you can imagine (like covered in the stuff behind the sprocket cover.) The little camera just wipes clean afterwards and keeps working.
So everything is done getting taken apart except the lug from the swingarm that still attached to the chain guard. I forgot about that one. I need to get that lug off the chain guard and then I need to get it welded back onto the swingarm, again. I think I might get some reinforcement added this time and I'm not going to use a damned button head bolt again... Socket Allen cap bolts all the way now, at least you can drill into them when they round out and get some extractors into them (in theory.)
I'm starting to wonder if replacing bolts with stainless steel everywhere is a good idea. All of the bolts I'm having trouble removing are stainless steel that's welded onto whatever aluminium part they've been screwed into. Titanium is too expensive, aluminium can't take much stress. Maybe it's just a case of making sure it's a good quality stainless steel and using some grease to avoid it fusing to the aluminium. Someone who knows about this stuff, can you tell me if using moly grease would be the solution? I ask about moly specifically as I have a huge tub of the stuff.
-
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cPLrl5HEQ-U/Ue2rRvG_CGI/AAAAAAAAEMU/xVdaHICWLr8/s800/IMG_0046.JPG)
Hello, looks like your chain needs adjusting mate! lol
-
I replaced some fairing bolts just the other week with some aluminum replacements from ProBolt. God, I won't be doing that again, they were useless. May as well have been made of plastic.
-
I've not done anything today yet. Got up, had breakfast and then went off to have a hearing test done and ear moulds taken for my Ultimate Ear custom earplugs :lala: Hearing is very good except for a slight loss in high frequency range (6Khz), that's possibly the frequency my tinnitus is at so things are fine (it's only a very little bit under what's normal.) It might also be the frequency at which my good lady's voice normally works :grin: Otherwise I have excellent hearing and was praised for taking good care of my hearing with earplugs on the bike and ear defenders when working with something loud in the garage (grinding, drilling, air compressor running, etc.)
Took the scenic route back, was on the SM, roads are a tad slippery even though it was mostly dry. On the way back I stopped off at the place that will do the powder coating to check when they open as I'm planning on taking the bits in tomorrow morning before we leave for our long weekend away. I also found an engineering shop that can weld the broken swing arm lug back on. I'm going to get them to reinforce it and to do the same on the front lug. After that I'll take the swing arm to the powder coaters too. Since the sandblasting cabinet I borrowed from Mad Phil is very slow going (neither of our compressors are really up to the task) I've decided that I will get the place that does the powder coating to do the sandblasting on the small bits too. I will just spray the small bits myself, I've already had the paint delivered.
Stromtrooper James has been very generous by offering the exhaust I need for free, I just need to collect it from him in Derby which won't be a problem. Top man! :thumb:
I've decided I won't be opening the engine for a 'look' to see if it's fine. I'm going to be cleaning it thoroughly and then I'm going to spray it as is (masking off anything that shouldn't get sprayed.) I'll then take only the side covers and valve covers off as they will get sprayed a different colour. I want to do them off the bike as I want to get a very good finish, particularly on the side covers. The side covers will be made a darker shade of grey/silver than the rest of the engine. The valve covers I'm still undecided about, I'm thinking I want to make them bright red, but might make them the same as the side covers. I've also been thinking that I want to put in titanium exhaust studs with flange nuts, rather than using bolts, but I have to make sure that titanium is suitable for use in this application and how to adapt the torque figures. I might do the same thing for the SM while I'm at it.
The exhaust will get sprayed flat black with VHT Flame Proof paint. The small bits (header pipes) will be cured in the oven, the larger pipes will be cured on the bike if I can't fit it in the oven. I'm going to have a very good excuse for putting an exhaust pipe in the oven, the good lady just had it valet cleaned this Tuesday and they did a really good job of it.
I'm thinking of replacing the radiator, mine needs a lot of love before it will be in decent nick again. Lots of bent fins on it too, going to be a real PITA. If I can get one in good condition 2nd hand somewhere I might buy it, else I'm going to have to live with the one I have. I'm also thinking I might replace the radiator hoses with some coloured Samco ones, probably orange, maybe even red. I'm pretty sure the SV650 kit they sell will fit the Wee, but will just have to double check it.
I forgot about the wheels, need to get the tyres off before I can get them powder coated, hopefully I can get that done on Monday afternoon, else it'll have to wait for next weekend. Then again, I have some tyre levers, I just need to get the bead broken... If I have time today I might have a go at that.
So this afternoon I have to get the lug off the chain guard, clean everything and get those tyres off. At least my 6 boxes of vinyl gloves (got them for an absolute bargain on an eBay auction) got delivered yesterday so I should have enough for all the cleaning :) Too bad my 20kg of rags haven't arrived yet :bawl:
More pics tonight of the cleaning and so on.
-
I have a bead breaker you can use. It's agricultural, but it works. 'tis a bit big for carrying on the bike though.
-
Think I'm just going to find a place tomorrow morning that can take them off. Tubeless tyres are a PITA to get off anyway, at least, they were when I tried before. Thanks for the offer though :)
-
Spent the afternoon getting the chain guard lug detached from the chain guard, taking the forks apart and cleaning various bits.
4 photos uploaded, I've put them all below.
Another fekking dome head Allen bolt giving me trouble ### ### ###
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EMQgaTAi4fY/UfGSZhDJVEI/AAAAAAAAEWQ/KLvZk9CMx44/s800/IMG_0006.JPG)
Swingarm washed:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a42tcDUxs3s/UfGSZpAuHGI/AAAAAAAAEWc/MKVtyEBaOhY/s800/IMG_0007.JPG)
Frame washed:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2VNsXBgM4xw/UfGSZzfwSVI/AAAAAAAAEWU/kmhRZQ9hDHg/s800/IMG_0009.JPG)
Chain guide, cushion linkage, chain guard, fork lowers and stanchions all washed:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FLl5BZHuSAw/UfGSaOzztKI/AAAAAAAAEWY/KKg3I0I0IWY/s800/IMG_0012.JPG)
If you look carefully you can see where the rear chain guard lug has broken off and the lug itself cable tied to the other one (swingarm on the right.)
I was dirty as hell after all that, had grime behind my knees!
-
Forgot to mention, I also received my 20kg of rags today. It turns out it's just a box full of old flannel shirts, but I can't really complain for the price. Had the 2nd hand rear brake master cylinder and reservoir delivered to me today as well. Both are in good condition and the bloke who sent it left the brake fluid inside :crazy: It also included the bracket for bolting the reservoir to the frame and it's in much better condition than mine. Heel plate is in good nick too so I'm very happy with the purchase. The rear brake pipe was included, but I don't need that so if anyone needs one just pay the postage.
-
Have you really got a list of everything that's in each box? Looks like a jigsaw puzzle that doesn't come with a picture.
-
Nope, just relying on my not so perfect memory :grin: As long as it doesn't stay in bits too long I should be able to put it back together. I also have all the photos I've taken for reference.
My insurance ended today, I SORNed it, or rather I SORNed a bunch of parts. Tax expires early August too so nothing much lost as I can't get a refund. Once it's back together I'll get Bikesure to add it to the DR-Z's policy and then get it MOTed and taxed.
-
Quick update: swingarm taken to the engineering shop to get the lug welded back on (all for at tenner, result!)
Got the tyres taken off the rims for free with a "as long as you come back to us to fit them again" and a nice cheery Friday smile from the receptionist. Told her they are the only place in town that I could find that changes them and will do it quickly so I'll be back in about a month or so. Didn't have time to drop everything else off at the powder coaters.
Will pick the swingarm up on Monday, my blind bearing puller was delivered this morning so I can then take the bearings out of everything (hopefully Monday afternoon) and get everything over to the powedercoaters in one or two trips.
Running a bit behind schedule, but happy with what I got done this week. I'm going to have to wait for the powdercoating anyway so I'll have time to sort out the engine over the next couple of weeks.
-
Looks like you're doing well :)
-
As long as you don't leave it as long as I did you should be okay relying on memory. Until you come to bolts: which was the long one again...... :shrug:
-
Been away for a few weeks so just caught up on the thread , great work Juv :thumb: .
Regarding the bolts/fixings , all the ones that are still in good useable condition could be replated at a very small cost . I've used these in the past http://www.pdpix.eclipse.co.uk/pddp/REP ... 20page.htm (http://www.pdpix.eclipse.co.uk/pddp/REP%20Header%20Footer%20Frames%20page.htm) as they are quite local to me . I'm sure there would be a company local to yourself that would do them . I took all the bolts/fixings from the old James that I restored and collected them later the same day , 90% of them looked like new and all for £20 .
-
Thanks Locky, I'll ask the bloke that's going to rechrome my forks if he does something like this. There are some very dodgy looking bolts too, particularly the ones that hold the centre stand mountings in place. I doubt I'll get them out next time so I'm going to replace all those. Think I'm going for new bolts on engine casings and fairings, want the stuff you can see to look new and clean. I have a couple of weeks to do a bit of research and get things ordered before it goes back together.
I also decided to keep my clocks black, was considering making them white backed before. Might just take them apart for a clean and some protective spray on the PCB and thinking I might recolour the needles, they look a bit faded and a nice orange will continue the theme. I'm quite happy with the wiring loom, most connectors are looking good, but there's the odd thing here and there that needs some attention, particularly the heated grips connection. I'm going to sort that and the injector wiring out. I want to use the heated grip connection as my main switched feed trigger. Also want to install headlight relays, possibly a dual setup, and wire in my Garmin power cable while I have things apart. I'm also going to install the Stebel Nautilus compact air horn, almost forgot about it already.
I should start making a to do list really...
-
That link tries to run an iffy application that Firefox doesn't like - do you have contact details for the Redditch company as I have some Matchless parts to plate?
Many thanks
-
The website seems mostly Flash based, this tablet doesn't like it either.
-
Redditch Electroplating .
Argent Works
Arrow Road North
Lakeside
Redditch B98 8NT
Telephone: 01527 63858
Fax: 01527 591504
email: mark@redditch-ep.co.uk
They are a 10 min drive from J3 on the M42 ..
When I've used them in the past I've just called in and dealt with the blokes on the shop floor , they can show you the different plating they do . The Matchless bolts will need Cadmium plating like the originals .
-
Thanks for that - I'll pop in and have a chat when I'm in the area.
I don't think anybody does cadmium these days.
-
They still do cadmium unless they stopped since they done my James bits ..
-
That link tries to run an iffy application that Firefox doesn't like
Yep, it's a pretty hideous Java based site :GRR:
-
Just read this thread and I know its a bit late for you, but in the past when Allen bolts have rounded off I have managed to get slightly larger torx bits to fit (OK hammered in gently) with success.
Best of luck with this though its a big project.
Keith C
-
just seen this on flea bay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-dl-650 ... 1e6d2ba811 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-dl-650-DL650-v-strom-k7-ABS-model-job-lot-of-bolts-and-fixings-/130680596497?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item1e6d2ba811)
-
Had a look at that before, concluded it's not worth buying it as most my bolts are about the same condition, albeit a bit more furry in some cases :)
-
Got home today after a weekend away. Picked up my swingarm, they only charged me a tenner to weld the rear chain guard fixing lug on and to reinforce the front one.
Spent some time removing the bearings from the sprocket carrier hub, the swingarm and the wheels.
Added 11 pics.
Rear chain guard fixing lug back on:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-J60JgTE98xU/Ufa2MBDBRXI/AAAAAAAAEWw/Z4KMd28uOwY/s800/IMG_0003.JPG)
They gave it some light marks with a grinder, but I will clean those up a little and the sandblasting and powder coating will hide it properly:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-GUPyg7OClBI/Ufa2MsPVpFI/AAAAAAAAEX4/T03LBmchO8Q/s800/IMG_0006.JPG)
Also gave the front fixing some reinforcing weld (also needs a bit of a clean):
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vZbJAkZPX7c/Ufa2MJF9PYI/AAAAAAAAEW4/XiybDOWQ9SQ/s800/IMG_0005.JPG)
I must say, the money spent on the cheap blind bearing puller was worth it. Much easier than hammering it out. I need to add bearings to my buy list, at least I have the swingarm ones already.
-
Top thread. Keep it coming.
-
Back from my hols and enjoying all the action...Keep up the excellent work, all that hard reading has made me tired!!
:star:
-
Only 1 star?! :bawl:
-
After work today I figured I should remove the cushion linkage bearings. Knowing what a complete fekking PITA they were the previous time I was hoping that it would be easier this time as I had the blind bearing puller. It soon became apparent that I've used up all my good karma for the year...
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-eYVjC6Bt4Yo/Uff41W5LugI/AAAAAAAAEYY/mvv_A0tXjI4/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
This is why buying cheap tools is usually false economy :GRR: I was hoping the bearing pullers would at least last until I got the cushion linkage bearings out, but I was hoping for to much. I couldn't get a single bearing out, they are all destroyed and I have to come up with some clever idea now else they are going to stay in there until they completely rust out (which is not going to be for the next few decades yet.)
On the bright side, the head bearing races were a doddle, even easier than when I replaced them. I had a big drift this time that fitted very well and it was a few knocks each side per race and they were out.
-
This is why buying cheap tools is usually false economy
A garage owning acquaintance of mine always spouted a saying: good tools make you lazy....
I know it'll take a long time but can you get inside the race with a hacksaw blade and cut enough of a slot to collapse it in a little?
-
I tried that, but the races are too hard for the hacksaw blade to make anything more than light marks on them. I might "have" to buy a Dremel after all :grin:
-
I usually manage to press them out in the vice using a couple of old sockets. If they're all coming out then application of a little heat won't go amiss either....
Iggy
-
One star so far....you haven't put it all back together yet.... :fix: :neen:
-
Have you tried running a line of MIG weld round inside the race? This often contracts it enough to get it out (and the heat helps) - at least it does with things like head races. Not sure about needle rollers though.
-
Wish I had a welder :) I'll try the socket idea, can see how it might work :thumb:
-
Won't the old 'tubes of differing diameters and threaded bar' system work here? It's good to keep old bearing races for this application.
-
The sockets and vice way did the trick for two of the ends :thumb:
The middle ones were too wide to fit into my small vice. I've put a bigger vice on the "to buy" list. I ended up beating them out.
Once you get the bearing to move then it's not much trouble after that to get them out.
I marked the surface of the hole where the middle bearings go in a bit, but it's just light scratches that won't cause any trouble. I hit the bigger bearing of the lot out, the one on the long end, and it went flying somewhere to be lost in some dark recess of the garage, couldn't find it at all.
Added 3 photos to the album today.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_HlbXvKKmsk/UfwXCrVEy8I/AAAAAAAAEZc/VYWaK1yb744/s800/IMG_0007.JPG)
I'm taking everything for sandblasting and powder coating tomorrow morning. Then I'm going to start cleaning the engine and removing the broken off sprocket cover bolts from when my chain snapped and sheared it off.
-
Does anyone know if it's possible to remove the bits inside the fork tube, at the bottom. If you've taken the tube out of the fork lowers so you just end up with the tubes, there's some bushing and bits in the bottom. I'm getting the forks rechromed, but I have a feeling these need to be removed and I can't find any information on how to do this. I don't want to damage something that might be hard to get.
Edit: if a picture will help, let me know.
Edit 2: the parts fiche doesn't show that as a separate part
-
I was loading everything into the car this morning when I noticed I'd forgotten to remove the two small needle cup bearing from the swingarm (where the dog bones bolt to.) Thought I'd try to get them out with the broken puller, but then it just broke apart more. Cheap crap, I need to buy a good quality puller.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qQ7IrMMKfNg/Uf2JQIBCGCI/AAAAAAAAEbI/VFDntY7KZR8/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
Left the bearings in, loaded it all up, ready to take to the get blasted and coated.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ncf7nvnsVxo/Uf2JQAWwKwI/AAAAAAAAEbM/Mnj28wMwi-c/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
The powdercoater isn't usually open on Saturdays, I didn't know. I got lucky though, he was finishing some work which had to be done so I could drop the stuff off. Told him to blast everything, what to coat gloss black and the rest will be satin black. He sends it away to get blasted, I wasn't aware of this. My luck was out though, the place he uses is now closed for 2 weeks for holiday. I won't have the bits back in time to put the bike back together for the August meet so I'll be coming on the SM.
When I got back home I cut my old bearings open. I like taking the balls out, I keep them, but I'm not sure for what :crazy: I suspected the sprocket carrier bearing will look bad because I slightly damaged the seal when I first put it in. I was right, it was a mess, the rest of the wheel bearings were OK though, like new actually.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z5OAezDIZRA/Uf2JQIixACI/AAAAAAAAEbE/2FLP2038080/s800/IMG_0008.JPG)
-
Just got a stainless GPR system for a good deal :lala:
-
like taking the balls out
Ooh er mrs
-
Off to go collect my new exhaust! :lala: Pics will be on later :thumb:
-
Jeez! Been away a while and you've gone napheeded on Your old Strom. Excellent! (We should have one of those popcorn-munching smileys on here!) :thumb:
-
:shrug: napheeded?
-
Er, just means 'mentally over the top' - but in an entirely good way, I do assure you, my good sir :grin:
And its going to be orange? Good move as well :thumb:
-
As promised, photos of the "new" exhaust, I uploaded 8 pictures to the album.
It's a G.P.R. 2-1 Grand Prix Evolution (GPE) Stainless with link pipes to the headers (as seen here. (http://www.gpr-motorcycle-exhausts.co.uk/1519/Suzuki-V-STROM-650-Exhaust---2-1-GPE-Stainless.html))
The seller claims he paid £450 for it, but he might have been done in or the price included fitting or he was talking bollocks. He also claims it was only on the bike for a month and has only done 200 miles, but you can see right away that this isn't the case, it's been used a bit more than 200 miles. It is in very good condition though and I'm happy with it.
All the bits:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-43ZW7QHgauE/Uf6Ysu3RWGI/AAAAAAAAEcg/Q2MgjGXFmz0/s800/IMG_0010.JPG)
He hit the link pipe with something sharp when he split them, I'll have to take it off:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ztiFJgviVDM/Uf6Yp8OWMNI/AAAAAAAAEb4/XZjeaAnTWN0/s800/IMG_0005.JPG)
The only other marks are on the bottom 2 into 1 joint pipe. He claims the centre stand hit the bracket, but that doesn't explain the other little marks. None of them are deep enough to cause problems so I'm not even going to touch them:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-adUlHlglGoY/Uf6Yp_0Uu3I/AAAAAAAAEb0/lFk1hNYyUMk/s800/IMG_0003.JPG)
You can see it's good stainless steel based on the colouring it has after it got some heat. The exhaust is a quality product, but I knew that already as I saw Locky's before. I'm considering spraying all the bottom pipes with VHT Flame Proof, but might just do the headers and leave the stainless exposed. If it starts looking dodgy later I can always clean it up and spray the rest.
-
Was this from a bloke in Birmingham?
-
Yep, why?
-
I was looking at eBay and saw it and thought it looked good for a mate of mine he obviously didn't go for it then
-
Yes they are well made exhaust systems . You may need to fit a standard air filter Juv as the GPR is a lot more free flowing than the standard system and could run very lean . I've read somewhere that its best to keep the standard filter but can't remember where ! I let my BMC air filter go with my K5 Wee for this reason ..
-
I'm going to finish building the Yoshi box, in fact I had to rebuild it because we couldn't find the fault with it. After it's all back together I will get the Wee on a dyno with a K&N air filter in (freshly cleaned and oiled) and the GPR on. Will see how it runs and adjust as needed :)
-
I've just booked the fork stanchions in to get cleaned and rechromed at www.marquerestore.co.uk (http://www.marquerestore.co.uk)
There's about a 6 week wait, but they come on recommendation and I've seen how good the results are for myself on an old Triumph someone was restoring. They've been around for more than half a century too so I'm confident it will be done properly so that I don't have to worry about the forks again. Best bit is that it will cost me less to rechrome both than it costs me to buy 1 new stanchion and the chrome will be better quality than on any new one you buy.
Things are spacing out a bit now, 2-3 weeks for the powder coating to get done, 6 weeks for the forks... It gives me plenty of time to do anything else without feeling like I need to rush it. The current plan is to have the bike back together before the end of September. I'm in the process of creating the list of all the little things I need to buy now and I'm pretty sure I've got most of it on there by now. It takes much more time than one imagines to find all the little bits at the best prices, literally hours that get spent on the internet. It's all in the interest of ending up with a good looking (and working!) bike.
I've received the Bagster samples too, some nice oranges in there and some "interesting" other colours. I've also sent email to the place I want to buy the vinyl wrap from to see if I can get some samples from them. I'm still not 100% decided on whether I will vinyl wrap the tank and just use a Bagster harness or if I'm not going to wrap the tank and just get a Bagster cover made in the right orange colour.
-
Spent some time after work in the garage, with the lovely weather having the garage door open and the radio on (it's always on when I'm in there) it's a good place to work in. I figured I need to start sandblasting the small bits I kept out so that I can get done with Mad Phil's sandblasting cabinet and compressor. I need to get them back to him sooner rather than later and I need the space in the garage. I figured I'd start with the cushion linkage, more because it was the first thing I saw when I looked for something to do than for any other reason.
I added 6 pics to the album today.
Before starting:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_PE32gj1PN8/UgFCaQJan6I/AAAAAAAAEdA/VRaHUAJ1qnY/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
After some filing, wire brushing, sand blasting and more wire brushing (in the holes):
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3ktrCvEYy0Y/UgFCbpp04JI/AAAAAAAAEdc/YhyYNVBitVA/s800/IMG_0010.JPG)
Masked off, ready for some paint at a later stage:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Hqvor-HrchQ/UgFCbwoseoI/AAAAAAAAEdY/OjcNuV1YATg/s800/IMG_0011.JPG)
The heated oxygen sensor threaded bung hole on the new GPR exhaust looked like it was too big, but I checked it and it's the right size :lala:
-
Are you going to fit grease nipples to all the bearing housings?
-
Nopes, I don't want to mess with the integrity of the cushion linkage and related bits. The other things that needs grease are things I can either used sealed bearings in (like wheels) or that I can get to easily (like brake and gear levers.)
-
Added 4 photos to the album today.
I just picked up the first thing that needed cleaning and sandblasting and it was the dog bones and associated bushes and fixings.
Before:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B37XbpPioeE/UgKVx86vSWI/AAAAAAAAEeA/RM4qBSljF7k/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
After:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zu1CABHHm84/UgKVx8m3VgI/AAAAAAAAEd8/NQegWxKpkRU/s800/IMG_0006.JPG)
I ran the wire brush wheel over the bushes and bolt shanks to polish them a bit as they will be moving in each other.
Had some time left before the good lady got home so I picked the top centre engine mounting bolt. Out of all the bolts that came out this one probably looks the worst.
Before:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xRnfHiOyQZo/UgKVx8VVLsI/AAAAAAAAEeI/liEvKI4cPdE/s800/IMG_0008.JPG)
After:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Lgpmo3AkPEY/UgKVyvaJ-gI/AAAAAAAAEeE/zRbeRRbC8QY/s800/IMG_0010.JPG)
Considering how long it's been in there it cleaned up better than I thought it would.
Also stopped by the powder coaters on the way home today and collected my old exhaust's link pipe as it no longer needs to get sandblasted. I figure I'll clean the old exhaust and link pipe up some time so I can sell them on.
-
I take it you're replacing those bushes - they should have a nice polished finish for the needle-roller linkage bearings to run against. Same with the 'top-hat' type ones that sit in the end of the swinging arm.
The one foremost in the 'before' picture looks especially bad. The other one looks pretty ropey on its left-hand end too.
Iggy
-
My thoughts as well. The surface the needle rollers run on should be hardened and ground.
-
Yep, I'm replacing them, not happy with how they look, even after the clean and polish. I don't fancy replacing those bearings any time soon again, it's a royal PITA.
-
Cleaned a few bits today, just odds and so on from the frame and subframe. Nothing special, only took a couple of photos. Sandblasted some of it, wire wheeled others, sandpapered a few and cleaned various rubbers and plastic bits. Kind of forgot to take photos after the first bunch, but it wasn't anything interesting anyway.
Only 2 photos uploaded today.
Sanblasted and wire wheeled, can't make up my mind whether the spacers are good enough to reuse or not. I think I'll reuse them, easy enough to replace seals and since I use sealed bearings they don't really serve much of a purpose. I'm thinking I need to get all these things plated/anodized, at the least the things that can't just be painted, have to look into my options.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hLDo95kArnw/UgP8nM2kd3I/AAAAAAAAEew/3F3zSX-LHqw/s800/IMG_0005.JPG)
-
I'd use those, no problem :thumb:
...but then, my bike's in bits too lol
-
you should see mine- yours look like new! and my bike is 60k less miles :shy:
-
I spent some time today looking at the state of the radiator and stripping the bits from it. The fan screws are all rusted tight. I can't get them off, a bit of force starts twisting the brackets they are mounted on. The radiator has a lot of fins that are damaged, but in general you can still see through it in most places. I know it doesn't leak so I know I can use it again. The sides have paint flaking off easily and this then reveals corroded aluminium below. I'm hoping I could repaint the sides so that it looks better. It will have the stainless steel Cymarc radiator cover over it anyway so you won't really see the fins. In future I think I need to be a bit more careful when I use the pressure washer on the bike :shy:
Added 7 pics to the album today.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I9Jp9PiCkjM/UgeP8p0CesI/AAAAAAAAEgo/T4iLXjvBqnA/s800/IMG_0026.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a7pwTASx3ns/UgeP8fuw1cI/AAAAAAAAEgg/wCa_VPNobgE/s800/IMG_0028.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tuZWCcFBOz4/UgeP-NRcyqI/AAAAAAAAEhI/9vpeZ_BRokk/s800/IMG_0039.JPG)
-
Come on... Get on with it you slacker.. :shrug:
-
Stop scribing patterns into your breeze block walls :angry-tappingfoot:
-
Oh...and get a proper hammer not one for Toffee.. :fix:
-
Oh.. and where is the album for photos ?? I can't locate it.. :obscene-drinkingchug:
-
it's in the first post about half way through
-
Brilliant.. Cheers :thumb:
-
great thread this - one quick (slightly OT) question - are you serious about the pressure washer comment? - can a Pressure washer bend the fins on the radiator?
only reason - the radiator on my 2011 Wee is in terrible condition - particularly the bottom, left side of the radiator (as you look at it as it is mounted) - could it be over-use of a pressure washer?
-
I really synpathize with you on the radiator Juv, having just done this repair recently. My DL650 is only three years old but it already had the tell tale bubbling on the radiator, especially around the corners and on the leading edge of the top and bottom parts of the rad.
(http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o693/D-Colada/df5aba86-6c22-4027-9c18-1876cdc58877_zps7fc1d0c2.jpg)
I started by inserting a blade under and into the area of the bubbling and scraped back all the loose paint. Under the paint the area was still wet with what looked like a salt solution "paste" ....
(http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o693/D-Colada/160a4b4b-cdb6-4e14-9a0f-1879cfc2a1ef_zpsae10dce2.jpg)
It had made a hellova mess of the metal underneath....
(http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o693/D-Colada/IMG_0769_zps9086af32.jpg)
I also had some damage to the radiator fins that looked to have been caused by routing clip ..
(http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o693/D-Colada/IMG_0827_zpsbf80c356.jpg)
I basically looked for any signs of paint damage on the radiator and cleaned it back using a combination of a craft knife and a Dremel and sanding disc. If I had a sandblaster I would have spent more time on it but as it was I wanted to focus my time on getting as many coats on the corrosion areas so I would never have to do this again. Thus the 'step' effect on the finished product that highlights the new and old paint job.
(http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o693/D-Colada/c1b0c136-fca8-4b3f-b662-71521eefe46a_zps24feb9dc.jpg)
I wanted to stay clear of the fins when respraying so masked them off and then got to work with the Hammerite smooth gloss black.
Masked off and ready to spray.
(http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o693/D-Colada/IMG_0780_zpsf2ea3f4f.jpg)
A washing line is always a welcome friend when laying down paint :-)
(http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o693/D-Colada/IMG_0783_zps7b06516a.jpg)
(http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o693/D-Colada/IMG_0782_zpsbfdcf4bb.jpg)
In the end I got about 5 layers of paint on thes repaired areas before I couldn't face any more and then left it to set overnight. A strange effect (may be the 'novice effect') is that by the time I get to coat number 4 I always find it much easier to get the layer to bubble and retain air, thus the slight over spray effect at the bottom of this picture. Maybe by this point I am simply laying it on too thick.
(http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o693/D-Colada/0b95a6ae-879a-496f-b9cd-e11f8e2c1685_zpsb7601b99.jpg)
That having been said, I was very happy with the result. You need the help of a mad scientist in order to grow the third arm needed (to remove and refit the radiator), but once you have that it's not too bad a process.
Here's the repair on a completed corner.
(http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o693/D-Colada/IMG_0785_zpsd7ef8dfb.jpg)
Oh, and sorry Juv, I don't mean to hijack your brilliant threat.
-
Nah, that's helpful. Your radiator fins look a lot better than mine does. It looks like that bracket is bent down a bit so it touches to top of your rad. Mine is in a real sorry state and I'm sure it's the pressure washer. It never looked like that before I got the pressure washer. I have a radiator cover on all the time, but the pressure washer will damage the fins when it gets through the holes. I figured I could tape the fins up with something like plastic or such that the sandblasting won't go through too easily. Then block all the holes and sandblast everywhere that will need new paint. I'm still in two minds though, I can get a 2nd hand one in good condition or get this one recored. Either way it's going to cost me so maybe I'll see if I can sandblast and paint it and if it comes out looking decent with the cover hiding the ugly fins then I'll just keep using it. It doesn't leak and I don't have cooling issues.
-
Way back in my youth I worked (briefly) for a firm that manufactured exhausts and radiators for Rover and Jag (before they were owned by every man and his dog). I got quite familiar with what would take damage and what would not on a radiator. You are right about the bracket. It looks like it had been bent down at some stage and that had crumpled the fins (the previous owner came clean on an issue with corrosion in the headlights that required some correction, so maybe the garage was a little rough when trying to check the wire routing). Or something like that.
Putting the radiator back in was fun, a bit like getting a filling at the dentist. But once you identify the key areas to make sure you have engaged in the right order it's not too bad. As I mentioned, a third arm comes in handy.
I made the mistake of trying to drop the whole thing out complete with the top plastic shroud. Until I realised that those three main electrical blocks were clipped to the top if the shroud - I was left there with the thing in my hand thinking "well this is fun".
-
I had an easier time getting it out as just about everything except the engine and the main wiring loom was already out. I think I'll make a point of putting it back in as soon as the engine is back in to avoid any hassle and to give me plenty of space from the top to put the plastic shroud back on.
-
My fancy LED bulbs for the rear light and the front park lights were delivered today :lala:
-
I'm finding coming home to 'presents' to be one of the more enjoyable bits of a restoration. Having to pay for them beforehand is less so.... :bawl: Today I got my new front brake lever & switch.
-
Got home and I had some other stuff waiting for me as well.
I bought 2x flush mount LED indicators (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281107016443) to see how they look and if they will work on the front and rear. They are a bit smaller than I thought, but higher quality than I thought they would be. They have a surface mount LED matrix and already have the 2 pin Jap style connector so they will plug right into the standard wiring loom connections. I think they are a bit small for my liking for using on the rear as well. I specifically bought 2 and not 4 so I could judge if they are good enough for the rear or not. I'll test them on the DR-Z to see how bright they are and if they are very visible from all angles, if so then I might fit them to the rear on the Strom anyway. If not then I have some alternatives in my watch list already.
Also had a 7 pin indicator relay for use with LED indicators waiting for me. This was a private sale on eBay, the bloke bought it and never used it so he sold it. I got it for a few quid less than they normally go for and it really is brand new, no marks on the contacts even.
I'm trying to not order too much ahead of when it will really be needed, but some things I have to get so that it's on hand when the bike goes together. Things like foot pegs and such can be changed later, but things such as wheel bearings can't wait. I'm getting paid tomorrow so it will be a big shopping spree this weekend to get all the bits needed for the bike to go back together properly.
-
I bought 2x flush mount LED indicators (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281107016443)
they look interesting - but I'm struggling to think how they will fit on the bike - are they kind of 'domed' and just don't have a stalk?
I'd imagine they will be very bright, but will the be visible from the front for oncoming traffic
I guess what I'm trying to say is... "Pics please!"
:)
-
Quite a few of us use flush indicators mainly on the front . Mine have normal bulbs and are more visible than the originals . The originals could damage the fairing if the bike ever went over .
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/64012197/20130616_171923.jpg)
-
These are quite a bit smaller than the ones you have, Locky. The base is flush mount via strong two way tape. It's also angled so the plan is to have them stuck on so that the angle is used to make them more visible. Can't really explain it easily and it will be a while before they get mounted and any pics can be taken.
-
Can't remember if I mentioned it... the vinyl samples were delivered. I specifically asked for an off cut at least the size of a cigarette packet in a few specific colours, but they didn't send the orange I was hoping to see in an off cut. They did have a brochure with smaller samples stuck inside and the gloss orange looks good to me. I need to order a few meters of the stuff and get wrapping so I can see how well it comes out, but I have other things to do before I get to that.
-
Hugely interested in this bit (the wrapping). Is this the cover for the tank?
-
Nope, I have 2 sets of samples. One from Bagster with vinyl tank cover samples and one from a place that sells the vinyl wrap (100 micron thick.) Ideally I want to wrap all the panels and the tank in vinyl because this will be much cheaper than wrapping all the panels, but getting a custom Bagster cover made for the tank. It would also mean I have to have the cover on all the time, in itself not a bad thing, but sometimes I'm just too lazy to put it back on if I know the tank is going to come off soon for other work too. If I vinyl wrap it all it protects the paint everywhere and I can just get a cheaper universal tank harness from Bagster than I can put on as needed and use on future bikes too. That reminds me, I need to buy a heat gun.
-
As said, I am very interested in this. Will you be providing photographic goodness? :text-coolphotos:
-
That's the plan :thumb:
-
just seen this and thought you may be interested
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... =1&theater (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=204515999713781&set=gm.520063901396635&type=1&theater)
-
Fake carbon fibre is just soooooo wrong :)
-
Been quiet for a while, spending a lot of time trying to sort out the DR-Z so that it's good to use for the long trip down to Fat Rat's place this weekend. Have a hanging idle niggle with the new carb, but think I might have sussed it now. If not I can put back the old carb for the weekend as I know it's fine, albeit not as good. Details in the DR-Z link in my sig for anyone interested.
Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to carry all the stuff I need to take for camping...
-
How did you get on with covering the tank?
-
Had word the day before yesterday that my bits are done getting sandblasted. Been recovering from the weekend and needed to harvest my garlic so haven't done any bike stuff. I feel more human now after a couple of good nights of sleep so will get working again this week. Some of the sandblasted bits are not going to get powdercoated, I will be spraying them myself. I'm going to try get these collected this week and if the weather holds up I'll be doing some painting this weekend. I also want to try and finish any sandblasting I'm doing myself this weekend so I can take back Mad Phil's cabinet and compressor. I'm going to need all the space when they're done powdercoating the stuff. I'm expecting to get the coated bits next week and then a lot of work will follow (along with pics and updates.) I can put the bike back together with the blue panels so the vinyl wrapping is the last thing on the list. It will get wrapped though, I'm not doing all the work and then leaving it blue, that just won't do.
I almost forgot, I need to wait until the forks are rechromed before I can put the bike back together. I might only get those back at the end of September. The little jobs all add up and take much more time than I first expected, particularly since I like taking my time and doing things properly (mostly.)
-
and needed to harvest my garlic
Winner: Best Euphemism category! :lala:
-
Actually I literally harvested some garlic, almost a bit too late. They are in the garage now, drying, but the smell is getting into the kitchen. Love the smell of garlic myself, but the good lady isn't too impressed with me.
As for the bike, collected all my sandblasted bits that I'm spraying myself today. The sandblast finish is rougher than what I expected so I have to layer up a few coats of paint to see of it covers it smoothly. The bottom of the bash plate will be my testing space as it's flat an easy to clean up if I wanted to redo it.
My wheels will be done by tomorrow and then the rest of the stuff are getting done over the course of next week. Then I just have to pay and collect them.
I'm hoping that the chroming place will call me soon to take the forks in so that work on them can start.
Does anyone know if there is a way to remove the plastic bits in the bottom of the forks? It's the bush that the fixed plunger slides in.
-
Had some garlic drying in the kitchen for a while now :thumb:
Good to hear the bike's going well.
-
Picked up my wheels on Friday and was just in time to get my tyres fitted. The wheels are one of the few parts that were made gloss black. Only the crash bars were made gloss as well.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sNGS6LqnfCk/UiUA7Z6VZ7I/AAAAAAAAEkM/RjqmxwN5qOE/s800/IMG_0027.JPG)
The rest of the stuff is satin black. Here's a box of bits that was done in satin. You lose points if you don't know what the bits are! (OK, except for the two bits on top.)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zwLIK85SvzA/UiUA8JBF4mI/AAAAAAAAEkY/hFNb5inQvqY/s800/IMG_0029.JPG)
Subframe:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zV9O4MSSrBg/UiUA8AeHJWI/AAAAAAAAEkw/bWM7O6MeYwA/s800/IMG_0030.JPG)
Swingarm:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wuQJDmUNK1E/UiUA9rBca-I/AAAAAAAAElQ/GpSMQ_hHIT4/s800/IMG_0034.JPG)
Frame:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ge9co36nQiM/UiUA-G93ckI/AAAAAAAAElI/vzhTx67rumE/s800/IMG_0037.JPG)
The powdercoater said he thinks the Strom frame looks really good in satin black. Said he did another bike frame in gloss the same day and it wasn't looking as nice as the satin Strom frame.
Gloss black engine bars (SW Motech):
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZYXvg6s37js/UiUA-wCs-mI/AAAAAAAAElk/jx0XIAj-7b8/s800/IMG_0038.JPG)
I'm waiting for the chroming place to call me to tell me that my forks need taking in. Hopefully that's going to be in the near future. While I wait for that I need to get some bits painted, the engine cleaned and painted and the wiring look (only one problem that needs sorting that I know of.) This month is going to be hard on the credit card because I have to order a lot of little things that I need to put the bike back together. I also have a little issue with the radiator and I'm not sure if I want to put it back on, get it recored or replaced. If anyone knows about a good 2nd hand radiator, please let me know.
15 photos added to the album today.
-
Very nice.
When you get to the wiring, do yourself a favour and strip the loom completely, and get rid of all those crappy crimps. :angry-tappingfoot:
-
Juv, you owe me an apology...
I've just wasted most of my afternoon reading this thread.
I am enjoying each post and look forward to the next.
Exciting stuff now you're getting some of the gear back in tip top condition.
Keep it coming.
-
I agree, satin looks much nicer for a frame
except my uncles bonny 750 1970. gloss frame looks the dogs on his
-
Does the Bonnie have a double cradle frame made with round pipes? I think those types of frames do look better in gloss :thumb:
-
The weather was quite nice when I got home today, as a bonus there was hardly any wind at all.
I packed out all the metal bits that needs rust treating and that aren't aluminium on table outside. Put some Kurust rust converter in a 1 litre garden pump up pressure bottle and had a go at them. Unfortunately that idea didn't work too well, it was sputtering Kurust all over everything. I resorted to painting them by hand, most thing got two coats.
Before:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GCKzwKxuQhY/UiYnKhDe05I/AAAAAAAAEmM/BMtsU3QNCGM/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
After:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fLJlgREUyD4/UiYnKrlWQ7I/AAAAAAAAEmI/5N-KuLze2eE/s800/IMG_0004.JPG)
Then afterwards I cleaned the spray bottle and found it does a brilliant fine spray if you have enough fluid in for it not to suck any air in :shy:
-
I wasn't keen on kurust: it only seemed to put a layer of latex or similar over the rust without really doing anything with it. With everything on the table looking blasted, I'd probably have gone straight to etch primer but it's not my restoration so fill your boots!
I used that type of sprayer for brake cleaner until it ate the seals & that was the end of that.... :shy:
Looking good: think I'll do the TS frame gloss when that bloody swingarm bolt finally gives in. ###
Now for the big memory test! :grin:
-
Kurust is fine to paint over, I've proven this with the centre stand I already did. It does layer up a bit if you give it a few coats, but once it's dry it's OK. It seemed to have smoothed the rough shotblasting surface somewhat too which I think is a good thing. I'll just go over it quickly with a fresh dry pan scourer to remove any 'extra' and then paint over it. The chassis epoxy I'm using should 'smooth' the rest of the shotblast finish too.
-
Rust converters do not just layer something over rust. They chemically convert the rust to a stable compound. http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/MetalC ... verter.htm (http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/MetalCoatings/rust-converter.htm) outlines a bit of the chemistry involved.
-
There's only so much to convert, the rest you've painted on just dries on top.
-
I know the chemistry of reducing iron oxide using tannic acid in (preferably) low pH conditions, I just haven't found that particular product to have been very good at achieving it. Spills seemed to resemble a latex like layer which turned black on air drying: looking like blue/black iron tannate without, perhaps, any chemical action actually happening. Encapsulated rust would seem to be cured for a while but would eventually return.
Given that hammerite only list the 3 hazardous ingredients in it, we'll never know for sure... Odd that they include ammonia as it's a strong alkali & would reduce the effectiveness of the tannic acid but I'm no chemist.. :shrug:
What's important is that it's working for you and the substrate was rust free anyway. :thumb:
Did you use the same chassis epoxy on the stand? If not, it's worth a little test on the kurust just in case there's a reaction as it would be a bitch to rectify...
-
It's important to get the loose stuff off. Once that is done, I've had excellent results.
-
They've been shot blasted so no loose stuff on there at all.
I haven't used the same epoxy on the centre stand so I'll try it on a small hidden bracket first to make sure it doesn't react. I'm going to be screwed if it does because everything is covered in Kurust already.
-
Only sprayed two little brackets with the epoxy today. Will see tomorrow if there's been any reaction, hopefully not. If I'm lucky the weather will be decent enough this weekend to spray the rest of the stuff. I might get around to cleaning the engine too and if I'm very ambitious, spray it.
-
If you do, try to get the engine suspended. Waiting for it to dry completely, then turning it over makes it a looooooonnnnnnnnngggggggg job.
Should be able to suspend it from the bottom two mounting holes (the bottom front one isn't used on the bike) I'd personally avoid hanging it from the top central mount only...
-
Sprayed some bits today, I'm not sure if I'm happy with them or not. I'll make up my mind later, except for the pillion foot rests, the rest won't be seen when on the bike anyway. I also sprayed the bash plate and not happy with that at all. I'll decide what I want to do with it later.
Only 2 photos added to the album today.
My improved spray area, now larger:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7mZ_4dIkEQc/UijvMQiucoI/AAAAAAAAEms/2PyHdhfz_m4/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
Some bits after their first coat:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rEBOKxsYfrs/UijvMl7TaCI/AAAAAAAAEmw/Hbk2NONqfbo/s800/IMG_0004.JPG)
-
I had an email off the place that's going to rechrome my fork stanchions. It's time that I take the stanchions in to them so the work can get done :lala: This should get thing moving again, when I get them back I can start putting things back together to make some more space to work on the rest of it.
-
This is going to look great once it's finish, it's a massive job. Could I ask, what is the "chassis epoxy" you are using?
-
It's VHT epoxy paint, here's a link. (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350809743793) Nothing special, but as I was using VHT for the rest I thought I might as well use their epoxy too.
-
Great work, juv... :clap: :grin:
-
I think most of the work still has to happen. I still have to order lots of bits, but I've been working overtime, working away and sorting out citizenship stuff so hardly any time to relax and do bike stuff.
-
it's coming along nicely, should be done for spring perhaps ?
-
Was hoping to have it done before winter, but now the good lady is picking up a 'new' car tomorrow so I get to be soft and use her old car through winter. I didn't want to use the DR-Z through winter as the frame rusts easily (steel frame) so wanted the Strom ready for winter. Now that I have a car for the winter I think I might just take my time with the Strom. I have almost 3 weeks off in December that would be perfect for spending time on the Strom, but as usual the good lady has decided otherwise and we are visiting her sister in Scotland and that cuts into my time. I managed to negotiate no longer than a week up there so I'll have plenty of time to spend in the garage with my Strom and the halogen heater :) I expect that when the new year comes the Strom should be ready for it, providing that I haven't forgotten to order something crucial. I have a list of things to order and will get them ordered soon so I'll have plenty of time to realise when something is missing.
-
aye, don't rush it.
You know who to call if you need a weird tool or some assistance :)
-
That reminds me, have you measured the engine mountings tool you have? Need to make sure I buy the right one.
-
which tool? The lock nut one, or the compression bolt things?
Either way, I'll post/deliver mine to you if you like.
-
The one for the lock nuts on the engine mounting and the rear engine bolt.
Are these the right ones?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121179415255 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121179415255)
-
Them's the ones I bought. I didn't need (or find a hole for) the smaller one, but the manual seems to suggest it's used on the <K6
-
Yep, I need the smaller one. I can buy them off you if you think you're never going to use them again? :shrug:
-
yup, fine by me, I already have a spare 'big' one :)
I'll dig them out and get 'em posted. Let me know where to :)
-
Juv, what did you decide about your bolts in the end. The ones I got from Pro-Bolt are awful and need replacing already. Did you go for stainless steel and if so where did you source them from?
Des
-
I've not decided what I'm doing about the bolts. I won't be buying Probolt ones, too expensive for what they are and I've heard plenty of bad quality stories. I might go with Locky's idea of getting them cleaned and replated.
The latest news is that I took my forks in to get chromed last Friday and they were done this week already. Cost me less than I first thought too, only £60, what a bargain. I've yet to collect them, but then I have no excuses for not putting the rolling chassis back in. Actually, I just thought of one, I've not ordered the new wheel and head bearings yet. I have to get my radiator repaired or buy a good condition 2nd hand one. I've been keeping an eye out, but they don't really come up for sale.
Another problem I have is that my garage is too full to do any work at the moment so I have to sort something out. The good lady bought herself a newer car and kept the old one so I have transport during winter when I don't want to go out on the DR-Z. This means there's no rush to get the bike put back together. I have 2 weeks holidays in December so if I can't get it done before that then I have a nice long stretch when I'll be at home to do it all. The first thing I need to do now is to get that radiator sorted, then it's a case of sitting down and making a list of everything I still need to buy before I can finish it.
So hopefully there'll be some updates again soon. I've been working like a slave and doing lots of overtime so that pays for a lot of this. More money is always welcome so I work overtime when there's work, but that means I'm knackered come weekends.
Here's a picture the restoration place sent me of what the fork stanchions looked like when they got them:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OQBgjhrd3OU/UlB5_eVqfDI/AAAAAAAAEnE/vxKAESPuh7c/s800/Forks%2520-%2520Before.JPG)
I have some old pictures in another album that shows the pitting (I wish my radiator still looked that good!):
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tI2VZ2WVl1E/S-cBB2fXemI/AAAAAAAADac/4qbuWPz_7jE/s800/1%2520front%2520left%2520before.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mkGfJ0e_8PE/S-cBCCwmCeI/AAAAAAAADac/4TkeC2gm0b8/s800/1%2520front%2520right%2520before.JPG)
-
I still haven't found a viable source for replacement bolts at a reasonable price. You already know my views on Probolts, didn't last long and cost way too much. I called Cupar Suzuki to get an idea of the cost of getting them direct, at least 15.00 ukp for six assorted fairing bolts. Ridiculous.
Any pointers to a viable source are greatly appreciated. :scared-yipes:
-
I used Motobins for stainless fairing bolts/screws, fuel hose clamps etc they were fairly cheap, I had become some in for the BMW's fairing but didn't fit them, then traded it in. Now use them on the Strom.
I've also used stainless bolts from Lidl (they do a range of sizes of nuts & bolts in a plastic tray) Fit perfectly and around £5 the lot - Just not button head. Had bought them for odd jobs and as I'd misplaced a bolt or two I just had a rake to see what would fit for a temporary fix...three years ago :shy:
-
Just a quick update tonight: I picked up some shiny newly rechromed forks today :lala: Very impressed with the finish, but not so impressed with how the plastic sliders inside the forks at the bottom now looks, Regardless, I don't think that will be causing me any problems.
This weekend I have the task of making a list of essential bits that need to continue and ordering them.
No pictures, but just imagine super shiny chrome tubes that look better than the stock stanchions :thumb:
-
ooooh...Shiny!! :)))
-
I'm blind!
-
.... you tease!
-
I'm blind!
Too much :text-datsphatyo: You'll have to either:
a. Tape a white stick to the front of your Strom
b. Fit a sidecar for the guide dog to sit in
c. Refrain from :text-datsphatyo: till eyesight returns.
-
I'll get some pics up before I fit them. I wanted to start on sorting out some bits in the garage this weekend, but I'm ill so that will have to wait. I'm looking forward to my December holidays so I can make some progress.
-
On the subject of bolts, I used this small run-from-home business to get some bolts when I was mounting the pannier rails and some other bits. Cost me £3.26 for quite a bit. And it was on my way home from work and I was able to get the bolts the same day as I ordered them...
http://www.titanbolts.co.uk/
-
This are going to get moving this weekend again. I've arranged with a friend to help me take the stuck bearing sleeves out of my swingarm on Saturday. We will TIG weld something to the inside and hammer them out. Hopefully the heat will also help to loosen it, but we will be very careful not to cause any problems with heating it too much. Just a quick spot here and there should do. I'll try to remember my camera so I can get some pics up, they should help anyone else with a similar problem.
-
still waiting to see the shiny bits :angry-tappingfoot:
-
:GRR: :GRR: :GRR:
-
Got some pics of the forks, here's one and there are a few others on the album.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-AaPTlOLlxAw/UnUWoRXFEII/AAAAAAAAEng/x-8vaLNiZrg/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
-
I went to my friend who had the MIG welder (he's got an arc and TIG welder as well, lucky bugger) and we successfully removed the bearing sleeves. For the first one we welded the head of a bolt to the inside of the sleeve with the threaded bit sticking out. Then, while it was still hot, knocked it out from the other side. For the second one we screwed a nut onto some M10 threaded rod, put the rod through the hole and then welded the nut to the sleeve. While still hot we knocked it out. It all went relatively painless, we just had to be patient and think it over properly before doing it. I had the worry that the heat will cause issues with the aluminium, but we didn't have any trouble, not even discolouring. Both bearing races are unmarked and the powder coating didn't get any noteworthy damage. In the first picture below you can see some small heat marks on the powder coating, but that's the worst of it.
This was the first one:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-xlkoX-nbJ_I/UnUXbwGWleI/AAAAAAAAEoA/BLQueGKVo6g/s800/IMG_20131102_121623.jpg)
And the second one. Imaging flipping the rod over and sticking it through the hole and you will get how we knocked it out:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iXptsNU_-Q4/UnUXcEPaUdI/AAAAAAAAEoE/yhwYCGSoYLY/s800/IMG_20131102_125902.jpg)
-
Good work, the forks look better than new !
-
Just finished ordering some of the 'urgent' stuff I need to get the bike back to being a rolling chassis. This includes all the wheel, swingarm, cushion linkage and head race bearings as well as fork oil and dust seals. The rest of the stuff I need are Suzuki parts like fork bushes, cushion linkage bushes, the top headrace bearing dust seal and various dust/oil seals that I'll get from Redcar/Fowlers in the new week.
-
Lots of little packages were delivered today :lala:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-A51kYU6iYdw/UnqI629kSXI/AAAAAAAAEoU/BzB3Ik8A7PI/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
-
WooHoo, I love it when the bits arrive! :grin:
-
Lots of little packages were delivered today :lala:
Drugs?
-
New BMW arriving by post from China??? lol lol
(Saves the factory in Bavaria from having to assembe the bits...)
-
The last of the bearings was delivered today. No sign of the grease nipples yet, but that's not the end of the world. I'll be fitting the bearings for the wheels, swingarm, swingarm pivot, steering and sprocket carrier this weekend.
This week was very busy and it's slipped my mind to call to get all the OEM bits I need (just some bushes and seals.) Hopefully I remember to call them tomorrow so that I can have them delivered before next weekend.
-
Started work on the Strom today again. The plan was to put grease nipples in the swingarm and cushion linkage, but the eBay shop I bought it from didn't deliver in the time they said they would. I also planned to put all the bearings in for the wheels, swingarm and cushion linkage. All of the bearing surfaces needed some attention, most just needed a good clean to get rid of powdercoating overspray and baked on grease. The swingarm pivot bearing surfaces had been shotblasted, they'd neglected to cover it. It took quite a while with sandpaper and metal polish to get them acceptable.
So wheel bearings are installed and so are the swingarm pivot bearings. I cleaned the bushes that go into the swingarm pivot bearings on each side, put in some extra grease, put the bushes in and used masking tape to cover it all on both sides so it stays clean.
Doesn't sound like much, but it took quite a while. No pics as there wasn't anything interesting worth taking a picture of. I'll start putting up more pics again when things go back together.
-
hi juvecu just read through your wee restoration project and all the pictures it is looking great can't wait to see the finished project :clap: :clap: :clap:
-
Juv, last week the Russians took the Winter Olympics flag into orbit, given your mammoth tome here, I'm sure they would give you some space on the next rocket - just as a reward. 'strom in space and all that :thumb:
(http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o693/D-Colada/RestorationProject_zps3d267ee4.png)
-
Hehe :)
The muppet I bought the grease nipples from on eBay never sent them and, oddly, eBay removed his listing. I opened a case, got my money refunded and ordered some grease nipples from someone else. They've already been posted so the idea is to fit them this weekend.
I'm also emailing my parts list over to Redcar Motorcycles to get prices and to order some seals and bushes that I never got around to doing last week.
-
Juv, come on… I have been away for a bit & fully expected it done by now.. :GRR:
-
:shy:
-
Did some work today. Fitted grease nipples to the cushion linkage and the swingarm. It's a fairly straight forward job: drill a 5mm hole, tap the M6 thread, bit of Loktite on the threads and screw the grease nipple in. Even so, I was very nervous drilling the hole for the one on the swingarm.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sqEtXubMFCg/Uoj5rBNf0FI/AAAAAAAAEpE/zr5tE0lfhH8/s800/IMG_0025.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9qv9j3U2gYU/Uoj5sxy0AOI/AAAAAAAAEpo/yVtJT9u8GqM/s800/IMG_0036.JPG)
I then tried to fit the bearings for the swingarm where the dogbones bolt to. They were a bitch and I fashioned this to try to get them in:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lKVtYHKEXsU/Uoj5ufG2TRI/AAAAAAAAEqE/YY8TLCx2PuQ/s800/IMG_0041.JPG)
The M8 threaded bar I was using snapped twice so I gave up, I will have to get some M12 bar and nuts. I couldn't get them in further than this:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RWjR_YfGC7A/Uoj5unGg42I/AAAAAAAAEqI/RE0W1TCJpRI/s800/IMG_0043.JPG)
If I had a bigger vice I could have easily used that to get them pressed in.
-
heat the swingarm/cool the bearings :)
-
The bearings came out of the freezer, they were in there for months. I didn't have a means of heating the swinging arm, that never seems to work well for me anyway.
-
boiling water is usually enough. They must be tight!
-
I'll try some boiling water :)
They are quite tight, I even polished the surfaces to help them.
-
All else fails, just get a bigger hammer :)
-
Make sure the bushings are properly oriented. There is a chamfer on one side that needs to be oriented toward the hole. http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,13643.0.html (http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,13643.0.html)
-
You got a little rubber hat for your nipple, to try and keep the crud out?
-
??
(http://www.stella5.co.uk/ekmps/shops/stella5uk/images/round-red-sequin-nipple-tassels-handmade-by-ophelia-fancy-615-p.jpg)
-
I presume that's an offer, mjc?
But won't you feel cold? :shrug:
:neen:
-
I'm not sure it's IP65 rated though :neen:
-
Yep, I bought a bunch of rubber caps when I bought the nipples :thumb:
-
Yep, I bought a bunch of rubber caps when I bought the nipples :thumb:
Lots of scope for this to go the way of the 'Muff' and 'Milky spy hole' threads!
lol
Anyhow, pleased you have it / them covered!
-
Have you thought of taking a picture of some neatly stacked plastic boxes full of bits that we can use for the 2014 Forum Calendar ?
-
There are plastic boxes, but they aren't neat or stacked and you can't really see them easily amongst all the other 'junk' that's strewn all over my garage.
-
could you use this on the rad to get the fins straight again?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RADIATOR-AIR- ... 58a6065acf (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RADIATOR-AIR-CONDENSOR-INTERCOOLER-FIN-STRAIGHTENER-COMB-CAR-SERVICE-TOOL-/380742556367?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item58a6065acf)
-
I have a lot of broken fins too, it really needs a core replacement. Thanks for the reminder, I've forgotten about the radiator so I need to get onto that quick else I won't have it back by the time the rest is put together.
-
I just called to order some of the parts I need/want for the rebuild. For those interested, here's a list of the ordered bits:
2x BUSH, SLIDE 51121-03F00 (fork bottom)
2x BUSH, GUIDE 51152-13E00 (fork top)
2x RING, PISTON 51196-27G00 (fork pistons)
1x SEAL, OIL 09285-22004 (front wheel)
1x SEAL, DUST 09285-28001 (rear wheel)
1x SEAL, REAR SPROCKET DRUM OIL 09285-39001 (sprocket carrier)
1x OIL SEAL (6X34X5.5) 09285-06015 (clutch pushrod)
1x OIL SEAL (10X21X5) 09283-10004 (water pump)
1x SEAL, STEERING UPPER, DUST 51643-33E00 (top steering)
1x OIL SEAL (14X22X6) 09283-14006 (counter shaft)
1x SPACER, FRONT (12X78) 62684-12C00 (cushion linkage)
1x SPACER, CENTER (12X17X85) 09180-12122 (cushion linkage)
1x SPACER, ROD (12X17X85) 09180-12122 (cushion linkage)
1x SHAFT, GEAR SHIFT LEVER 25617-03F10 (25617-03F00 old number)
Some of these do not need replacement, but since everything it's apart I'm replacing them now as access will be easy.
I have to commend Redcar Motorcycles for great, friendly service. They were quick to respond to emails, sent followup emails to check if I still need the stuff and were more than happy to give me revised pricing after I removed items off the list. I got 10% discount and the postage cost was very reasonable. It turns out that the bloke I spoke to is a member on the forum too. It's nice to find a business that still knows that customer service is important :clap:
-
These parts were delivered yesterday, I might put the forks back together this weekend :lala:
-
Enjoy the silky smoothness :)
-
I must commend Redcar on the great service they provide. They sent me the wrong counter shaft seal (similar part number) and I emailed to let them know about this last night. They've already popped the correct seal in the post for me by 09:20 this morning, tried calling me to let me know (I missed the call) and emailed me to say it's been done. Top marks :thumb:
-
Well, things didn't go as planned. I was supposed to have this week off, but instead I've been working all week. Looks like this will only get on track after xmas now, but I'm hoping to have time this weekend to at least complete putting in the swingarm bearings and perhaps assembling the forks.
A bloke at work game me an old Weller soldering station so now I have a good soldering iron to use to fix the wiring loom (and I still have to rebuild the Yoshi box :shy: )
-
A good soldering station is a godsend :)
Let me know if you need help with the loom... I have experience of that too... (strip it all, purge all the crimps, rewrap it)
-
Just need to sort the wiring for the one injector, positive wire is broken. I suspect it's the crimp as this is a fairly common fault. I'm not 100% sure where the crimp is located in the loom, but it shouldn't be to difficult to find anyway. I'm wondering if it's worth it to open the whole loom, bit by bit, to inspect it in it's entirety or if there's no point in that? How did yours look when you had it open? I want to get some ACF50 in there to help protect it before it goes back on the bike, but I don't need to open it for that.
-
juv, your bike's wiring will be the same as mine. the dreaded crimp for the positive injector feed is about 12" back in the loom towards the rear of the bike.
if the bike was still in one piece you would need to remove the rear tank mount, coolant tank and a bracket under the coolant tank to gain access. It's right at the bottom of that section of the loom so no wonder water gets forced in at the front top of the loom and settles right where the crimp is. There are more crimps in that general area of the loom to inspect while you're in there.
these pics might be of some use to you.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/60092801/Online%20Pics/Spring%202013/2013-02-02%2013.29.28.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/60092801/Online%20Pics/Spring%202013/2013-02-02%2013.29.14.jpg)
I have a few days off over xmas, and a week 2 weeks off end of jan - beginning of feb... wonder who will get their bike back together first? :neen: (cx500 for me)
-
Thanks Diver, the pics are very helpful, I know exactly where that is so I'll only open that part of the loom for a start :thumb:
-
It might be easier to add external jumper wires to connect the yellow/red wires at each injector and the fuel pump.
-
The positives are connected at the injectors at the moment. It works fine like that, but I'd like to fix the crimp too. I'll probably leave the positives connected as they are now too, if either end fails it will still run (not that I think it will fail again after a proper repair.)
-
I was supposed to have leave from 16th of December, but ended up working that week. At least I get those days in lieu in January. This is is helping out my leave day shortage next year, I have some trips planned. The idea was to work on the Strom during that week off in December, but obviously this didn't happen. We drove up to Aberdeen and came back on the 27th. I'm suffering pounding headaches so spent a lot of time in bed sleeping instead of having some decent leave. Yesterday I felt better so managed to get some work done.
I went with mjc's suggestion to use boiling water to heat the swingarm to get the bearings in. I could only use the good lady's electric kettle in the house, she didn't allow me to take it into the garage, probably a wise decision as she'd never see it again. Boiled a litre at a time, poured it into a stainless steel flask and then poured it over the swingarm which I had put in a large plastic container.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4GELEbaRSJ8/UsFyxjmKWbI/AAAAAAAAEr4/jXwONnEfONg/s800/IMG_0012.JPG)
I used some M8 threaded rod, some large flat washers and some nuts to put some pressure on the bearings. Pouring the hot water over it I could then hear it making clicking sounds as the aluminium expanded and the bearings started moving. I continued pouring until the flask was empty and then tightened the nuts a bit more and used a hammer to bang one bearing in while tightening more as needed. It was a tedious process, not helped by only having 1 litre of hot water at a time. It took about 7 or 8 litres to get both sides done. In the future I might consider using a different heat source than water, but it's safe to use so there is sense in it.
Next I decided to prepare the sprocket carrier for spraying and the new bearing and seal. The shotblasting was more aggressive than I thought it would be so I need to smooth bearing surfaces a bit before I can put the bearings in. It also roughened up the tread on the sprocket mounting stud bolts so I want to replace them. I took some M10 stainless steel nuts and screwed them onto the studs. The original idea was to put two nuts on, tighten them together and use that as a bolt head to remove the stud. The nuts were difficult to turn though as they had a different thread pitch. They would eventually get so stuck that they started turning the stud in more. At this point I knew the Loktite was broken and I could then use the nut as a bolt head to remove the stud from the sprocket carrier. Got them all removed with minimal trouble, measured them and need to buy replacements.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cNjaWEHwO-w/UsFyyPtoUNI/AAAAAAAAEsE/-PpYRmbnBXY/s800/IMG_0019.JPG)
-
looking good :thumb:
-
Nice to see something happening: you forgotten how things came to bits yet???? :shy:
A bit of tape on the inside bearing face and the studs would have prevented this: doesn't have to be much as decent masking tape would suffice. Just something to keep in mind for the next one.
-
Coming in a bit late here - sorry!
But on those original pics you posted is that the original screen you've got fitted, or is it a Madstad?
-
Sorry to bust into your thread but I am interested in getting some forks re-chromed and was wondering how I could know that the thickness of the new chrome matches the bearings and seals.
Also who re-chromed your forks ( they do look good)
-
bronto, that is the "sports" screen on a Madstad bracket. That screen was the standard screen on the DL650X model. It's great in warmer months, but if you do lots of miles it's better for me to use the stock screen. I always have the Madstad on, without it I can never get rid of the buffeting, no matter what screen I use.
Brockett, I'd imagine you'd just measure it. It does look thicker than the stock chrome plating, but I don't think it's enough to make a difference for the worse. That said, I didn't do a before or after measurement as I don't expect problems. I used a place called Marque Restoration in Coventry, they were friendly and quick, but I did use their pre-booking service, otherwise it'd take longer from delivery to collection. The price was very reasonable in my opinion. They are a family run business, IIRC.
It's going to be full steam on getting the bike back together when I come back from my holidays in South Africa. There should be frequent progress updates from the start of February again :thumb:
-
Ooh, looking forward to that. Enjoy your holidays: not jealous or anything..... :bawl:
I'll just have to make do with the SA bar & braai I just discovered in Edinburgh.
-
Safely home from holidays and ready to start work on this again this weekend :lala:
-
:welcome2: 'home'
-
Enjoying this thread. Nice to see a committed dl owner, not one jumping ship. DL650 are so enjoyable to work on.
-
Juv, are you still planning to cover the tank yourself. Have you found any articles on how to acomplish this or are you just going to 'wing it'?
-
Enjoying this thread. Nice to see a committed dl owner, not one jumping ship.
Oi, I'm committed, I've owned a few Dls :angry-tappingfoot:
:grin:
-
I have faith Mr Rat, you've put too much into making this forum what it is to just walk away cause you fancied a change. :thumb:
-
sorry blokes, was ment to put a :) . freindly banter.
-
sorry blokes, was ment to put a :) . freindly banter.
:clap: Good man!
-
sorry blokes, was ment to put a :) . freindly banter.
My skin is thicker than that :)
-
I'm thicker than that :)
'tis true :grin:
-
I'm going to wing it and if I can't figure it out by skill (or luck?) then I'll do some research. At the moment I'm not overly concerned with the wrapping, the rest of the bike has to go together first and run properly. The panels are easy enough to get off to wrap once it's running again. I still need to replace the left front side panel too, mine is cracked and I'm not sure plastic welding it again is the clever thing to do.
Anyway, time to go put some forks together :)
-
Things seldom go to plan, perhaps I need to plan better? :grin: I was thinking I'd get the forks put back together quickly, but things are going otherwise. There was still some dust falling out of the fork lowers when I took them out of the box, they needed cleaning. The stanchions had some residue inside and in the small holes, leftovers from the rechroming, this also needed cleaning. I decided to be very thorough about the cleaning and after doing the fork lowers and stanchions I cleaned all the other bits too. I kept the old bushes and seals so I decided to assemble the forks to the point where I could put some oil in them for a flush. I stuck about 200ml of fresh oil in each one and pumped them by hand for a while. They are now standing upside down so that it can all drain. Once they are completely drained I will have to take them apart again to fit the new bushes and seals. I'm hoping this was all good enough that things are clean enough not to ruin the new bushes and seals.
-
I just sat and read most of the thread and then realised you are only up the road too. Keep up the good work.
-
Finished off the forks today, they now have new Teflon bushes at the bottom and top, new plunger plastic seal rings, new oil seals, new dust seals and fresh 10W oil. I used a 170mm air gap like before because this works well for me with the Yacugar springs I have in them.
All assembled and looking nice and clean :)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V2njiKi28F8/UvZncUCWD3I/AAAAAAAAEuE/xdIwHe4QJUo/w624-h832-no/IMG_0003.JPG)
I also spent time getting the engine ready for cleaning. Plugged all the holes and pipes so that soap and water can't get in. I put the exhaust header pipes on the opposite way around so that I could stuff some cloth into them to keep things out.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3cyWHEnLSwM/UvZndcFGq_I/AAAAAAAAEuY/15KFSwfKzZw/w1109-h832-no/IMG_0004.JPG)
The idea is to put the whole engine in a big plastic container that I got from IKEA and then to wheel out and it wash it in there. The container has little wheels on the bottom, hopefully they hold up. I put a piece of chipboard in the bottom to distribute the weight of the engine over the entire base, fingers crossed it doesn't break.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yd735PF08sc/UvZndcsaB5I/AAAAAAAAEuc/pkevQalNW5o/w1109-h832-no/IMG_0005.JPG)
-
Yes pics are fine , you painting the engine or leaving it ? Looks quite clean from the pics ..
-
I have a feeling it will clean up well. I bought some paint for the side cases and the cam covers so will decide if anything gets a lick of paint or not. There's some of the usual corrosion around the water pump area. I've already bought a new waterpump seal so I might as well take it off and spray it. I'm going to do it the same colour as I want to have the side covers. I'm not yet sure if I want to spray the side covers in situ or if I'll remove them.
-
Just picked up a very good condition left side front fairing panel for £25. My current panel has a crack that's been plastic welded and then cracked again at a later fall.
It's black, but I'm covering it in vinyl anyway so that makes no difference to me. If anyone needs a (gloss) black panel, but can't get hold of one, if you can get a blue one we can trade so that you're helped out. Actually, any other colour you want to swap for a black one is fine by me as long as it's in good condition.
-
Did some cleaning yesterday, not done yet because I ran out of Gunk and the pink bike cleaner from Poundshop isn't really up to the challenge.
These photos were taken before I started cleaning.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-uxg8YW9nCY8/UwnDaVSOUXI/AAAAAAAAExo/k0eFM4QbWpc/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aPku0K5LW8E/UwnDagfUZsI/AAAAAAAAExk/YVoVojxykN0/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
I don't think it's going to clean up as well as I'd have liked. Some of the dirt is really embedded, particularly around the areas where there's some corrosion. The side covers and waterpump will need a respray, I just ordered the new gaskets from Suzuki (Stroms are bike of the month :lala: ) The starter can do with some love too. I will see what else needs painting once it's completely clean.
-
Just caught up again with the thread, Juv - excellent work! I'm most amazed the Ikea plastic box didn't crack!
Just wondering, most of your hoses are 9 years old, age, + exposed to salt etc - thinking of replacing?
-
I want to replace the radiator hoses, but the rest of them are in good enough condition not to worry me.
-
Leaving the PAIR system fitted? I left mine on, but I'm wondering if I should have removed it. Not that there's any performance/economy benefit (apart from the tiny reduction in weight :haha: ) but it's one less thing to fail.
Paint it a bright colour :)
-
Hmm, PAIR... I removed it on my DR-Z, the reed valve in the system almost always blocks so then it doesn't work properly anyway. I've wanted to take it off before on the Strom, but I haven't given it much thought for the restoration. I might as well get rid of it while I'm at it.
You need two plates to block the holes where the reed valves go (with some RTV silicone to seal), a 1/4 watt 10K resistor to fool the ECU and a 3rd plate to cover the hole in the air box where you remove the 'pump' bit. I can make the plates, have the RTV silicone and I might have a resistor lying around already so it should be easy.
I have this link for a bloke in the UK selling a kit, but I'm not sure I want to pay £39 for a fancy kit when I can make my own for dirt cheap. Just bought a Dremel like tool so should be easy to make the blanking plates out of aluminium.
-
I just noticed he sells just the pair block off plates on their own, ~£15, still a bit steep. I think one might be able to flip the reed valve stop plate around so that it keeps the reed valve closed. Then you can keep the plastic covers on the cylinders and just put a rubber boot over where the pipes would've gone. Not as tidy as having the plates, but much less hassle. I'll need to check if the reed valve stop plate can flip around though.
Thinking I might as well remove my secondary throttle valves too. If I don't like the bike with them out it's easy enough to put them back in.
-
Worth a go :)
I couldn't get my secondaries out last time I tried. Didn't want to try too hard mind, didn't want to grind away the head of a screw into nice iron filings there...
I'll need them fitted soon anyway, so that saves me a job :)
-
I have the throttle bodies off so should be easier to get them out on the bench.
-
Found some mint condition headers off a 2010 model for ~£22. Mine are a bit sorry looking, but these will look good wit the GPR exhaust.
-
Bargain
-
The header pipes were just delivered, they are in excellent condition. Bargain of the century :lala:
-
Spent some more time today cleaning the engine. After many hours of cleaning it scrubbed up almost as well as I do :grin: As you can see, the side covers have some paint that's coming off. I decided that I will repaint both sides including the water pump housing. I already bought the replacement gaskets when the Strom was bike of the month in last month.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LmbiKxKODSk/UxtTTPMKf2I/AAAAAAAAE0E/jLsJy17FWrU/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZbeCVEK57q0/UxtTTY4JLWI/AAAAAAAAE0I/S9c46NnMwSA/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-guM3vKpH080/UxtTT1JtOxI/AAAAAAAAE0Q/Rwp12GEamrk/s800/IMG_0003.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-N5F1PGEXvww/UxtTUKOX4vI/AAAAAAAAE0U/f0zLBWAvRmY/s800/IMG_0004.JPG)
While I remembered I opened up the pair valve bits that bolt onto the cam covers. One of them was particularly mucky and completely blocked.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HgmRnCVH1dU/UxtTUj6LOHI/AAAAAAAAE0o/TdetGUbF1Fs/s800/IMG_0006.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-GgCCWCTsMIA/UxtTU7iUz5I/AAAAAAAAE0k/2D0EaZbrczQ/s800/IMG_0008.JPG)
This is what the reed valve looks like, this one is from the cleaner side and I cleaned it up so I could see what was going on.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y-cQ8M9Hju4/UxtTUYqPaYI/AAAAAAAAE0c/HB9K4ll1iPg/s800/IMG_0005.JPG)
I undid the two screws and flipped the plate over so it presses against the reed valve. I wasn't happy that this would seal the reed valve properly. Since I couldn't care less what happened to the reed valve I proceeded to beat the plate flat to see if I can get it to seal the reed valve properly, but I wasn't happy with this solution either. In the end I decided that I'll bin both reed valve assemblies and just plug the holes in the plastic covers, the ones where the rubber pipe goes, properly so that there's no leakage.
-
In the past week I've been cleaning all the bolts, nuts, washers, small brackets and the like in preparation for the reassembly.
Today I started by cleaning the left over shot blasting out of the frame, a tedious task. After this I cleaned the threads on all the holes that I didn't put bolts in before I sent it off for blasting and powder coating. It took hours to do frame and the subframe holes. This is a lesson learned, put a damned bolt in each and every hole and tape up the big ones like the swingarm and engine mounting ones that you can't find big enough bolts for. It would've saved me lot of time if I prepared the frame properly to start with.
Then I fitted the bearing races for the steering into the frame, followed by fitting a new seal and the bottom steering bearing on to the triple clamp.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vWf_nUhg6uo/UzcbPG1UCEI/AAAAAAAAE3A/W8TPQaR08ag/s800/IMG_0003.JPG)
Packed the bearings out well with grease and put the triple clamps on the bike.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-voF2YbqxWE4/UzcbP8P-eEI/AAAAAAAAE3I/v_GIkIkbRpw/s800/IMG_0006.JPG)
The aim is to have a rolling chassis by the end of the weekend so the next step was to put the swingarm back on. I'd previously put the swingarm bearings in so it was a case of cleaning threads and the front chain guard and putting it all together. This went pretty quickly and one could start to get an idea of how good it all looks in the satin black powder coating. Unfortunately I'm stilling using a shitty (almost 10 year old) camera so if I shake the picture blurs. The cam is on it's last legs, I should really get another some time...
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HvWLL_6810I/UzcbQTgT3wI/AAAAAAAAE3M/NYMYp00YdQ8/s800/IMG_0009.JPG)
In between doing all the above I also sprayed the rear shock cushion linkage. I wanted to use the VHT Chassis Epoxy that I used for a lot of the other smaller bits, but I'd forgotten to order some again after I ran out. I had a can of Hammerite Satin Black so I used that, I figure this thing is hidden under the bike so I'm not going to cry if it is a slightly different shade of black than everything else. I also needed to get it sprayed as I need it to fit the shock. It came out quite well after 4 coats, 2 light ones and 2 heavy ones. I must say that I like the VHT Chassis Epoxy much better, the finish looks like it will be more durable and the coverage is better making it easier to spray paint with.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IuBbNJ8_SIc/UzcbPVEdt9I/AAAAAAAAE28/7WtdHj8ODC8/s800/IMG_0004.JPG)
After the swingarm went in I cleaned the treads in the triple clamps as I'd forgotten to do it before I fitted them. I also cleaned the ignition, it was filthy with oil which I found very odd as it's not near any oil. I figure that the previous owner might've had an obsession with oiling the ignition. I've only ever used light oil and this was heavy, sticky stuff.
I then took the rear shock and cleaned it thoroughly, removing any chain oil that's managed to get on it over time and then "polished" it up with my ACF-50 rag. It's ready to go on as soon as the cushion linkage is properly dry and I've put the bearings in it.
-
On Sunday I found the cushion linkage's paint wasn't completely dry. I needed it to put the rear shock back on, have to knock the bearings in first. While I could've done something else, like cleaning the brake calipers, I used the excuse to be lazy and to play Diablo 3 all day long. The good lady also plays Diablo 3 so I got some much needed brownie points because I spent a day of my weekend with her instead of with my bikes :grin:
-
I'm trying to spend an hour or more on working on the Strom every other weekday and on weekends I work as much as I can. Things are going slowly, but progress is progress so I'm happy.
Today I put the bearings in the cushion linkage and got all the bolts together for reassembly. Then I remembered I still needed to spray the dog bones, at least the paint was delivered. I also seem to have misplaced the top shock mount bolt, but I'm sure it will show up if I look for it properly.
-
Can't wait to see this bike come together . :thumb: looks fantastic
-
After dinner I remembered where the other bolts and bits were. I went to the garage and cleaned them up before putting some rust converter on them. They will dry properly and will be ready to use when I need them next. If I remember I'll take a picture of what they look like when the rust converter is dry, it goes black.
-
Fantastic job Juv, and thanks for keeping us informed :grin: :thumb:
You seem to have lots of space to work in, makes me realise what a huge mistake I made letting the missus claim all my garage space with domestic-type stuff and exercise bikes... :crazy: My own fault though.
-
Aye, I'm jealous. I've even lost my patio workshop :bawl:
-
I don't have lots of space, just a single garage that has to house a DR-Z and a Strom in bits. The engine is on a small pallet and there are 2 sets of off road wheels for the DR-Zs in there. The 2nd DR-Z I have sits in the backyard. I can't walk through my garage from one end to the other without climbing over something or moving something out the way. I don't like not having space, it slows me down a lot. I'm spending lots of time moving and rearranging stuff so that I have enough space to do the next task. Once the Strom is back together I'm going to make an effort to use the space a bit better than it's being used at the moment. The Strom's tank, platics and other bits are taking up a lot of space that can be put to better use :)
-
I took the picture of the rust converter treated bolts. Because I cleaned them up well before applying the rust converter they are only lightly coloured. The all metal hammer I coated with some left over converter last night is much darker, but it wasn't cleaned up before applying the rust converter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kqEgSC6-kv4/Uz2pyofrxWI/AAAAAAAAE3w/HdNAjUFS4yU/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
I still have Mad Phil's sonic cleaner, I really need to get myself one like this, very handy for all kinds of things. I'd forgotten that I also wanted to clean the throttle bodies and brake calipers with it. I did the throttle bodies tonight. First I clean them with some Double TT (like WD40), scrub them with a long bristled nylon brush and a toothbrush and then put them in the sonic cleaner. The pink stuff is Poundland's version of Muc Off thinned with about 3 times the amount of water. The throttle bodies just fit in the sonic cleaner and I put them so that the servo motor and the two position sensors aren't submerged.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vVy5wiuobZ4/Uz2pyld0UXI/AAAAAAAAE3o/2KOt8_WUZU8/s800/IMG_0005.JPG)
The cleaner was on when I took this picture, you can see the ripples on the water and on the reflection against the side.
While waiting for the sonic clean to finish I decided to take some pics to show how nice the shock cleaned up. The first picture was taken with the flash on, the colour of the spring is wrong and it looks like the cylinder inside is blue, it's chromed. The 2nd picture is taken without the flash, the colours are accurate, but the pic is blurry because I shake. The purple spring is obviously a Hyperpro one.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GP_J0ybWBZM/Uz2pyr2hU_I/AAAAAAAAE3s/I4w0ilX8DZI/s800/IMG_0007.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B0k3ep6X9M8/Uz2pzYzB22I/AAAAAAAAE34/QSH723LkPe4/s800/IMG_0009.JPG)
When the throttle bodies were done scrubbed them a bit more with the nylon brush and the toothbrush. I then used a cloth to dry it a bit and then smothered it in Double TT. This I then removed with compressed air and a cloth, it's a water displacer so it got rid of all the pink stuff and water. Once dry I covered it all in ACF50. Hopefully I'll remember to take a pic tomorrow, I'd already put the camera away.
-
I took some pictures of the throttle bodies after covering them in ACF50. There's a fair amount of corrosion on the various bits, but overall it's in good serviceable condition. It looks worse than it is.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aWo4gNOdkuU/Uz77gDB0jRI/AAAAAAAAE4Y/fya0d5MevWM/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qKiLUTSz22k/Uz77gA8wY9I/AAAAAAAAE4U/gvQ-0gh8FIY/s800/IMG_0008.JPG)
Today I disassembled the front and rear brake calipers, sonic cleaned the caliper bodies and cleaned most of the rest by hand (bolts and such.) I need to get a new brake pad retaining pin and rubber boot thingy for the rear caliper. I'll take pictures when I'm done with it all.
I bought red brake caliper paint and I in two minds now whether I want to spray the calipers or not. At the moment I'm thinking that I won't as the weather's been shite and I don't want to spray these in bad weather. I can always do it at another time.
-
Juvecu , make sure you renew that rubber fuel hose between the throttle boddies , mine failed on my K5 . I've renewed the hose on my L0 too .
It's pennies to renew and it could cause you to get stranded in the middle of nowhere .. :)
-
Was thinking about it, but figured if it ain't broke... Where did you get the right hose from and which clips did you use?
-
Spent most of the day in the garage finished the brake calipers, coated them in ACF-50 as I always do. I use a paint brush to make sure I get in everywhere and I don't care if I put to much on because I use a rag to get rid of the rest afterwards. Once the excess is wiped off I put the pads back in. I need to replace some rubbers on the rear caliper. As you might notice, these are not standard Strom calipers, these are 4 pot Nissin calipers that's from a CBR600, you can also see the SV Racing brackets that hangs them in the right place for use on the Strom.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DsK1tt_YbKM/U0AwY2OZQwI/AAAAAAAAE5M/_yr1erIbvfs/s800/IMG_0007.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-hDW2YltYZf4/U0AwY2ANoAI/AAAAAAAAE5I/Rs2mae1QYtk/s800/IMG_0012.JPG)
I also prepared the sprocket carrier for spray painting, just needed to tape up the bearing and bush surfaces.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jMBuOT-4T5w/U0AwX_coXYI/AAAAAAAAE40/FMLldjiDpNI/s800/IMG_0006.JPG)
After this I cleaned the front and rear master cylinders and all the brake hoses. I then started cleaning the front brake disks, mainly the centre hubs. They are gold and show dirt easily, I figured I will get them cleaned up a bit before putting them back on. Unfortunately I ended up slicing my thumb open on the sharp edge of the disk. It was 17:30 so rather than superglue it and continue, I decided to pack up for the day and go clean and stick a plaster on it.
-
Juvecu , I may have some hose left over , if you want it I'll get it in the post. can't remember where I got the clips from but they are like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Fuel-Lin ... 3a771a25c3 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Fuel-Line-Hose-Clips-Pipe-Clamps-Air-Water-Diesel-Petrol-Fuel-1-or-4-Pk-/251106305475?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item3a771a25c3)
-
I'll PM you my address, thanks :) Do you know which size clips I need so I can order them in advance?
-
The outside diameter of the tube measures 14mm .
-
Perfect, thanks :)
-
Didn't feel too bright today, stomach trouble so I put in a rest day. Did spend some time ordering a few things I need. Washers, a rubber for the rear brake caliper, some stainless steel flange nuts for use with the stud bolts I'm putting in for the exhaust headers, vinyl gloves and some silicone caps for the PAIR removal.
I also managed to get a blue left front fairing panel for cheap, matches the blue already on my bike. I now have a black left front fairing panel spare if anyone needs one. Just PM me, else I'll put it up for sale after the bike is all done.
For interest's sake, I've used 5 boxes of vinyl gloves so far, 50 pairs of gloves per box, 250 pairs in total.
I wonder how much I spent so far, but I'm not keeping track of it properly. When it's all done I will trawl through my PayPal receipts and credit & debit card statements.
Next task is sorting out the wiring loom. The remnants of the alarm/immobiliser needs to be removed. I also need to find the corroded connector for the fuel injectors and fix that. While I'm at it I need to check each connector for corrosion and clean all of them.
I want to fit dual headlight relays, my Stebel Nautilus Compact air horn, some radio related wiring (pass switch as PTT), a better heated grips feed and a satnav power cable. I also want to add wiring so that I have power inside my top box, I've yet to decide how I'm going to do it so that I can easily unplug it when I want to remove the top box (which won't happen often at all.)
Does anyone know where I can get some stud bolts from that are M10 with the threaded bit on one side 20mm, the other side's threaded bit 15mm and the unthreaded bit in the middle 10mm?
-
You can always make studs shorter. Just run a nut onto the threads, cut to the needed length, chamfer the edges of the cut end with a grinder or file and run the nut off to clean the threads.
-
That's the option I'm considering after spending an hour on eBay last night looking at what's available. I found a few that have the 10mm unthreaded bit in the middle and are slightly longer at both thread sides. Should be easy enough to change them to what I need. Going to check few places still and if I can't find what I need I'll go this way.
-
I wouldn't shorten the outside ends, only the inside. They need to be high strength studs and stainless steel probably wouldn't be strong enough. If you cut the end off a galvanized stud, the end will rust.
-
I see what you mean, yes. I might've found another solution, just need to see if pans out. In the meanwhile I ordered new M10x1.25 flat flange Fuji nuts, they are zinc plated and 8.8 grade steel. My old ones are still usable, but very manky. This is what I bought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161270220979 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161270220979)
The good lady is away tonight, sleeping in a Premier Inn somewhere in the south as she needs to be down there for work early tomorrow. I got to spend more time than I usually would in the garage after work today. Spent it all on doing the rest of the brake disk cleaning and I'm glad I made the effort as opposed to just wiping the worst away. They cleaned up very nicely, this time without any cuts to my digits or the need of more superglue (yes, in the end I glued the cut from the other day anyway.)
This is a pic I found of what the disks looked like before:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--iglJsR1Cv8/UdsXLZAr3GI/AAAAAAAADoo/Ir_XiAvh3Ic/s800/IMG_0009.JPG)
And this is how they now look after a clean:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yLi-poCQzV4/U0L36pGdRAI/AAAAAAAAE5g/jNcCxSwCCNg/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
-
Make sure not to exceed 50Nm on the sprocket nuts. The manual spec is too high to start with and using 8.8 grade materials instead of 10.9 or 12.9 will make it easy to cause problems.
-
The correct torque for a M10 x 1.25 8.8 grade zinc plated bolt/nut is 54Nm. I usually torque about 10% less than specified (except for the very low values) and I've never had any problems and likely avoid a few in the process. In this case I'd be going for 50Nm, so we agree :)
-
Bloody hell Juv think I need a month off work to catch up with you on the restoration work...
and I had the front wheel off the wee last week, and was looking at the tin of silver paint and wondering about repainting the middle sections :angry-banghead:
ah well I may get a day to do a bit of tarting up the Wee before ST7
It's all looking good mate but I'm waiting for the pics of things going back together... :angry-tappingfoot:
At least my Honda has a swing arm, shock, rear wheel attached :neen:
-
Any time now, any time... :shy:
I'm trying to sort everything out before I put it back together. I don't want to start putting it back together only to have to stop regularly to clean another something or to order another this or that. Now that the brakes are done I have to sort the wiring loom, will take me the rest of the week I think. After that the washers and stuff I ordered this weekend should all be here. I need one good sunny day with almost no wind then I can get the last bits sprayed. When that's done it should be good to go back together. It should go back together in a week or two at most *touch wood*
I just remembered, I still have to paint strip the sides of the replacement 2nd hand radiator I got and that needs painting too. I think I'll do that tomorrow so that it's ready if the sun shows. If the rain continues I'm going to have to figure something else out.
-
Bagged a complete sprocket carrier off eBay for £16.50. Much more expensive than stud bolts, but I can't find the stud bolts I need and this way I'm sure I won't have trouble with it later. I plan to extract the studs from the carrier I just bought and install them in my own carrier unless the one I bought is in much better condition than the one I have.
-
I also want to add wiring so that I have power inside my top box, I've yet to decide how I'm going to do it so that I can easily unplug it when I want to remove the top box (which won't happen often at all.)
Hi Juv
I used 1 of these http://www.powerlet.com/product/basic-luggage-electrix-tankbag-saddlebag-power-kit/288 to add power to my tank bag but as I used the top box more I put it into the bottom of the box so that I had power for charging on the go and when you want to take the box off it's just a quick disconnect.
-
Thanks, I'll have a look at it :thumb:
-
Ordered a load of stuff so that I have it all when I start making the electrical additions. Took me ages to work out what I need, to find it and then too remember to buy other little things that I will also need. It was a 20 item order on eBay, biggest order I've done in one go on there. It included various guages and colours wire, relays for the headlights and the air horn, wire sheathing, different heat shrinks, different terminals, an inline fuse holder and some other stuff I can't remember now.
-
It's a good job you are not keeping track of the spend yet Juv.
-
I'll sit down sometime and total it all up. I want it in the maintenance spreadsheet I keep for the bike. With the exhaust (£155), the 2nd hand radiator (£80), the shotblasting and powder coating (£180) and the paint I bought (~£80) it will be a bit more expensive than I first thought. I'm hoping to come in at under £1000 or as close to as I can. The way I see it is that I save a hellova lot doing it myself and I learn a lot in the process too.
-
Thanks Locky, the fuel pipe arrived yesterday :ty:
-
The 2nd hand sprocket carrier was just delivered. Very dirty, but in very good condition. They even included the spacer and that looks practically new. The sprocket itself is a but knackered, but I never planned on using it anyway. This was a bargain for the price, £16.50, and I'll respray and use it instead of my own.
-
.. I used the excuse to be lazy and to play Diablo 3 all day long. The good lady also plays Diablo 3 so I got some much needed brownie points because I spent a day of my weekend with her instead of with my bikes :grin:
lol, good call. In our house it's nothing but Minecraft or Spore at the moment. :)
-
Hehe, Spore :) The good lady got it and I tried it for a laugh myself. Got a bored with it quickly, good thing I'm never going to have kids, I can't spend that much time taking care of something else unless I want to (yes, I'm selfish!)
Bits are being delivered part by part. Going to work in the car tomorrow so I can bring back the front fairing panel and sprocket carrier I had delivered at work. Also have 2 red cards from Royal Mail for packages I need to collect. Hopefully the rest of the stuff will arrive tomorrow/Saturday. The weather forecast for the weekend looks promising, higher temps and practically no wind. I might finally be able to do the spray painting I so desperately need to get done. I'll be cleaning the 2nd hand sprocket carrier tomorrow when I get home. Will also paint strip the radiator sides that I need to respray. I'll be moving things from the garage to the shed, I'm making space for putting the forks and wheels on the bike on Saturday :lala: Next week it's wiring loom sorting and making all the additional electrickery bits. I'm feeling like things are about to pick up some speed, but I don't want to be overly optimistic.
-
I assembled all the packages I collected over this week (bar 2) for a photo this afternoon :) There's still one more to collect tomorrow.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k2aZed9NS7s/U0g4aRQhSyI/AAAAAAAAE54/wA9F9y-Ok2g/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
Since the weather was great today I could spray paint some bits when I got home today. I tried to do the bits that I will need to fit back on soonish.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zxOZNgd1IFg/U0g4amLWqcI/AAAAAAAAE6A/a1vdsYv-ABo/s800/IMG_0003.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VuZ1nLKESvU/U0g4bCMMUzI/AAAAAAAAE58/fOl632fh-B8/s800/IMG_0005.JPG)
Hopefully the weather holds up tomorrow and I will do a load more. A lot of the stuff I sprayed previously needs another coat or so because I ran out of paint back then. At least this means they should be quick to finish off this time.
There is a lot of black on this bike, 4 different shades of it. Satin black powder coating, gloss black powder coating (the wheels and engine bars), some Hammerite satin black (centre stand and shock cushion linkage) and then there's the VHT Chassis Epoxy which is also a satin black. In the end I expect the gloss to contrast well with the satin black bits and the orange panels.
-
It was a good thing that I decided to spray stuff yesterday rather than taking the chance that today's weather would be just as good or better. It was overcast for most of the day, only improving later in the afternoon, but with some wind. I still sprayed the rear axle adjustment plates and the rider footrest mounts.
I then started on putting the rear shock and related linkages on only to realise that I was missing a bushing, I'd not ordered it. A quick call to Redcar Motorcycles in Leicester and I found out they had one in stock. I figured it was as good a reason as any to jump on the DR-Z and go fetch it. Arrived there and picked it up with the usual good service from Redcar. Spoke to Mr. Strom, a member on here, who works there, he was just putting a fully kitted Veek on their website. Must say, it looks the part with all the bits. Returned home and had lunch then started on the bike. I'd lost a lot of time and it was already past 2PM. I fitted the rear shock, cushion linkage and all the other related bits. Also pumped grease in via my newly fitted grease nipples, works a charm.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--lLhGG25zUg/U0mLhAIRYcI/AAAAAAAAE6Y/k3CF1hxWc0Y/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
After the shock was on I turned the frame upside down, assembled the front wheel and fork (without disks as I still need to get new bolts) and fitted it to the bike.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K0fbfAdHnNU/U0mLhI4VETI/AAAAAAAAE6c/GtcuUVZJnfg/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
Turned it right side up and put it on an MX stand so I can start with the rear wheel.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-G8ogZ7IwwFs/U0mLhAxpZTI/AAAAAAAAE6g/UsJYybcLWOU/s800/IMG_0005.JPG)
Fitted the rear wheel just using the spacers and rear brake mounting bracket. I still have to clean and spray the rear sprocket carrier, but this can be done at another time. I also didn't fit the brake disc back, for one I can't find it and I also need new bolts for this.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-25JwPS23_8U/U0mLh7f2F4I/AAAAAAAAE64/wh6q0EUKMfs/s800/IMG_0007.JPG)
With the rear wheel fitted it was the first time that I could get an idea of how the gloss black wheels will look with the satin black frame and other bits. I'm very happy with how it looks, there is a definite black "contrast" there and that's what I wanted.
I then fitted the centre stand as I need a way for the bike to stay upright without needing to use the clumsy MX bike stand. I ran into some trouble here, the right side mounting bolt for the centre stand to the bracket stripped the thread without the slightest resistance. I will have to figure out what to do about this, but for now it's good enough to keep the bike upright while I work on it.
The last thing I fitted today was the rear sub frame and the shock preload adjuster could then bolt in place onto it. Looks a bit more bike shaped with it on now :)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Uu0DzLLRqS8/U0mLijdircI/AAAAAAAAE6w/vZsdk_MDwvU/s800/IMG_0011.JPG)
The going is slow as I spend a lot of time looking through my previous pictures to figure out which bolt should be used where. I think I spend more time looking for the bolts than I do putting things together. As it goes on it will go quicker, I guess.
-
Looking like a bike now , the wheels look great in gloss against the satin frame and swingarm . You did'nt do bad considering you did'nt start till 2pm :thumb:
What you got planned to fit next ?
-
Getting really exciting now...
-
I haven't really planned what I'll fit next, trying to do it more or less in the reverse of how I took it apart. That way it should go back together in a sensible way. I need to sort out the wiring loom so I think that's the next thing to do. If the weather is decent tomorrow then I'll spend some time spraying things.
-
Looking good Juv . :thumb:
-
Good to see things moving along Juv and looking forward to seeing the shiniest 100K+ bike in history when we get up to ST7.
-
It might already be dirty again by then :shy:
At least I will have pictures to prove it was clean before it got that way :grin:
-
Can someone point me in the right direction for buying stainless steel brake disk bolts that are not going to require me to sell a kidney? The Pro-Bolt stuff is ludicrously expensive and the Suzuki bolts are similarly priced. I'd be happy with high tensile steel that's been plated with chrome/zinc/nickel for anti-corrosion too. I have 10.9 high tensile steel that's chrome plated, not polished, on my DR-Z and they do fine.
-
I'm not sure now, as I already changed my front tyre to PR4. but observing the thread on your front tyre... Can you check if you have it turned right way (direction)?
-
Have you tried arrow fasteners on Avon Mill, or folly Mill fasteners in Southam.
-
bosnjo, pretty sure it's the right way around, it always looks weird, but I'll check anyway :)
Not even heard of those places, was thinking online, but if I can't find anything online I'll check them out, thanks :thumb:
-
If you know what thread and length you want Arrow are very good, proper Arkwright type of shop.
-
Since the weather turned out really good I decided to finish spraying everything except engine related bits. This meant I needed to get the fork brace, gear lever, rear sprocket carrier and bash plate done. I'd already prepared the fork brace before so that was easy to just spray.
The pic is terrible, this is after I hung it in the garage and I was shaking badly for some reason.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3amkV4KAe34/U0qqE4SXWrI/AAAAAAAAE7c/3zzhv0yU_Po/s800/IMG_0005.JPG)
The gear lever took some preparation, I disassembled it and removed the rubber boots, painted the short bit that goes on the shifting shaft with Kurust, covered the ball joint bits and removed the shift lever's rubber. This kind of stuff takes much longer to do properly than one might think, but when it comes to painting it's all in the preparation, IMHO at least.
This is what the gear lever looked like after it was sprayed, another terrible photo.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-b8qwLY2zaAM/U0qqExlQINI/AAAAAAAAE7U/OeT3lVdQe3g/s800/IMG_0006.JPG)
Then it was time for the sprocket carrier I bought second hand. I first removed the old sprocket and binned it. The carrier itself was covered in greasy crud. First I cleaned it with paraffin, next I used Gunk degreaser, then some fake Muc Off from Poundland (bit useless) and then two washes with lots of washing up liquid. Before painting I also wiped it with mineral spirits and dried it with compressed air. I left the old bearing and seal in and taped the hole and the studs with masking tape. This all took more than an hour to do, close to an hour and a half actually. After two good coats it looked like this:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-N1p-hpVMeBA/U0qqE6BGlDI/AAAAAAAAE7Y/bWzAw8yXrMM/s800/IMG_0010.JPG)
The marks you see in the paint is the original casting marks, I don't see why they couldn't just clean them up properly in the factory, it's about the only part on the bike that's this rough looking from the factory. At least the black paint hides the marks fairly well and I think the carrier looks good in black.
All that was left to do was to spray the bash plate. I have previously done this and ran out of paint so it needed only one more coat to get it to look right.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-PVOuxSJvG-A/U0qqF0uHRCI/AAAAAAAAE7k/UWtDf5hf1j0/s800/IMG_0013.JPG)
I really hope this chassis epoxy I'm using is as good as I think it is...
Just need to do the radiator, the water pump cover and the engine side covers now.
-
Got a link for that chassis epoxy ?
-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351038242476 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351038242476)
All the cans I've bought was off that seller, they should relist it soon. It's also better to buy more than one can if you think you'll need/use it as shipping then gets a lot cheaper per can. There is a gloss black version of this, the code is SP650. The reason I went for this is because they claim it's chemical, corrosion, rust and salt resistant (what ever resistant means in this context :) )
When it dries out it looks less glossy than the pictures I took today.
-
With the long weekend here I have lots of time to work on the bike. I'm hoping to make good progress this weekend, so far so good. I spend yesterday afternoon & evening cleaning the connectors and covers on the wiring loom. I finished the last few connectors off this morning and then set about finding the crimp connector that's caused me so much trouble in the past. The connector is the one that crimps the positive fuel injector wires together. I previously had trouble finding it when the loom was on the bike. Because of this I resorted to connecting the positive injector wires together near the injectors as a temporary fix. This temporary fix has been in place for more than 10k miles. I only opened the loom about 1 inch more than I did before and found the connector. It was very obvious that this was the real cause of the previous problem.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hTOAIutFinw/U1FgU40X36I/AAAAAAAAE8E/TKDHigXleKM/s800/IMG_0005.JPG)
I cut the crimp connector out, cleaned the insulation off the wires and added in a bit of wire with some new crimps to fix the connections.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KM_9f4B1_Kw/U1FgVUaW1eI/AAAAAAAAE8I/1ta5RAqqSQg/s800/IMG_0010.JPG)
I then soldered the crimped areas so that there's a better connection, wiped on some ACF-50 and put some heatshrink on. Hopefully this fix is good enough so that there's never a problem again. I also left the injector wires connected near the injector.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hU-hTFoUFnY/U1FgVv52SuI/AAAAAAAAE8M/cNkFyH4sS1M/s800/IMG_0016.JPG)
The rest of the day was spent removing the Acumen alarm from the wiring loom. This turned out to be much more difficult than first anticipated. There was only one place where the alarm's wires split existing wires, all the others just piggy backed on some existing wires. If I knew this to start with I could just join the two wires that made the split and cut the other wires, leaving them in the loom. I only realised this was the case when there were only 2 wires left to remove so I continued removing everything. Bar an extra crimp connector and some soldering in one place and either heatshrink or insulation tape where the other wires were attached my wiring loom is now back to how it came from the factory. I removed meters of insulation tape to follow the wires from start to end to disconnect them. I now have a feeling of triumph over the alarm :grin: All that still needs doing is to tape the loom back up so it's protected again.
-
I knew sorting out the wiring loom was going to take some time, but I didn't expect it to take quite this long. The reason for the extra time is mostly because of how much of the sheathing/insulation I had to take off to remove the alarm completely. Spent most of my time in the garage today on recovering the wiring loom. Used almost a full 10 meter roll of self amalgamating tape for this purpose. It requires quite a lot of concentration and effort to do this neatly, even though it's an easy enough job it's not a quick one. Some times you have to be a bit of a contortionist to wrap the tape around just right. This was the first time ever that I've used self amalgamating tape and I like it, I think I will use it for a lot of future projects. While I was at it I also removed a lot of old insulation, some of it was a sticky mess of thin insulation tape. The sticky could be cleaned of easily with some electrical contact cleaner spray.
Here's a picture to give an idea of what the self amalgamating tape looks like now that it's on the loom.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3EGv6rizukA/U1Ky2vZkvnI/AAAAAAAAE80/IRotddokL58/s800/IMG_0003.JPG)
I also used the existing heated grip connection wires to fit some new wires to, this will be the switched feed that will activate the relay for the fuse box that I plan to move into the front fairings area. I first twisted the wires together, soldered them and then used heatshrink over it. Pic is out of focus, but you can see the new yellow and blue wires and the heatshrink.
Edit: I'm aware that I didn't need to bring the negative wire out as well, but figured that if I changed my mind and wanted to use this for something else (perhaps the Garmin) then I have both wires without needing to get a negative elsewhere.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-CmpGt98A7no/U1Ky1cPva1I/AAAAAAAAE8k/Q12tGGhN2gY/s800/IMG_0004.JPG)
After this I used self amalgamating tape to fix it solidly to the loom so that the soldered joints aren't stressed. Another out of focus picture, I really need to get a better camera for the garage... :shy:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y8TKPzQWaxw/U1Ky2CGdxdI/AAAAAAAAE8s/phWpOAJl2NQ/s800/IMG_0007.JPG)
Before throwing the alarm in the bin I gathered all the bits for a picture. Come to think of it, I'm going to dig it out of the bin and open it up, just because I'm curious of how it looks inside.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dAVIJTZiUIw/U1Ky41J3U2I/AAAAAAAAE9A/ofutVXtxmrU/s800/IMG_0010.JPG)
I also cleaned all the wiring connector on the headlight wiring loom and cleaned the headlight unit itself. The only other wiring related bits to do are the addon things like the air horn, heated grips, power socket, Garmin power, headlight power via relays, radio power and the radio PTT on the pass switch. All of these will get done when the main wiring loom is on the bike as I can't guess the wire lengths without things being in place. Also, all of these are things that can wait if I run short of time before ST7.
I couldn't resist taking this last picture for the original Stromtrekkers crew (ST1)!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VrAJ2jnh1hc/U1Ky25web4I/AAAAAAAAE84/4IURVgyjD24/s800/IMG_0012.JPG)
They will all remember that we had a bit of trouble getting a fire started and that some WD40 helped with that. We also posted about this on the forum after the trip so many other members might recognise it. The tin in the picture is the same tin we had on ST1, it has travelled tens of thousands of miles under my Strom's seat. It would probably have gone to Morocco and back later this year had I not run out of all my other similar sprays last night and dug it out. It's now empty and has gone in the bin, I need to order another one for the bike. WD40 smells nicer than the other similar sprays, I only noticed this last night.
-
The loom looks very neat and tidy :thumb: and GT85 smells better than WD40 :)
-
+1 for GT85 smell.
-
"I love the smell of GT85 in the morning!"
seriously though, it does smell much better on a warming up engine than WD40.
-
I couldn't resist taking this last picture for the original Stromtrekkers crew (ST1)!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VrAJ2jnh1hc/U1Ky25web4I/AAAAAAAAE84/4IURVgyjD24/s800/IMG_0012.JPG)
:ty: lol
-
WD40 fire. There is nothing better to make a camp fire;)
-
I used to have a mate who kept an oil drum in the garden for burning rubbish, when it was in full low he'd lob in an aerosol and we'd have to guess what it was from the smell when it exploded (men, fire and beer are a great mix) model car spray paint was always easy, you got a smell and a pretty flame but GT85 was the best!
-
I couldn't resist taking this last picture for the original Stromtrekkers crew (ST1)!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VrAJ2jnh1hc/U1Ky25web4I/AAAAAAAAE84/4IURVgyjD24/s800/IMG_0012.JPG)
We would probably all have died without that fire, as it was a bit damp and the pub was fairly busy ;-)
Your favourite can in action...with longman and wasabi warming up as well :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9lVTRExm9gU/U1OJtryZGUI/AAAAAAAAASs/eYVJI9qkH8I/s800/16062011553.jpg)
Great work on the strom...you putting 2 extra fuseboxes on the bike, or just one and in the fairing? I'm halfway through putting my bluesea under the seat, but hate losing the space :GRR:
-
I'm moving my Bluesea fuse box into the front fairings because everything I connect, bar the radio, is always near the front of the bike. I still need to figure out what I'm doing with my radio, I think I might put it under the seat with it's own switched feed. Otherwise I'll put it in the top box, again, on it's own switched feed, I left the switched positive I previously connected to the loom in place for this purpose. At the moment the radio is the least of the worries as I can stick it in a pocket/tank bag and run it off it's own battery if I don't get around to doing any of the wiring for it in time. Needs to be ready by end of September for Morocco though :)
At the moment the only uncertainties about putting the fusebox in the front fairings is where I'm going to put it and how I'm going to fix it neatly. I'll put up pics of it when I do it.
-
Greywolf put a good pic of his fuse box at the front on this post viewtopic.php?f=58&t=20491&p=189954&hilit=fuse+box#p189954 (http://www.v-strom.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=58&t=20491&p=189954&hilit=fuse+box#p189954)
Left mine under the seat as wanted easy access to it
-
I've had it under the seat for very long, easy access was the reason. I've only ever needed access to it once and that was when I wired a battery eliminator for a radio. Easy access isn't high on my list this time around. If a fuse blows in the box it's not going to end my journey, I can sort it at my next stop. Same goes for adding a connection, I'll be doing that at my leisure in my own garage.
-
Good points :) might move mine at a future date (only installed yesterday) if I find I need the under seat room
-
It was slow going today, but still progress. I took the front wheel and forks off so I could fit the brake disks now that I have the new brake disk bolts. I had to cut away powder coating on the wheel hub so that the disks would sit flush like they're supposed to.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Jk0MjIMh8to/U1QZisJrjaI/AAAAAAAAE9s/xGE4J0jJ4OM/s800/IMG_0004.JPG)
The disk bolts are titanium alloy ones. They cost me £42.90 for all 14 bolts (10 for the front disks and 4 on the rear disk.) They are cheaper than similarly priced to OEM bolts and cheaper than the Probolt stainless steel offering by some margin (and obviously cheaper than their titanium offering by even more of a margin.) They are precision machined and I'm very impressed with them, definitely worth the money. They show just how overpriced the Probolt stuff really is. Here's the links if anyone is interested in getting some:
Front: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400443745514 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400443745514)
Rear: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121085094604 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121085094604)
Fork were refitted with the gaiters in place this time and dropped through 10mm, just the way I like it.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--CKbz7JQcw0/U1QZgqRCBSI/AAAAAAAAE9Y/GcDbDNne7yE/s800/IMG_0008.JPG)
Next it was time to remove the old bearing and seal from the 2nd hand sprocket carrier I bought and resprayed. It was an easy job to knock the bearing out with a slide hammer. There was some trapped water in the bearing, it was rancid and smelled terrible :-x The new bearing was in the fridge, where it's been for months, and I hung the sprocket carrier in front of a halogen heater for half an hour. It was an easy job to tap it in and the seal goes in easily with a bit of oil smeared around the edge.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pzY-FpTzhkY/U1QZiccrcVI/AAAAAAAAE90/KbfR3WkKaSA/s800/IMG_0017.JPG)
I fitted the cush drive rubbers into the wheel. Then I fitted sprocket and some new 8.8 grade steel Fuji lock nuts (zinc plated.) Here it is just before I torqued it.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EkhhzEzUMGQ/U1QZktNcAFI/AAAAAAAAE-A/Y9G3oJaNZAw/s800/IMG_0027.JPG)
It was at this point that I realised I binned the rear brake disk and never ordered a new one :shy: I put the rear wheel on the bike and spent the rest of the time getting the side stand reassembled and sorted for fitting.
-
Juv, sorry for being PITA, but have you checked the orientation on the front tyre? It still looks wrong to me.
-
No that's correct orientation for the front.
-
Yep, I checked it yesterday, it's the right way around. I was pretty sure I checked it when the tyre fitter put it on too, but good to be sure :)
-
Spent more time in the garage today, did a lot of small things that took much more time than one would think. This is a recurring theme for me, things always take longer than they should because I see something else that I can clean/fix/adjust/do as I go along.
Handlebars are now fitted, clutch perch and left and right switchgear is fitted. Engine mountings are loosely fitted, all the correct bolts only hand tightened because I need to fit the engine bars before tightening it up. Coils are fitted to the back of the engine mountings, the spark plug caps have new rubbers. The old rubbers were hard and cracked, I broke them into pieces by just squeezing them between my fingers. I fitted various rubber grommets and bits as I went along and then started on the brakes. Fitted the rear caliper loosely as I still need to fit the disk and new pads. Then moved to the front calipers, fitted the SV Racing hangers for my Nissin 4 pot calipers. This was when I discovered the right fork is leaking oil out the bottom. A very small leak, but it's definitely from the fork. This put a bit of halt on my progress as I had to remove the front wheel and forks. I normally don't tighten the lower bolts in the forks overly tight, so this might be the cause of the leak on the one fork. I tightened both up a bit more and cleaned any oil off the forks very thoroughly before putting them upright on some news paper so that I could see if they still leak. I'll check them tomorrow when I get home, if they're still dry I'll put them back on.
After this I spent some time measuring various bolts that I want to replace with stainless ones. I'll order those tonight. I then removed the PAIR pipes from the engine and cleaned the covers and holes out better than I did before. I'd bought some silicone caps which I put where the pipes would go, I used silicone to seal them properly and installed new stainless steel bolts with bit of Loktite, they are never going to be removed again. These are the only photos I took today, they show the caps in place.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-xRCVOr0uIFY/U1Vqg8a7n-I/AAAAAAAAE-k/doyiKYa1O1I/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tLFWuaufa8w/U1VqhL7-h8I/AAAAAAAAE-o/M52_ZZJjxMU/s800/IMG_0003.JPG)
Nice and neat :) I just need to remove the PAIR solenoid valve from the air box, close up the hole and solder in a resistor for the plug so that it doesn't give an FI error.
-
Yep, I checked it yesterday, it's the right way around. I was pretty sure I checked it when the tyre fitted put it on too, but good to be sure :)
OK, good to know, sorry for insisting, it just looked wrong way.
-
Juvecu, I used that VHT spray when I did my recent brake caliper rebuild. It's good stuff. I have been trying to find a good "Gunmetal" equivalent for another project - have you seen anything like that in your travels?
-
Check the VHT website, they have an engine enamel colour called "Nu-Cast Iron" (code SP997), it seems a bit magnesium looking which, to my eyes, is close to gun metal grey. The thing about gun metal grey is that everyone has a different opinion on what is :)
http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/engineenamel/ (http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/engineenamel/)
-
Very true Juv, very true. Thanks for the information matey :thumb:
-
Did some work tonight after I got home. Checked the forks, no leaks :lala: Just tightening the bolts at the bottom of the forks stopped the leak. I tightened the steering stem nuts up properly, fitted the forks and the front wheel and put the handlebars on properly. I installed some new stainless steel bolts for the handlebars. Next I took the rear wheel off and fitted the new brake disk. The disk I bought was JT Braking disk, I use their sprockets and have confidence in the brand. The disk wasn't a disappointment at all, looks very well machined and I'm expecting it to be up to the job better than the EBC one I had on before. Here it is fitted, I used titanium bolts on the rear disk, like I did for the front ones.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6YT3itSMbLA/U1g5VhjvyWI/AAAAAAAAE_A/j23mSynd1JY/s800/IMG_0003.JPG)
I then spent some time replacing the fuel hose and clamps between the injectors on the throttle bodies. Thanks again to Locky for sending me some high pressure fuel hose he had left from when he did this on his bike.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q5RRnR4ohzk/U1g5V4wOTYI/AAAAAAAAE_M/CZ5QjFLKzKo/s800/IMG_0005.JPG)
While I had the throttle bodies on the bench I replaced the old rubber tubes for the vacuum damper with silicone hose. I also fitted my silicone hose extensions that I had on the vacuum nipples again. These make it much easier to do a throttle bodies balance.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YAbmb-OFrJo/U1g5WREplnI/AAAAAAAAE_I/N2pFlfXtZ64/s800/IMG_0008.JPG)
The silicone rubber caps I fitted to blank off the caps for the PAIR reed valves I removed are also on nice and tight. I think I will just put a cable tie around each of them to make sure they aren't going to come off. I was thinking I might just blank the pair valve in the air box with a cap like that too. That way I can leave it connected and won't have to solder in the resistor. The valve can open/close as much as it likes, it will make no difference.
-
What's the vacuum damper from/for? Or is it a <K6 thing?
-
It gets connected to the intake air pressure sensor. I'd have thought all the 650 models need such a sensor, but I don't know if the later models need the vacuum damper? :shrug:
-
Why silicon hoses to replace the rubber ones?
-
The old rubber hoses were getting a bit hard and starting to show very fine cracks on the bends, even though the insides looked fine. One of the rubber hoses snapped off when I pulled it off the vacuum nipple, it was stuck to the nipple and I had to cut off the snapped off bit from the ipple. I had silicone hose left over from previously installing the vacuum nipple extensions so it seemed logical to use that. The silicone is much more flexible than the rubber and isn't affected by the temperature.
-
My K7 has the sensor, but no damper. I think it just uses the airbox volume? don't know.
-
I got home to a lot of little packages today. Received the rear brake pads and lots of stainless steel bolts and washers.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VlJZkazvH88/U1lrAkO2nmI/AAAAAAAAE_o/IiUaAnoN7us/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
I fitted the rear brake master cylinder, the brake hose, the guides that bolt to the swingarm and the rear brake caliper with the new pads. Torqued everything up so it's all ready to use once I put brake fluid in. I decided not to do the front brakes just yet, I will do them when I do the rest of the front of the bike.
I figured it's a good day to start on the engine. Those who of you who have been on the forum for long will remember that I snapped a chain on my way to work on the Friday of the weekend of an August bank holiday meet at Fat Rat's a few years ago. Though I repaired all the damage and fitted a new chain and sprocket the next morning I never repaired the top bolt in the sprocket cover. The chain hit this bolt clean off and my attempt at drilling it out failed. I recently ground a lot of the casing around the bolt away to get the broken off bolt out. I bought some metal epoxy stuff. It's a putty that is dual coloured and you knead it until it's all one uniform colour. It sets very hard and can be sanded, drilled, tapped, machined, etc. It's dark grey so doesn't stand out too much because the engine is greyish too. There was some thread left after I removed the broken off bolt. I took a stainless M6 bolt, put some oil on the threads and screwed it into the remaining thread by hand. Then used the putty around the bolt and let it set. Once it set about half of the required time I turned the bolt just a quarter turn out so that it loosened in the putty. I left it like that and hope I can unscrew it tomorrow to have thread inside the putty. I'm not going to shape it so it looks like the original as it might be too weak then. It'll be difficult to spot when the bike is back together and the sprocket over is back on.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Fra2_IKs4dQ/U1lrBMoGBxI/AAAAAAAAE_s/vGERTxkTWEk/s800/IMG_0006.JPG)
After this I removed the old exhaust seals, they were so baked in and covered in carbon that you wouldn't notice them unless you knew to dig at them to get them out. I have some new ones waiting to go in. I've previously bought some exhaust studs, I've installed some on the DR-Z and the plan was always to put some on the Strom too. Tonight I fitted these, I used some Loktite 270, it's a higher strength than the 243/6 stuff I usually use. I have some nice stainless flange nuts to use with the studs. The blue hue in the picture is because I used an LED torch to light the area to take the picture.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s-YSY72OH2I/U1lrBQSVflI/AAAAAAAAE_w/L0cHwjU7lr4/s800/IMG_0008.JPG)
If you look on the left of the picture, in the area where the stainless Allen cap bolt is, you can see some pieces of the engine casing is damaged. This is also damage from the chain snapping incident, but doesn't need to be repaired. I am considering repairing it when I take the casing off to spray it, even just to cover up the damage a bit so it looks better.
-
Made good progress today even though I didn't take a lot of photos.
The first thing I did was to look at the metal epoxy 'repair' I did. The bolt unscrew easily and left thread, that idea worked well. I then used a Dremel to cut it down to the right length. This is what it looks like now.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2lVpn6DC9F8/U1wqAF6rW7I/AAAAAAAAFAI/4Nba_mwoeDQ/s800/IMG_0003.JPG)
And this is what it looks like with the chain guard in place, I'm happy with it like this.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-45na-X-scwE/U1wqAvncghI/AAAAAAAAFAM/mKlfoeg99sM/s800/IMG_0007.JPG)
I then made use of the excellent top Jacko mentioned, I put silicone sealant in the back of all the connectors on the wiring loom that didn't already have rubber seals. I also did this with some of the connectors on the switchgear looms and the rear brake light loom. I just realised that I forgot to do the connectors on the headlight wiring loom, but I will do them later.
Next up was installing some oil seals, the gear shift seal was a bitch to get out and almost as much to get the new seal in neatly. I also packed in some red rubber grease between the seal and the washer that covers the seal. I also replaced the clutch pushrod seal, this one is much easier.
I then covered the whole engine in ACF-50 and fitted the new exhaust crush seals and the rear cylinder's header pipe. While I was fitting the header pipe a Yodel van showed up and delivered Locky's shim kit to me, great timing :lala: (Thanks Locky! :thumb: ) I spent the rest of the afternoon checking and then adjusting the valve clearances. It's a time consuming job even though I knew what I was doing and I had done it on the Strom before. I messed up the timing on the rear cylinder, I forgot to put the chain tensioner back in and the chain jumped a few teeth when I turned the engine. Had to reset the timing so this added to the time it took. They are now all set smack in the middle of the range and I'm glad I checked them as I had 2 exhaust valves a little tight.
Tomorrow the engine goes back in the frame :lala:
-
Good progress. Nothing like a deadline to focus the mind.
-
Nice metal repair too :thumb:
-
Engine is in! Excited enough to do a quick post about it :D Pictures and detail later when I'm done.
-
Can't wait to see it :)
-
Not all that much progress today, but an "important milestone" none the less. Engine went back into the frame today. It turned out to be much easier doing this alone than I thought, just lift with the legs and hold it with one arm to get the first bolt through and the rest is easy. Here it is, right after all 3 bolts were first inserted, nothing tightened yet.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QbR6-8nRTnU/U10plFJUpzI/AAAAAAAAFAk/1Su0Azq_3Xo/s800/IMG_0005.JPG)
After that I tightened everything in order and to the correct torque values. At this point I realised I still needed to sort out the oil cooler. I bought this 2nd hand off an SV650 and just fitted it without cleaning back then. The SV quite obviously didn't have a mudguard extender to keep the crud off the oil cooler. The multitude of small stones and mud stuck to the cooler is the evidence. It needed a soaking to help get rid of this, I couldn't get it all out and decided to leave what's left at the risk of damaging the cooler fins if I tried to pry things out. I can see through the fins just about everywhere with just a few small stones wedged in where they don't want to come out easily. Even air from all side and running water wasn't helping. This is the cooler soaking in some dish washing liquid and water.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-OO5ipsCxM3A/U10plGK32VI/AAAAAAAAFAs/vdsj-lojPqo/s800/IMG_0012.JPG)
After that it got a wash in paraffin, then Gunk degreaser and this Poundland's version of Muc Off followed by water. I blew it dry with compressed air and then hung it in front of a halogen heater with the pipes down so that any fluid and remaining oil could drain out. More water came out than oil, but that's fine, I will give it a flush with some oil before I fit it anyway.
After this I decided that it's time for the front header pipe to go on so I figured I might as well fit the GPR exhaust's collector pipes. I installed my heated oxygen sensor and ten fitted the collector pipes and the front header pipe. The GPR collector pipes are a tight fit, but it's perfectly engineered and fits almost better than the OEM pipe, if that's even possible :) I'm really impressed with the GPR exhaust, I think I've said this before a few times, the craftsmanship is outstanding and you can see the materials are of high quality. Everything fits to perfect tolerances and the welding is like art. I test fitted the rear section pipe and the silencer and then drooled a little bit. I've decided that I will leave all the baffles out for the first start so I can get the full effect. I'll then play around with the baffles until I find a happy place. I have the stock cone baffle that fits in the bottom of the silencer and the stock baffle that fits into the end of the silencer. I also have custom made baffle that goes in the end of the silencer and should be a little quieter than the stock one. I can use any of these by themselves or I can use a combination of the bottom and top baffles to get it how I want it. I have a feeling I will be leaning to the louder side of things :grin:
Here are some pics to show the exhaust bits fitted.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0fFo1l93fRQ/U10pnjDherI/AAAAAAAAFBA/0PTtERh_gcc/s800/IMG_0016.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ILLVAlkvPWA/U10ppKBxFVI/AAAAAAAAFA8/NYuxK9UhHxA/s800/IMG_0017.JPG)
I rust treated the oil cooler when it was dry and left it to dry. The next task will be to spray the oil cooler to prevent future rust. I'll be using the same VHT chassis epoxy that I used for much of the other stuff I sprayed. I'll also be spraying the Cymarc footrest lowering kit's plates, it arrived on Friday (thanks Shelly :thumb: ) I think the next mission is then getting the throttle bodies on and the wiring loom back in place. Luckily the Suzuki service manual is very detailed in how the wiring loom and cables are all fitted. That, together with my pictures, should make it an easy, if time consuming, task, but once that is done then there's not much left to do to get it all back together and running. The coming bank holiday weekend might be all I need to get most of it done. At this pace I'm quite certain that the bike will be ready a few weeks before ST7. Enough for me to ride it and to sort out anything that might give issues. I think I might even have enough time to take the engine covers off, respray them and vinyl wrap the bike, but I don't want to be overly optimistic just yet.
-
Good progress J, if you need a lift with anything in future give me a shout as I'm only down the road.
It's surprising how quickly things go back together when all the prep and painting has taken so long.
Keep up the good work.
-
Yes it's looking good :thumb: I agree with your comments regarding the GPR system , it's very well made.
-
The good lady thinks I'm bonkers for calling the exhaust a work of art. I've seen far worse things being called 'art' before :grin:
-
lol lol My Mrs would think the same, she calls me a sad anorak sometimes. They just don't understand, I'm so glad I'm a male.
-
That's looking great! :clap:
Looking forward to seeing it complete
-
that's ace work Juv, very impressed with your repair to the broken engine case - quality work.
Be careful with the loudness of the exhaust. My Beowulfs were really loud & initially I was chuffed at the sound, it was ace. Till I did a longer run, then it became a pain and other riders didn't like being behind me as it disrupted thought. Folk 150yrds ahead of me would turn around to see what was coming. Kids would cover their ears as I rode past at 30mph.
So I took them off and went back to stock. I got a set of quiet baffles from Beowulf in March (for free - top folk!) and will refit the system to see if its a bit more bearable now.
-
My SM is now my loud ride so the Strom will probably end up on the quieter side. I have to start it up without any baffles though and then, in my best mad scientist voice, shout "IT'S ALIIIIIIIIVE!" :grin:
-
Video that.
-
I have the GPR system and think it's great, in all the years of changing exhausts on bikes this has made the most performance change. regarding baffles gpr say the first baffle for road use to keep mid range torque and straight through for track use as allows more gas flow for top end. With no baffles it is LOUD as in offensively loud to a mulistrada owner with termis and you WILL get a tug. It runs best with the first baffle in.
With some bikes as you go faster you tend to leave the noise behind, not with this, it gets tiring on motorway runs so I carry the end baffle with me for big trips.
One extra goody to put on while you are pulling things apart a 4deg offset woodruff key on the rotor (cheap and easy to do) it seems to give better throttle response and more urgency in the mid range.
I have done this on Honda's, Yamaha's and Suzuki's and works well.
-
Not sure how I will record that, Jacko, but I might come up with something :)
I'll let you know which baffle configuration I end up using. I have quieter than stock baffle as well, I like options when it comes to something like this.
cpjs, I'm not doing anything to the engine other than removing the PAIR system and settings the valves. Perhaps in the future I'll play around with it some more.
-
No baffle sounds great. But the mrs gets a headache if we ride more than 20min without it. The standard baffle is a bit less harsh but I acquired a quiet baffle and I swap them around dependant on my mood, where I'm going and if the mrs is with me.
For the run up to Scotland it'll be the quiet baffle.
-
Did some work when I got home tonight, I seem to be in a good "work on the Strom" mood everyday now so lots is getting done :) I prepared and sprayed the oil cooler and my new Cymarc footpeg lowering kit. This is the oil cooler after being sprayed. It's a bit of a fuzzy picture, the fins and the non metal parts of the pipes were taped over. It seems the biggest problem with the oil cooler is the rust on the oil pipes. If they go to shite again then I'm replacing them with some flexible hoses with stainless steel unions and stainless steel overbraid.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h8w-WF0WcE4/U17QL0vBVSI/AAAAAAAAFBc/mfD3LTJurZY/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
I washed the rear plastic bits, I need to find something that can restore the plastic of the rear mudguard back to a nice black instead of the greyish black it is now. I don't just want to WD40 or ACF50 it, I need something a bit longer lasting, but not quite on the level of having to paint it. Any recommendations?
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-0PYQoDtLMtE/U17QMJ44c7I/AAAAAAAAFBs/zaXvgueLt4c/s800/IMG_0004.JPG)
I then had to undo the subframe bolts to get the plastic undertray fitted, only to realise afterwards that if I removed the rear shock's remote preload adjuster it wouldn't probably gone in without lifting the subframe :shy: I learn something new every day, in fact, I've often learned several things per day working on the Strom, I like it :)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mfzfPjVNfUg/U17QMiH8z7I/AAAAAAAAFBo/IVnw3PSZg5U/s800/IMG_0006.JPG)
I decided to fit the throttle bodies, but the screws in the clamps had rusted and I had to use pliers to get them out after chewing them up with a screwdriver. I'd already ordered stainless steel replacement bolts to replace the screws so it's not a problem. I smothered the clamps themselves in ACF-50. The reason the throttle bodies had to go on is so that I can fit the wiring loom next and it will make it easier if I can plug things in as I go along.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Vf5BgRL_r4Y/U17QMZ28WoI/AAAAAAAAFBk/BwblQBVmbzg/s800/IMG_0005.JPG)
At this point I realised it's too dark for the purpose of starting to fit the wiring loom. I promptly got distracted by the replacement radiator that I bought. Longman "imported" a second hand one from Poland for me, a bargain at £80 all in. The fins on the radiator is in good condition, but the paint around the edges is flaking off because of oxidation under the paint. I spent the best part of an hour with a blade picking the flaked paint off. I was going to use paint stripper, but this was faster and less messy. There's still a bit of paint left on a few spots, but the paint stripper will get rid of that easily. I need to find out how to pacify the aluminium before painting over it else this will just happen again. Anyone know what to do?
-
Aluminium etch primer.
-
Use this for the plastics.
http://www.autoglym.com/products/produc ... d-trim-gel (http://www.autoglym.com/products/products/bumper-and-trim-gel)
-
Just spoke a bloke at work and got the same reply regarding aluminium etch primer :thumb: Do you have a specific brand that you trust?
Thanks for the pointer for the Autoglym stuff.
-
I'll have to try some of that bumper and trim gel... my bikes plastics are looking a bit crap- and the top box- let's just say it's seen better days. :shy:
-
It works very well, and lasts years. I'm still using the bottle I bought years ago, when it was still called Bumper Care.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/29/y3azymyb.jpg)
-
How long does it take before it goes back to grey again when you've used this stuff?
-
I have used it for years and find it excellent.
the bike gets a proper clean 3 times a year and the bumper care seems to last long enough to get to the next clean. It goes on all the black plastic and rubber eg. clock surrounds, switch housings fork dust seals and hoses etc and even the baglux tank cover.
Put it on with a piece of sponge, hard plastic buff off with soft cloth, rubber just leave it.
Having said all that I have just tried acf50 on everything so will see how that goes.
-
Just spoke a bloke at work and got the same reply regarding aluminium etch primer :thumb: Do you have a specific brand that you trust?
Sorry no, I just googled it !
-
Yeah, ages Juv. It'll last through many washes if you're not too aggressive with your detergent.
I could probably send you some in a sandwich bag if you like :D
-
Sounds good, I'll get some of the Autoglym stuff, it's cheap enough if it lasts well.
U-POL #8 etch primer gets good reviews so I'll try some of that.
-
I've used the upol before on a fuel tank and it is good stuff. Dries to a good flat finish but don't use it anywhere where you may want to paint hammerite as it will react. At work We use Trimite paints and just add Trimite etching acid to the normal primer to make it an etch primer. This way the normal two pack will take to it.
-
The upol stuff is very good, I used it a lot on my land rover restoration.
-
For vinyl wrap have a look here.
http://m-99.co.uk (http://m-99.co.uk)
I know the bloke, he's local, we collect from him. Let me know if you want anything, I'll see what I can do regarding price.
-
I think the Simon at sign zone at Braunston has vinyl wrap contacts. Good chap.
-
Got some of the Autoglym gel stuff, works a treat :thumb:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1wuDEjK7III/U2AKOXB44oI/AAAAAAAAFCI/fMnns03q7AU/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
I'm wondering how I can go about shortening the rear mud guard so it tidies the rear of the bike a bit. I've broken the number plate light and rear reflector so won't be fitting that again. I've got a mind to mount the number plate up higher, cut whatever sticks out below it off, fit a small number plate light (LED one) and stick some small round reflectors on the bottom corners of the plate to keep it legal. I think it can be shortened about 4 inches, not too short, but not as long as it is now.
Bought some U-POL #8 etch primer, will spray VHT Chassis Epoxy over it, will stay away from the Hammerite (thanks for the heads up.)
I continued working on the radiator today, the paint that I couldn't get off with the blade needs to be stripped off. I reckon all the health and safety BS has made things like paint stripper a lot less effective than it used to be (but at least it's safer :sarc: ) After 2 very liberal coatings of the stuff it still took a fair amount of scrubbing with a nylon brush to remove most of the paint. It will need another coating or two in some places to get rid of the rest. Here'a pic taken while I was applying Nitromors (trying not to touch the fins.)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-T-E_c6u08hM/U2AKNdyyg-I/AAAAAAAAFCE/o_IeDlnPmvg/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
I'm looking forward to the weekend, I feel like I'm going to get a lot done. Hopefully I can at least finish stripping the radiator so that I can prime and then paint it this weekend.
-
Watch the rain bead on your plastics now. :thumb:
-
It never rains here... it pours! :groan:
-
Just messing a bit with your photo and ideia of cutting the mudguard down (if you can't relocate seat lock). I don't really know the size of your number plate:
(http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j435/bosnjo3/IMG_0001_zps40127f25.jpg)
-
I had something like that in mind. I'll fit the exhaust so that I know where it sits and judge where the number plate has to go with that in mind. I have a normal sized plate, but want to get one just slightly smaller. I have one just a slightly smaller on my DR-Z and you can't really notice it unless you look at it next to a normal sized one or measure it. The letters are still the same size, just less border.
-
Just realised I'd forgotten my Strom's plate number :shy:
-
...I reckon all the health and safety BS has made things like paint stripper a lot less effective than it used to be
Yes, you're definitely right there. Nitromors used to be evil stuff several years ago but it did do a cracking job of removing paint. There's quite a few products which are now unfortunately shadows of their former selves.
That Autoglym stuff seems to do a good job though - great recommendation.
-
It never rains here... it pours! :groan:
Southern California?
-
Just ordered a new number plate, 9" x 6.5". Should be here by Friday, I'll order an LED number plate light and some little round red reflectors too.
-
New number plate and my Motion Pro replacement throttle cables arrived today. Pretty quick for something that comes from the US. The throttle tube was delivered yesterday along with some other bits and bobs.
I continued to paint strip the radiator, it will need at least another one or two coats of paint stripper to have it perfectly cleaned up. The weather is probably going to be crap this weekend so I don't know if I will have the opportunity to spray it. If it's dry for a while I might pull it off, that's assuming the paint gets delivered, I ran out again :GRR:
Also spent time taking the tape off the oil cooler and fitting the Cymarc cover back on. Looks good again and hopefully it lasts better now that it has some paint on it.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-GBWpjFPdBXU/U2K6evh97CI/AAAAAAAAFCc/sDHgzlvUcZ8/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
I also cleaned the tail light unit and fitted the LED bulbs I bought for it. I swapped the stock indicator relay for an LED compatible one and then started on the throttle assembly. The SV1000 throttle grip isn't 100% the same as the DL one, but it will still work. I bought it because I was sure I wouldn't get the heated grip off the current throttle tube, but obviously it came off easily without any damage... I'll keep it, it looks like it will also fit the DR-Z, it was cheap enough. Fitted the new throttle cables and adjusted them properly. Also fitted new screws to the clamps that hold the throttle bodies in place in the intake manifold rubbers and tightened it all up. While I was at it I replaced the screws on the airbox clamps as well. I put a silicone plug, the same type that I used for the PAIR caps on the cylinders, over the opening of the PAIR solenoid valve on the airbox. It can now open and close all it likes without any effect :)
I'm looking forward to the weekend, I'm in the right mood to get a lot done. I feel optimistic enough to think that I might get to start it before the weekend is out :lala:
-
The weather will be on your side this weekend so we should see plenty more pics :)
-
I just checked email, the paint won't be here in time so it won't get started this weekend. I'll put the old radiator on temporarily so I can fit the plastic surround. I need it to be in place so I can fix the wiring loom plugs to it when I fit the loom.
-
I just checked email, the paint won't be here in time so it won't get started this weekend.
If you're stuck , Halfrauds do Upol #8 etch primer. Still can't work out how to insert a hyperlink to it.
-
I have the primer, thanks. I need the epoxy to cover it :)
-
I've just committed to wrapping the bike myself. The order for 6m of 1.5m wide 100 micron gloss orange vinyl is done. Probably more than I need, but I'm allowing for the inevitable mistakes made while learning.
Hoping to have the bike ready for MOT by next weekend, but I probably won't have it all wrapped by then yet.
-
I am REALLY looking forward to seeing the finished thing, come on Juv. hurry up please :sleeping-yellow:
-
Just messing a bit with your photo and ideia of cutting the Mudguard down (if you can't relocate seat lock). I don't really know the size of your number plate:
(http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j435/bosnjo3/IMG_0001_zps40127f25.jpg)
This exactly what I've done with my Vee , even fitted a small number plate light above the plate , I do have an 8x7 plate thought :shy:
-
The weather was fairly good today so I worked outside, this was a nice change. I spent most of the day on fitting the oil cooler, the wiring loom, the exhaust and doing random bits and bobs as I saw fit. I fitted the old radiator temporarily so that I can have the plastic shroud in place for the wiring routing. I also cleaned the last paint off the replacement radiator. When it's dry tomorrow I will clean it well with a solvent so that I can spray it with primer, hopefully the weather is decent. Some pics below.
What it looked like when I took it out of the garage this morning.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-It8WWY32njA/U2VL95dQBPI/AAAAAAAAFDY/HQ6OqtsK-38/s800/IMG_0004.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Mp0faanh_eM/U2VL9xRZ8KI/AAAAAAAAFDU/Dgj0Fv2LF3E/s800/IMG_0006.JPG)
Oil cooler fitted (you can see the nice exhaust studs in the pics too):
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-syCFqaHot9A/U2VL9zjIP6I/AAAAAAAAFDg/mHvYoM24oxs/s800/IMG_0008.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9vxhoFdjbKI/U2VL-hy9cAI/AAAAAAAAFDE/XR0FXrDX75g/s800/IMG_0009.JPG)
Wiring loom back in place, mostly:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-sOfVR52gyjc/U2VL-yjeELI/AAAAAAAAFDM/V0AsiHCQAa4/s800/IMG_0010.JPG)
Exhaust fitted:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-fIkOgiliowA/U2VL_PcPeGI/AAAAAAAAFDQ/1AjfcxJd7YM/s800/IMG_0012.JPG)
I lost the hanger bracket for the reg/rec, can't find it anywhere. No clue what happened to it, but I know I resprayed it and that was the last time I saw it. I really hope it shows up soon, I need to get it fitted.
-
can't wait to see the progress live:)
-
Looking great Juvecu, I bet you're enjoying putting it all back together.
I added another bracket to my GPR just below the can onto the original frame mount, might be worth doing.
-
Yep, good fun now :)
I'll have a look at your bike, I think it needs another bracket to hold the down pipe in place. How it is now I'm not confident it will stand up to the test of time. That's now the only thing that I find a negative on the exhaust and it's completely nit picky :)
I'm having lunch, but I might as well do a quick update. Got the rear of the bike sorted for now. The tail/stop light is in and the indicators are on. I fitted the old number plate back on and bodged the new LED number plate light for now. At the moment I just need it to be be running and an MOT pass, any spare time I have before the end of the month can be spent on the little things that take time to do.
I fitted the front light, speedo assembly and indicators on temporarily and put the battery on the bike so I can see if it comes alive. Luckily I can remember where I put my keys last year... on turning the ignition I get a CHEC, no FI :lala: Not sure what's causing the CHEC at the moment, but there's only so much that needs eliminating.
I also finished preparing the radiator and sprayed it with the etching primer.
I have pics of all of this that I will upload later today/tomorrow. Longman is visiting me so I'll be chatting tonight rather than working.
The next big mission after lunch is to turn the garage upside down to find the damned reg/rec bracket.
Things that still need doing are:
- fit reg/rec
- fit engine bars & bash plate
- fit pillion foot pegs
- fit pannier rails and luggage rack
- spray radiator and fit it
- put all panels back on
- put tank back on
- fit front sprocket and chain
- fit clutch actuator
- put fluids in (brake fluid, oil, coolant)
At this point I need fresh fuel and I expect it to start. Then it's just making sure everything is adjusted properly (rear brake switch, clutch cables, throttle cables, chain, etc.)
I'm hoping that I'm not overly optimistic thinking I can MOT it next weekend.
-
Starting to pick up speed now Juv. MOT first, then ST7 in 19 days.
-
These are the photos that go with yesterday's lunchtime update. After lunch I didn't do much, I had to mow the lawn and do a few other chores before longman arrived.
Radiator prepared for spraying:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K2zS5ALdvV0/U2dyY3MMxeI/AAAAAAAAFD8/UTAJlpctwmY/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
And after it's been sprayed with primer:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0x8TUlOyZ68/U2dyaJp-TQI/AAAAAAAAFEM/eB2rfZjY23g/s800/IMG_0004.JPG)
Bike with the rear and front lights fitted for testing:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-mtkFVCiaxyk/U2dyZBU0v3I/AAAAAAAAFEE/qyUTal-j2jc/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dzsF5SpjdfE/U2dyZpK9QyI/AAAAAAAAFEI/NCGxIipKfn8/s800/IMG_0003.JPG)
Still haven't found the damned reg/rec bracket :GRR:
-
I saw the bike yesterday and I have to say it is even more impressive when you see it in the real life. The amount of work put into this project is crazy. :thumb:
Also the quality of the painting jobs is really good.
-
Today was a slow day, as expected. I set out to fit the rear luggage rack, the pannier rails and the pillion foot pegs, but ended up only doing the rear luggage rack. The reason being that I need some new bolts for the pannier rails and also need to remove a stuck spacer for the pannier rails from both foot pegs. They are aluminium spacers that have corroded into the foot peg mounting holes. It seems they are corroded into the wrong holes and that I originally installed them in the wrong holes. Bit odd, but it seemed to work at the time :shy:
The rear luggage rack looks good in satin black powder coating and with all the new stainless steel bolts :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wuhMrnTKAPw/U2fZRMJLi4I/AAAAAAAAFEk/XMj-qz_qmLE/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
I also spent time washing all the panels and the tank. After this I used the Autoglym stuff to make the black plastics look good again. That stuff really works well, so easy to use too, I'm chuffed with the results.
Here everything is still drying, you can see how grey the plastics look. Compare that to how nice the tail unit looks (pic in an earlier post) then you can see the big difference.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-scyp6aphd5Y/U2fZRV9UhwI/AAAAAAAAFEo/uuCSIXACZ14/s800/IMG_0004.JPG)
It also occurred to me that my CHEC message when I turned the bike on could be due to the LED compatible relay being dodgy. I seem to remember there's some switch or relay related to the side stand and gear position sensor in that relay housing (this is why it has 7 contacts.) I put my old OEM relay back in (still have the normal indicators on) and I hope my hunch is correct :)
I still haven't found the damned reg/rec mounting bracket...
-
I have the primer, thanks. I need the epoxy to cover it :)
Actually, I have been struggling with this as well. For some reason no one in the UK seems able to supply a replacement supply of the VHT Epoxy Spray paint I have been using. I contacted the US supplier for advice on a UK supplier but they were useless and couldn't offer any help with a UK based seller. I'm trying to find SP652 Satin Black.
-
That's what I've been using, I get it from US Automotive via eBay. They are currently out of stock, but have told me they are getting some in this week. It gives a great finish that's much more durable than Hammerite, I'm never buying Hammerite again after using the VHT paints.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251521262520 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251521262520)
From this auction it looks like they've got it in today? :shrug:
-
I've always found hammerite to be sound stuff, and they have even improved its range and formulas over the years. It used to be dominant - the first paint you would turn to as a UK biker. Mind you, its only made a few miles from where I live in the Tyne Valley and had a factory shop where I could buy it discounted.
The dutch company who own it are moving to Ashington, but keeping the Prudhoe workforce employed, laying on transport buses etc, seems fairly decent, responsible.
http://www.hexhamcourant.co.uk/news/2.2 ... e-1.926788 (http://www.hexhamcourant.co.uk/news/2.2978/staff-will-move-to-new-akzonobel-site-1.926788)
Having tried other paints recently I know there are alternatives, but things being fairly equal, I'd rather buy Uk made stuff where possible :shrug: :) Just a point-of-view folks (don't want to divert the thread!)
Great job Juvecu ...what a brilliant chance to do a time-lapse as the bike gets bits bolted on! I've got a bottle of that autoglym stuff, had it years, never used it - I am today!
-
... It gives a great finish that's much more durable than Hammerite,....
I love the finish sure enough, used it recently on my tooltube project and exclusively on my brake calipers. I am a real fan of the process used to paint (two light coats 10 minutes apart and then a wet coat to finish - in fact I usually do three light coats 10 minutes apart and two 'wet' coats before I finish). But I love the way this stuff dries in 10 minutes ready for the next coat. You can see how it's going to look when finished very early on. I just wish it wasn't such a sod to resupply.
UPDATE:
Yup, the stuffs back in stock. Just ordered two cans to be on the safe side for now.
-
Juvecu, what colour/paint have you used on your central frame - or did you powder coat it (sorry I don't recall for now). I am slowly rubbing the paint off the frame by the foot-pegs (my boots are to blame). I could respray this along with the other Winter induced spots over the Summer or try some sort of rubberized padding to just cover that area.
-
Gassoon, I hear what you're saying and I still use Hammerite on occasion. What I like about this VHT stuff is the enamel component. That tends to make it more durable - especially when they start ladling salt onto the roads. I also feel that all these specialist paints are a little limited in their colour range - although they are improving year in year out. The other range I have tried (used this recently on my engine bars repair and refurb, is the Rustoleum range. I laid down a primer coat of theirs after returning the engine bars back to metal and was stunned by how great the primer looked - only trouble was I couldn't replicate that colour with the topcoat. Rustoleum again but wrong kind of 'black'.
I did a piss poor job on that top coat, but it will have to do for now. At least the bars are now protected from rust for a while longer. :angry-tappingfoot:
-
The frame was powdercoated satin black and the VHT SP652 is a very close colour match to it. If you have a look at the picture I posted of the rear luggage rack fitted, the brackets for the Givi plate that are bolted on top of the luggage rack were sprayed with the VHT, the rack itself is powdercoated the same as the frame. The biggest difference is in the texture, powder coating being thicker with less compliance to the underlying texture of the metal.
-
Just heard that they are only getting their shipment in on Thursday and will send out my backordered can on the same day. I will only get it on Friday then and if the weather is good enough I will be able to spray the radiator when I get home on Friday after work. I wanted to MOT Saturday afternoon so if I can't get the radiator sprayed and on by then then I will put the old one on temporarily.
I didn't do anything today, arrived home, got in bed and slept until 19:00. Was a bit knackered from the weekend, but will go to bed early tonight. I think the next thing I need to do is to check if the CHEC is gone after the relay swap, if that's the case then everything should work when I put the last bits back together.
Does anyone know if I will fail MOT if I don't have a front mudguard on? I need to be sure if it's a problem or not.
-
Juvecu - Have you any of the VHT SP652 stuff left? I don't have a whole lot left in my remaining can (probably just under a 1/4 can). But if it would help you get this done I could send it?
-
The mudguard thing, it looks like the general concensus is that it has to be fitted. Take a look at these;
http://mot.fasttrackmotorcycles.co.uk/111/motorcycle-mot-checks-body-structure/
http://www.visordown.com/forum/general/is-front-mudguard-an-mot-or-legal-requirement/286917.html
-
I only have a little left in one can, won't be enough as I do several light coats to get it quite thick, I want it to last well. Thanks for the offer, but I've thought of a way around it if I need to.
-
I've into some trouble now, just getting CHEC when I turn on the ignition. Kill switch is on, I opened it up and tested that the switch made the connection like it should. Bike is in Neutral, green light shows for that. The sidestand switch doesn't seem to work, but even if I bridge the contacts for that it makes no difference and in this scenario (in Neutral) it shouldn't display a CHEC for the sidestand. Clutch is out, but again, it shouldn't display CHEC either way.
No throttle bodies movement and no fuel pump noise at all (not even once since I put the bike back together.) Lights all work as they should except that the pass switch doesn't seem to work. The only thing not connected is the horn.
What else will give a CHEC? :shrug:
-
It is only kill switch in that scenario isn't it? No pump prime suggests that too. Very odd.
-
Will the clutch lever switch cause the problem ?
-
Hmm, this is the old model, the clutch switch is NC isn't it? I did replace the clutch perch with a 2nd hand one and it already had a switch in it. Off to go try my old perch! :grin:
-
Too excited about a possible solution too quick... I arrived in the garage and it clicked that pulling in the clutch would have the same effect as a busted switch and would make no difference anyway. Bike is in Neutral so CHEC should not display with clutch in either position (unless you press starter button.)
-
Must be something simple , trace the wiring back from the kill switch and sidestand switch and check all connectors.
-
Fuel system and ECU all plugged in properly? It's silly question time now.
-
It has to be the side stand switch or the kill switch. The only other reason it displays CHEC is if the speedo doesn't get the signal from the ECU to not show the CHEC. If the latter was the case then the STVA would still move and the fuel pump would still run.
Yes, I checked that all the connectors are plugged in properly everywhere.
Will check kill switch and side stand wiring, this is a PITA at this time :GRR:
-
No FI indicators are bothering me. Taking the airbox off should've given sensor errors. No change if I unplug the ECU, just still CHEC if I turn the ignition on. Clutch & kill switch test fine. ECU?
-
You're thinking on the dark side. If it was running fine before you restored it it should be fine. All earths connected as they should be ?
-
I've lost track of some things...did you connect up your reg/rec? (sorry - I know its obvious!)
Was the pass switch working before the stripdown? Sure you haven't cross-connected some block? Any part of the loom stretched as you've been manouevering the bike aboot?
-
All earth collection blocks were opened, cleaned of any corrosion and out back together with some ACF-50. I just disconnected every sensor connection around the throttle bodies and then some and not a single FI error. Made sure the ECU is plugged in properly, it gives a good click and the connector is flush, but it's pretty dead other than the speedo lighting up, doing the usual sweep, showing the last fuel bar flashing (fuel tank not connected), showing the odo and CHEC where the time was. It's no different when the ECU is disconnected.
When I removed the alarm from the wiring loom I made sure to be systematic about it. To find where things where wires were cut and to make sure these were soldered back together properly and then heat shrunk. IIRC there were few disconnections, but several spliced in connections. It was a very straight forward job and I am confident that it was done properly.
The quickest way now would be to plug my ECU into a K4-K6 bike to see if there's life. Is there any other way to check the ECU?
-
Reg/rec is connected, everything except the horn was connected, I even put the radiator fan and heat switch in. I don't know if the pass switch was working before the strip down, I never really use it. All it does is activate High Beam so not a train smash if it doesn't work. The wiring loom is set up so that you can't plug in the wrong connector to something else easily. Even so I did check similar looking connectors to make sure that wires going in and out of them have the right colours. There's only really 2 pairs of connectors that can be swapped, but because of the lengths between the connector and where it enters the loom they can't be plugged into the wrong place anyway.
-
I'm looking forward to see what Greywolf says.
-
I hope it makes me look stupid so that it can be something simple that I didn't think of :)
-
Juv - what is your battery putting out? The ECU won't wake with a really dead battery, will it?
All fuses checked? (Sorry I will keep on asking basic q's!) :)
-
Tilt switch ? Have you fitted it correctly ?
Wonder what will happen if you bridge the starter solenoid ?
-
Battery spent all this time on the Oximiser, it's putting out ~12V when the ignition is on. Fuses were all checked with a meter, Low Beam fuse is out so as not to drain the battery with the ignition on while troubleshooting.
No oil or fluids in the bike yet so I can't try to turn the engine.
Tip over sensor is in place, only fits one way around, and plugged in properly.
Thanks for the questions, blokes.
-
With the troubles I forgot to mention that my gloss orange vinyl was delivered today. I think I ordered twice as much as I need though...
-
Will the chec override any fault codes? So it won't start chucking them out if the dash displays CHEC? If so then nothing you do will throw a code.
The kill switch still niggles me, no pump prime. Where does it connect to? You said there's current across the switch but it could be further down, a loose terminal maybe?
-
I don't know if CHEC will override any FI errors, I really hope so as there's a chance then that it's not the ECU.
I didn't measure across the kill switch for a current, I disconnected the right switch assembly and checked that if the kill switch is operated that it completes/breaks the circuit as expected.
-
:thumb: Yeah, its multimeter time...the usual suspects are not in the clear yet!
Also try an instruments reset (99.8% not going to fix it, but easy to do) - press 'adjust' button, keep pressed and switch ignition on.
Will failsafes stop ecu working if no fuel/fuel tank present? :shrug:
Have you tried just the old-fashioned way of tapping and wiggling relays, wires etc under the seat and connections in the front fairings, and where the loom is tight?
-
Will try the adjust thing tomorrow, but don't have much hope for it.
STVA should still work with tank and airbox off.
Done lots of unplugging and replugging relays and wiggling of wires and so on. Not a fan of tapping on relays myself.
I think I need to meter if the kill switch has some current running through it when in the run position. That should give an indication if there is a wire break somewhere else in that circuit.
-
Yeah, that's what I meant, I wasn't clear, tested the switch to ensure it closes properly. Just because the switch works it doesn't mean the problem isn't further back. :thumb:
-
You've covered the situation nicely. The clutch switch has no effect on a CHEC. If the fuel pump doesn't run, there has got to be a problem in the ignition circuit so make sure the 10A ignition fuse in the #4 position is good. The TOS will show an FI if it has a problem, not a CHEC. If the side stand switch is working properly, it will connect the green wire to earth and throw the side stand relay in the flasher box. The relay coil has an orange/yellow on one side that is live when the ignition is on and a green wire on the other side that is connected to earth by the side stand switch. Can you hear if the relay throws when the side stand goes up and down? You can also check for power in the O/Y wire and earth in the green wire.
If the side stand relay in the flasher box throws, it will make the orange/black wire go live. The O/B wire feeds the kill switch. If the kill switch is in the run position, it will feed the power in the O/B wire to the orange/white wire which feeds the coils, the Lambda sensor and the fuel pump relay. If the fuel pump relay throws properly, it will power the yellow/red wire to feed the fuel pump and the injectors. Check for power in that daisy chain of wires to see if you can determine where power is lost.
-
I couldn't have put it better myself, Pat.
I couldn't even have put it the same lol :clap:
I'm especially suspicious of the relays, because they still need to be operating whether the switches are bypassed or not. At least spare relays are easily found, if it was that. Good luck with it after work, there, Juv :thumb:
-
There is a relay click when I turn the ignition on. I'm not sure the side stand switch works, I can't measure continuity if the switch is pushed in (or if it's out.) I disconnected it and bridged the black and green wires, but this makes no difference.
Thanks for the explanation on how the power path goes, Greywolf. I'll have to follow that, I figure it's the best bet to find the fault now.
Do you know if FI should show instead of CHEC with all the sensors disconnected or if FI will only show after the CHEC has cleared?
In fact, can someone do me a test on a K4-K6 Wee? The TO sensor is the one behind the battery and ECU, on the left of the bike in a rubber mount that only fits one way around. It has a light coloured connector with 3 wires, a red wire, a Brown with White tracer and a Black with Brown tracer. Just disconnect the TO, flick the kill switch to the stop position and turn the ignition on. Is it displaying CHEC or FI or are they flashing alternating. I'm quite worried that this might be the ECU and this check could show the contrary.
-
Hi Juv
with sensor disconnected and kill switch flicked into stop position the bike gives you the CHECK message. Just checked on mine (K5)
-
Thanks mate, that gives me some hope that it's just the kill switch that's the problem somewhere and not the ECU *phew* :)
Looks like I might have to open up my pretty wiring loom all over again :GRR:
-
Check the voltages at the connectors before tearing into the loom. It could be a connector, switch or relay problem.
-
That's the plan, hope it is a connector somewhere. I'll start on this in the next half an hour, just arrived home after work and need a short break :) I'll report back later, hopefully with good news...
-
My VHT paint just arrived - did you get yours yet?
-
Yep, was delivered today, a day early, but it's pissing it down here so can't spray anyway.
-
I've tested everything that Greywolf suggested and a few extras. It seems that I get power all the way to the fuel pump relay. The O/W wire on has voltage where it goes into the fuel pump relay, but if I measure between the O/W and the Y/B wire I get no voltage. This means the Y/B wire isn't completing the connection to negative. The Y/B wire goes into the ECU so I'm assuming the ECU is responsible for not connecting it. If there is a CHEC condition I don't expect the ECU to connect the Y/B because the ECU doesn't want to fuel pump and the injectors to have power otherwise turning the starter would start the bike.
I can only assume something else is causing the CHEC?
-
Also, the STVA has no voltage on it when the ignition is turned on (measuring probes attached before turning ignition on. Both those wires go directly into the ECU.
I checked a few other sensors, the IAP sensor and the ECT sensor, both give a reading when the ignition is turned on.
I also checked that the engine negative connection is proper. Replugged the speedo console and the big connector that feeds all the headlight area to make sure that everything is like it should be. Checked numerous other connectors again to make sure they are plugged in properly again.
-
So frustrating for you Juvecu, I wish I could help more :angry-tappingfoot:
-
you sure its not ECU? do you want to try mine?
-
I'm not sure it's not the ECU, I think it might be. I'd be great if you could send me yours, I'll pay postage both ways. I'll PM you about it :thumb:
-
Longman is sending me his ECU for testing/eliminating :clap:
-
:clap: you're a good 'one, longman :thumb:
I agree with locky, wishing I could help you with it. I woke up in the middle of the night thinking about Vstrom circuit diagrams and sensors! Yet I can't even be arsed to finish fitting my own bluesea! :shy:
Sidestand relay in the wee box next to the fusebox - can you definitely hear that one clicking when the switch/circuit gets closed?
TO sensor - have you tried 'resetting' it? Remove, and give it a good shake, like a terrier with a rat! I saw something on VSRI about it... :shrug:
Greywolf mentioned the lambda sensor ? Have you bypassed that (and remembered to do it again upon rebuilding!?)
BTW - Do ECu's retain their info / mapping indefinitely, or do they use an internal capacitor or something, or need to be kept on a power source?
You'll get there, Juv! :)
-
The relay clicks, the side stand switch is fine and irrelevant as far as this problem goes.
The TO sensor was removed, tapped on the frame a bit and replaced. Greywolf says it doesn't cause CHEC, but causes FI error if it's wrong. The service manual confirms this, C23 will be shown for it in dealer mode.
Don't know what you're saying about the lambda sensor? :shrug:
Another thing is that I can't even get the bike into dealer mode, but, again, I'm not sure if CHEC overrides this.
-
As far as I understand it, dealer mode can't be entered until there's an FI ? Or at least nothing will show in the way of fault codes...
About the O2, I'm still in 'check the simplest things first' mode, but it sounds like the problem is deeper than this! I'm a firm believer in tapping and wiggling stuff like TO sensors, relays etc, though I understand the dangers (slight) and looking for even a momentary change. :)
-
If you put it in dealer mode when there are no FI errors then it shows C00 and a line used to adjust the TPS. I now think that it won't show this until the check is resolved.
A colleague at work had a look at the wiring diagram and ask a few questions. I have a few extra things to check when I get home now.
-
Juvecu, I know you have your hands full with this electrical issue right now, but you mentioned previously a desire to wrap your bike?
This is one of the most useful videos I have seen recently dealing with the tank specifically. You may not have seen it and find it useful.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdfLij5dx2Q
-
I've received the orange gloss vinyl earlier this week. I've not seen that vid before, will come back to watch it some time later when I want to start doing the wrapping, thanks :thumb:
I will do the panels first, then the tank later. I have a black Bagster cover to go over the tank to hide the real colour :)
-
That's a good vid, just watched all of it without getting bored :) I don't see why he couldn't wrap it with one big piece starting at the top of the tank and working down on both sides? That is what I plan to do on the Wee tank and I think I can get away with it without having seams.
-
I need a sanity check, please.
Looking at the wiring diagram:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/ruz ... ematic.pdf (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/ruzq14k3x0ag2nm/DL650UKSchematic.pdf)
On the wiring diagram there are some connections just above the battery marked with the letter B on each wire. There's also similar looking connections with different wire colours up top on the right side of the ECM connections.
What are these? Are they commoning connections? In other words, does it just mean the different wires are connected together? :shrug:
-
Juv - I don't think they are commoned. It looks like you can get a negative on both sides of the side stand switch if they are common.
Are they just diagnostic connections? The wires go to empty plugs for later diagnosis?
It's hard to follow on a PC Screen, it would be better if I could print this on A3 and trace the wires with a highlighter pen.
-
I have it printed on A3 paper for use in the garage, helps a lot. Just need to be 100% sure about that part of the schematic to explain/understand some of the testing results.
-
The same symbols are used for connectors (plugs/sockets) elsewhere on the drawing, the unused ones maybe for different model spec/market?
It's cheaper for manufacturers to have a common harness and plug in what's needed for each model/variant.
-
That connector with all the Bs(black wires) was covered recently at viewtopic.php?f=58&t=22628&p=217064&hilit=what+is+this+connector#p217064 (http://www.v-strom.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=58&t=22628&p=217064&hilit=what+is+this+connector#p217064)
The connectors at the top are also for diagnostics. Four of those wires go to the dealer mode connector for example.
-
In that case the measurements make sense. I spent some time this afternoon checking continuity for various wires going to the ECU. I didn't check everything, but I tried to check everything related to the stuff that would cause a CHEC. I couldn't find any problems.
Longman's ECU will be here tomorrow, at least I will know if it's an ECU issue or not then.
-
It's not the ECU, I'll have to take the wiring loom off to open it up now. I don't seem to be able to find the fault with it on the bike.
-
Something to do with the alarm removal?
-
Must be, but I can't seem to find where the broken connection is that would cause the CHEC. Half the loom is off the bike at the moment. Starting to open it up, I soldered one joint and it might be that, but not counting chickens yet... I can't remember where the solder joint was.
-
Bit late now but if I make a change to a loom I mark it on the loom as I close it back up, normally just a loop of different colour tape, or if there are multiple changes then I use masking tape and note the change.
-
I only made 2 changes to the loom, the alarm cut in on 2 wires. The one is easy to get to and to remember about as it was at the starter relay. I have no clue where the other one was, but I will find it.The loom is completely off the bike now. I'm in the process of unwrapping all my nicely wrapped self amalgamating tape. Just taking a break for lunch then I will have at it again.
-
Gutted for you, but take a positive in that you are quickly narrowing it down. Paul's prediction: it will be running by tonight. Fingers crossed for you!
-
+1 I also think he's get it sorted now :) . Well done to longman for the ECU loan :clap:
-
No luck so far. I took the wiring diagram and marked out the stuff that I know has something to do with the kill circuit. Then went and tested everything on the wiring loom including all the switches. Not 100% sure how the gear position sensor should be tested when the loom isn't connected.
Here's the marked up version (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/x534qecfk47xkst/DL650UKSchematic-kill%20circuit.pdf), it might help someone else in the future.
So far I've opened up most of the loom again, but I haven't found this soldered connection I remembered about. I'm beginning to think I'm confusing it with the injector wiring that I fixed. The alarm only needed to cut one place in the wiring loom anyway to disable the bike.
-
Stopped for the day, stuck a blade into my left thumb cutting some heat shrink off, what a stupid mistake to make. It's nothing some super glue couldn't fix though, just better to leave it until tomorrow before using it in anger again.
-
So much for my lousy prediction:( Sorry to hear about the thumb. Watch it come down to something really daft like a duff battery. I remember when I got my GPZ up and running after changing the wiring harness on that. I spent ages trying to get it running (no fault codes in 1985!) but everything checked out fine with a meter. Turned out to be a small wire that went to the battery negative terminal along with the main ground lead. I forgot to connect it up!
-
Not the post I was expecting, id be getting pissed of with it by now but wouldn't loose faith. Chill out tonight with a glass of beer, you might be shouting eureka tomorrow.
-
Juv don't worry I will keep sending you my bike bit by bit until you find a fault:) I bet it has not been done yet:) Vstrom sent by post in packets:)
-
Way ahead of you on the beer :) I already lost my temper with the loom and bought a 2nd hand main wiring loom off eBay. I'm running out of time to get it MOTed and ready before ST7 and it's stressing me out now. I still have to spend some time sorting the routes and a few other bike related things before ST7 and the wiring issue is costing me too much time now.
-
That will cheer him up longman :) .
I'm starting to think it's something simple now, would a poor earth or a earth not connected cause the CHEC ?
Would it be best to refit the harness without it being taped up and bypass as much as you can, like the feed to the kill switch, feed to the side stand switch etc etc ?
-
It probably is something simple, but definitely not simple to find it :GRR:
-
I'm in the process of unwrapping all my nicely wrapped self amalgamating tape.
Too late now but non-adhesive loom tape as per O.E. would have been easier, maybe next time?.
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... g/tape.php (http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/sleeving/tape.php)
Shame I'm not a bit closer, I'm a sparky with experience of auto electrics so may have been able to help.
-
I'm only in Rugby :)
I quite liked the idea of the self amalgamating tape because I never expected to have to open the loom up again, at least not all of it. The self amalgamating take makes a really good seal against water and is thicker and flexible too. It's not difficult to get it off either, just takes time. I've never used non-adhesive tape, looks interesting too. The OE stuff that's on my loom is sticky, it makes a mess when you take it off, very thin stuff, easily damaged.
-
That's a happy coincidence, you mentioned "simple" and along I came... :) You've checked all the fuses I am going to assume. The bike was fine before the teardown, so can you cast your mind back and think of anything that was electrically based but was more of a pig to remove than you expected. Did you do any of this electrical teardown under the influence and may have 'forgotten' something that was problematic?
Yes, I am reaching now, but I feel the same frustration as everyone else here and want to find a way to help you get back on track Juvecu. We're all rooting for you :)
-
I've given up on the wiring issue, I will spend time on other things tomorrow and if I have time left I will look at the loom again. When the 2nd hand loom arrives I will check it and put that one on. I'm really hoping the weather gives me a break tomorrow so that I can spray my radiator and I still need to find the damned reg/rec bracket. Might spend some time cleaning out trash from the garage, it will make it easier to find things. Might be ambitious and try to wrap a small panel in vinyl. I'm going to try to get everything ready so that I only have to fit the loom, tank and front and rear side panels. Want to have it done by Wednesday evening so I book an MOT for the Saturday.
-
It occurs to me the CHEC is supplied when the ECM determines the requirements to run are not met. That normally comes from the kill switch or side stand switch. If a sensor is out of range, you get an FI on that sensor. There could be a limit on how much out of range or how many sensors can be involved. That limit may not have been surpassed before to get reported. If I were you I would get all the sensors connected before assuming there is even a problem.
-
I had everything connected to start with, then disconnected it all while testing and then reconnected it all to continue testing. Before I removed the loom this weekend everything was connected, even the airbox ones. Longman brought me his starter relay and tip over sensor last night so, once my thumb stops bleeding every time I want to use it, I'll swap those out to see if it makes any difference. I'm going to be might pissed off if the replacement loom displays the same problem as, besides for the gear position switch, I've tested everything else that might cause a CHEC. If the side stand is up, the bike in Neutral and the clutch is pulled in there's no reason why the gear position switch would cause an issue?
-
The gear position sensor will put out a C31 if it doesn't sense any voltage. The kill switch, side stand switch and ignition fuse are the only things in the manual that create a CHEC that would keep the fuel pump from running. Of course the connections between those can be involved too. A bad connection between the ECM and the display can cause a CHEC but the fuel pump would run. I've been trying to think beyond the manual at this point.
-
I'm stumped though, I've checked everything I could think was related to the kill switch, side stand switch and ignition fuse and I still can't find a fault. As far as I can tell all wires are fine, no breaks, some of them were tested multiple times before I started marking what I had already tested.
-
The weather wasn't too terrible when I got home today so I took the opportunity to spray the radiator. I coated it pretty thick, but managed to get no noticeable runs. I'll leave it to dry as long as I can afford to before fitting it.
I spent some time tonight putting on the the bits in the foot peg areas. Fitted the Cymarc foot peg lowering kit I sprayed black to my foot peg hangers. I'd bought stainless steel dome nuts as I didn't like the supplied nylon locking nuts. I fitted the gear brake lever, gear lever and new wider foot pegs too. Grease was applied in all the important places and I replaced the nuts, both the normal and counter clockwise threaded ones, on the gear lever adjuster with stainless steel ones. The gear linkages have surprisingly little play in them after all the mileage the bike has done, but the lever pivot was worn. That was replaced and the whole thing now has less play than it had before.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-KwEjFJjcq44/U3E4P_KMfpI/AAAAAAAAFFk/ZdXL7qKX0VI/s800/IMG_0013.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DshT0ZLaq2M/U3E4RcHkmvI/AAAAAAAAFFg/iXYELBQnAMk/s800/IMG_0020.JPG)
The photos, as often is the case, aren't that great, but you can see the important bits :)
Tomorrow I will fit the front sprocket, the chain and the clutch actuator. I'll leave the sprocket cover off so that I have access to the actuator, I need to adjust it properly. I'll also try to get brake fluid in front and rear and get the brakes bled. If I have time after that I will fit the chain guard and start fitting the plastics around the headlight area. I will also make a real mission of finding the reg/rec hanger bracket. If I can't find it I will have to make one as a temporary solution until I find it or decide to give up and buy one from a bike breaker.
On Wednesday I'm expecting the replacement (2nd hand) main wiring loom to arrive. I will be spending my time fitting that back in and putting the tail piece back on the bike along with the luggage rack. I'll put the rear tank support bracket back on, fit the radiator and it's guard and then get the fluids in the engine so it can get started. I'll need to adjust the clutch, balance the throttle bodies, make sure the TPS and fast idle are set properly (shouldn't need to touch those though.) Then I need to get the panels and seat on and some fresh fuel in it. Before I forget, I need to fit the grips and the screen and adjust the rear brake, gear lever and rear brake switch. The little adjustments can all really wait until Thursday though, I just need to know the CHEC issue is sorted and that the bike starts on Wednesday so I can book the MOT for Friday/Saturday afternoon. I'm confident that it will pass MOT, bar perhaps headlight adjustment, but the place I use are forgiving (read: happy to adjust it and then pass it, so far never at an extra fee.)
-
Do you use R&J's?
That list of yours is getting shorter. I hope the 'new' loom sorts out the chec issue.
-
Who/What are/is R&J? I guess that's a "no" :)
I use Nightingales in Rugby.
-
R&J's is an MOT place on Manor Rd. Very user friendly place.
-
Thanks, if I can't get in at Nightingales I'll try R&J :thumb:
-
Just spoke to the breakers to make sure they are sending the loom out today. He's sending it before lunch and will have it out 1st class.
-
Hello Juvecu hope things go well with new loom. I looked through thread but can't see if you posted bearing sizes and where you got them from for the swing arm and shock mount, did I miss it or could you point me to where you got the bearings as I think I'm going to change my swing arm after mines been sliced into by loose chain.
Cheers for any info.
-
I use these for bearings
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.html (http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.html)
-
Nice job Juv :thumb: Those domed nuts on the footpegs look so much better than the Cymarc original nylocks.
-
I use these for bearings
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.html (http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.html)
Cheers Locky, hoping Juv has a list of bearing sizes somewhere so I can order them and have them here before I start attacking them with ma hammer.
-
I bought the swingarm pivot bearings very long ago, just found the order confirmation email, it was dated 06/08/2011. I bought a swingarm pivot bearing kit from Wemoto, they must've either been the only place I could find the bearings or they had the right bearings at the best price. If you find your model bike on their website you should be able to get the bearings from them, any year 650 Strom should use the same swingarm pivot bearings. That said, unless you have reason to believe there is something wrong with them, e.g. you've checked them and you can feel excessive play/grinding, then I wouldn't change them. Mine came out after 100k+ miles in all weathers looking like I just took them out of the packet. The cream coloured grease wasn't even dirty. They are sealed in very well where they are and completely out of the elements so they will last practically forever. I had to remove mine because of the powder coating, they bake the stuff after they are powder coated, the grease runs out and any rubber seals are ruined on bearings. I have a note saying the swingarm pivot bearings are 2x 25x33x35mm drawn cup needle bearings.
The other bearings are difficult to get hold of, not helped by the fact that the parts fiche doesn't show the sizes. There are two bearings in the bottom of the swingarm that the dogbones bolt through. It's probably best to replace these as well as the ones in the cushion linkage while you're at it. Then again, if you check them and they are fine, skip the ones in the bottom of the swingarm, they can be a real bitch to get out. I had to TIG weld a bolt into the inside of each of mine and then hammer it out with a rod from the opposite side.
Unfortunately I can't find where I kept my notes with the bearings measurements and numbers. I have notes for "cushion" linkage bearings that say: "2x 17x24x25mm drawn cup needle bearing for cushion linkage (TA1725Z)". I guess these are the two bearings that are go in the cushion linkage where the dogbones would bolt through.
I have a Paypal receipt showing an order for a "IKO TA Series Open End Type Japanese Needle Motorbike Roller Bearings Swing Arm [TA2030Z TA 2030 Z 20x27x30mm]", here's the eBay link (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190827244843&var=490144639685). That's got to be either the bigger or smaller end's bearing in the cushion linkage, I'm just not sure any more.
I also found an order I bought from Marksman Industrial for:
2x TA172425UE03 -17x24x25mm SEALED
1x BHKM1726JUU - 17x24x26 SEALED
Judging by the size of the TA172425UE03 they are either the ones in the swingarm for the dogbones or the cushion linkage for the dogbones, likely the latter, being sealed.
The BHKM1726JUU, again judging by the size, is the smaller end on the cushion linkage, the shock side. This would mean the TA2030Z I mentioned up top is the one that goes into the larger end.
Not as accurate as you might've hoped for, but it's the best I can do by patching the info back together. I have no idea where my real notes are.
-
Juv - can you stop posting on this thread and get everyone else to stop posting too please, until you sort the loom? Every time I see it in the unread message list (especially if you're the last updater) I'm clicking on it hoping to see a message from you which says "loom's in, all connected, bike fired up"! :confusion-waiting:
-
I put brake fluid in and bled the brakes when I got home today. Also fitted the old front mudguard, it will be replaced though as it has a crack. I fitted the speedo and the plastics around the headlight along with the indicators. I also fitted the new heated grips, I just tied the wires up neatly for now, I will wire them in later. I decided to leave the radiator to dry for another day, I could still smell the paint. I also cleaned the clutch actuator, greased it and reassembled it. Didn't quite get everything done that I wanted to, but it's only really the front sprocket, chain and chain guard and they can get fitted later.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lncZ2TOAE60/U3KcNoqlz5I/AAAAAAAAFF8/MJX5UP-K-BY/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pB5zuCbwFt4/U3KcN78lefI/AAAAAAAAFGA/HAtsk2c-Tcg/s800/IMG_0007.JPG)
It looks a bit more like a Strom every time I work on it now :)
-
I'll receive the replacement loom tomorrow, so if I post tomorrow night it will be the real :lala: or :bawl: post.
-
:handgestures-fingerscrossed: :) (The suspense is killing me!)
-
+>1 (all of us) :)
-
Picture of the gear actuator reminded me my biggest nightmare when me Hutchie and Juv were going to Moto gymkhana and I dropped it at 11pm on my garage floor and all the balls went all over the place. I found them and put everything back on the bike at 2am. Then I was leaving 4 hours later :)
-
I've lost a few ball bearings in the past. I just spaced the rest evenly and used it like that until I could replace them.
-
I was missing a few of the balls for god knows how long.
surprising how much difference if makes to the gear change with 3 missing, and they were spread over the drive. I've stripped it a few times so don't know when I'd lost them.
Can't wait for Juv's post>>>> It's Alive!
-
Not quite there yet, but just got home and the loom is here :grin:
-
Not quite there yet, but just got home and the loom is here :grin:
Is that the "Fat Lady" I can hear warming up?!
-
The new loom works! No CHEC!
Time to get the rest together and start it, no baffles :)
-
Drum roll maestro...
-
I'm happy for you Juvecu :occasion-balloons: :occasion-balloons: result :)
-
WAHE-E-EY! :lala:
-
Wait for the fat lass to sing. Got to be any time now...
-
Of course you'll now have to spend some time understanding why the old loom was no good and fixing it for a spare which you'll probably never need :)
-
It looks a bit more like a Strom every time I work on it now.
With the headlights in and the front fairing on, it is a Strom now.
Looking forward to your "it started up OK" message.
-
Looking forward to your "it started up OK" message.
Me too!
-
Wonderful. Now I need to see if I can forget about what could have been wrong with the old loom.
-
:lala: Great news Juv! :clap:
-
Pull your bloody finger out :GRR:
-
CHARGE! Nice one Juvecu <!-- s:thumb: -->:thumb:<!-- s:thumb: --> But the old one's going to bug you now :fix:
(http://bloximages.newyork1.vip.townnews.com/timesdispatch.com/content/tncms/assets/v3/editorial/d/a6/da64e360-a98b-5730-822f-13d2b033703e/50f460ebc3649.image.jpg)
-
Bring the old one to Stromtrekkers to give us all something to do when the bar closes :haha:
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xos2MnVxe-c
Started at 22:30! :lala:
-
Yay! At last! Erm, you need to set your watch too!
-
Well done that man, excellent news.
-
It was a mistype, supposed to be 22:30, I updated it :)
This is what the new loom looked like after it was unpacked. If you look closely you'll see it is in very good condition, all the connectors are spotless and none of the contacts have the slightest signs of corrosion. It came of a K6 that has done 6k miles so not unexpected.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7apwO_Y8oJA/U3Puu4K15iI/AAAAAAAAFGo/ngzi1zz6ZIw/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
Anyone who's ever seen how bad this yellow connector can corrode will appreciate how good this one looks :)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HhEToY560ak/U3PuuogsGRI/AAAAAAAAFGg/wCa6tMeBphI/s800/IMG_0006.JPG)
At first sight this picture is nothing special, but this picture was taken the first time after the replacement loom went in and the bike turned on without CHEC :lala: Sure like a Kodak moment if there was ever one? :shrug:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Uvn0674Rj60/U3Puvp52MXI/AAAAAAAAFG0/YxY6dWgp5C0/s800/IMG_0007.JPG)
And this is how it was left when I finished for the night, shortly after it started.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-EeSM6SLSRN4/U3Puv6Wbh1I/AAAAAAAAFGs/hn6mJkxMTJk/s800/IMG_0008.JPG)
I still have to fit the front sprocket, chain and clutch actuator. Have to adjust the clutch and then make sure the gear and rear brake lever are adjusted properly. After that it's only panels, the luggage rack and a few bolts. I will book the MOT for Saturday afternoon.
The battery is shot, shows 11.8V if the ignition is off and 0.5V if it's on. That's a bit disappointing since I kept it on the charger all the time it was off the bike. It is a shitty quality one, so I'm replacing it with a Motobatt now.
I tried to jump the bike from the DR-Z battery, but that is puny and it soon became apparent that I will just wreck it. I then pulled the car up and jumped it from the car. It took about 2 minutes to get it started, spewed a few blue flames a couple of time before I got it going. With the GPR exhaust it was thunderous when it started and I had to blip the throttle a couple of times "to make sure everything is OK" obviously. The good lady came down and shouted something at me, I could see she was angry, but I couldn't hear a word of what she was saying lol I'm going to have to put the baffles in for the MOT :crazy:
Now I can't wait to ride my Strom again :lala:
-
Well done that man :clap: :clap: :clap:
-
snip....... ones in the bottom of the swingarm, they can be a real bitch to get out. I had to TIG weld a bolt into the inside of each of mine and then hammer it out with a rod from the opposite side..
For anyone without a tig and this is much easier...
Tap a thread, around 20mm into one end of the bush. Add a bolt.
From the other end of the bush, widen out the inner diameter with drill bits - you're reducing the wall thickness of the bushing here. Then use an extension bar/rod etc through the new, widened hole. Smack with a hammer, so you're effectively hitting the tip of the bolt.
This causes the wall diameter to shrink by stretching the bush.
Loving this thread btw.
-
Good one;)
-
Feeling very cross with you Juv
I've prided myself on never watching any soap opera for 25 years and now I find myself watching this one morning and night. I've been drawn in and betrayed my principles :angry-tappingfoot:
Seriously though great work - looking forward to the final episode soon....
-
This isn't a soap opera, more a documentary. "A bike is born."! Now it's all painted up the mileage looks about three digits too long! :)
-
New battery ordered, will be delivered tomorrow. I have to wait until 08:30 before I can call them to book the MOT.
Now that I think about it, I'm amazed that the fuel that was left in the tank was still OK... I think I'll go fill it after the MOT to mix a lot of new in with the old and then I might have ride it a bit to make sure it's all working fine :grin:
I came into work a bit earlier today so that I could leave a bit earlier, should give me enough time to do everything I need to tonight.
-
While fuel will degrade over time its probably slower than you think, but I would also fill up with some new stuff as well, just to help with the "testing" :grin:
-
WOooooooooooo! Congrats Juv :)
-
MOT booked for 14:00 on Saturday :lala:
-
:clap: :clap:
-
:clap: Hallelujah!
-
Where does that yellow plug usually reside on the bike Juvecu - given your comments about corrosion I might just go take a look at mine.
-
Just caught the end of this thread. So talk me through it step by step .... don't spare the details .. every turn of the spanner, every clonk with the hammer.... oh, you aleady have !
Hats off to you - a real achievement and it must feel real good - are you going to miss the experience ?
-
Many Congratulations Juv - top job :thumb: Its been fascinating following the thread and it will be very useful for anyone contemplating picking up the spanners. Well done that Man :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
-
Just caught the end of this thread. So talk me through it step by step .... don't spare the details .. every turn of the spanner, every clonk with the hammer.... oh, you aleady have !
Hats off to you - a real achievement and it must feel real good - are you going to miss the experience ?
don't think he will miss it:) at least not for the next couple of years:) especially the stress at the end:) and aching hands:)
-
I'm already thinking of getting the DR-Z's frame powder coated, but that is only a 2 weekend job, it's neat otherwise.
-
Where does that yellow plug usually reside on the bike Juvecu - given your comments about corrosion I might just go take a look at mine.
It looks like the one under the air box behind the radiator .. it holds wires for the left hand switch in the main, horn, signals, main beam, etc ..
-
Yes that's the plug, here's a pic of mine, 2011 model Wee with 7000 miles
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/64012197/Wee%20L0/20130228_143306.jpg)
-
Dear Mr Juvecu,
You should be ashamed of yourself.
Trying to blag a 560 reply thread on how you've done all this work, claiming to have been paying attention to detail, when clearly your bike shows 102875 miles, but your profile only shows 102459 miles.
Kind regards,
Shocked and Disgusted of Swindon.
(PS - Bloody well done)
(PPS - Is the Reg/Rec attached to a section of washing up liquid bottle or something?)
-
Juvecu, thanks for the reply, I'll wait until I have it all stripped and check then like you suggest.
-
Lots of photos tonight to show the last bits of progress before it's MOT ready.
I cleaned and fitted the chain, the front sprocket and the clutch actuator. I used a new securing washer for the front sprocket, they're dirt cheap from a dealer and my old one was pretty messed up. I also adjusted the clutch cable by feel for now. I don't have a battery in the bike so I will adjust the bite point tomorrow afternoon when I get home and fit the new battery.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DLtDNKRGGGk/U3UqrZL-9dI/AAAAAAAAFHQ/rC2dc-9kB-A/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
I put my Cymarc chain guard back on, I'm a riding advertisement for him :)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H8qzRlNbUWc/U3UqtYKuDCI/AAAAAAAAFH8/vriECeS3DIU/s800/IMG_0005.JPG)
Fitted the front sprocket cover again, this time I can use the top bolt to secure it too as I've finally repaired the threaded bit for it.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-wIVEOYGM9kA/U3UqsmaBm6I/AAAAAAAAFIc/-VuVJkSvzqk/s800/IMG_0006.JPG)
Rear side panels fitted.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6YiKsFH76Fo/U3Uqtk2a4yI/AAAAAAAAFHw/Oefz8Mdffh8/s800/IMG_0007.JPG)
Luggage rack and front side panels fitted.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Wzqgm46-wZE/U3UquYFxJ_I/AAAAAAAAFIE/jT9-jPAf19c/s800/IMG_0009.JPG)
Everything except screen and mirrors!
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PWZIoOj9kBA/U3Uqukx6amI/AAAAAAAAFIQ/FPGv5YBjmPY/s800/IMG_0014.JPG)
I also put on some brackets to hold the front brake pipes and speedo cable in place.
This is where I stopped for the day as the food was ready and the beer ran out.
I anyone was wondering, I still haven't found the damned reg/rec bracket :GRR: I've searched everywhere in the garage and even searched the bins! I've given up on it and temporarily used some brackets I had lying around that seemed to fit OK. I'll get one 2nd hand somewhere. I also didn't fit the radiator fan, it's never kicked in and I'd for become to rust treat and spray it, I'll fit it later after I've done that.
There are a lot of other little things that still need doing, most notably the vinyl wrapping, spraying of the engine cases and water pump, fitting a new front mudguard and doing some auxiliary wiring. Also, I have to fit my engine bars, bash plate, hand guards, pillion footpegs and rear luggage rack. At this point I just needed to have it ready to pass MOT this weekend and I'm very happy that I've made it and still managed to get an MOT slot booked on such short notice.
-
Looking very smart, you done a great job. Folk won't believe the mileage now.
-
The home straight is the best bit of any project. I wish mine looked half as good with only 40k on it.
How do you think you've done regarding sticking to your budget?
-
Not a clue how much it cost me, but I'm fairly sure it's way over budget. I'll tot it all up when it's all done and dusted, it might take me a weekend to go through the stack of receipts and to find all the Paypal confirmations, not to mention going through my bank statements for the direct transfers. On the one hand I don't want to know, on the other, I'm too diligent at wanting to keep my maintenance spreadsheet accurate so I will do it some time or another, but I have a feeling it will be a few months before I get around to it :grin:
In the end, even if I spent enough to buy a 2nd hand bike with half the mileage it wouldn't be near as nice as what my Strom is now.
-
It looks like a bike I remember know;) well it finally looks like a bike;)
-
You've done a grand job Juv! :clap:
I can't wait to see it in the flesh next week.
-
Epic thread Juv. I've just caught up after the CHEC saga was left unrectified before I left home. Something wrong with the loom in the end then, and the only change being the alarm removal... I'm fairly sure you no longer care and the bike has a much newer loom into the bargain, good shout with ordering that.
-
Thanks for the journey an congrats to you doing such a great job!
shes ready for the next 100k miles...;)
-
You're going to be lost for something to do when it's all over. Never mind, I'll bet you're other half as been collecting tasks to keep you busy and get some payback :)
-
Still some things left to do so I will keep everyone updated on those as well.
The wiring loom fault still bugs me, when I have time later on I will look into that again. I'm sure I can fix whatever is wrong with it once I find it.
-
Meh, the eBay seller I usually buy the mirrors from has contacted me to tell me they have a quality issue with their current batch of mirrors. Refunded my money and I'll have to go looking elsewhere.
-
please tell me you have another project to do, otherwise what am I going to use as bed time reading?
-
Excellent job Juvecu, :ty: for the thread! It's been really interesting to see it all unfold and you've done a great job with some very good technical knowledge!
My Dad completely restored a 1955 Matchless 350 single (in 6 boxed of bits when he got it) and I know how much work and dedication it takes, I was roped into help rather a lot and that was a simpler project.
Just out of interest, have you kept any sort of log of what it has cost you along the way?
I know the initial thinking was that it was more economical to do this than let it go for a stupidly low amount of money.
-
I'll tot things up later, probably in a month or two after I'm sure there's nothing else that needs adding/changing. No idea what it cost so far, but it's definitely over budget.
-
No idea what it cost so far, but it's definitely over budget.
But it looks like it was worth the overspend - hope all goes well for the MOT (don't forget to bed the new pads in on the way)
-
Looking forward to seeing it next weekend. I bet it looks in better nick than my Glee now.
-
Spent a bit of time on it to make sure all is good for the MOT. Made sure the rear brake switch is set properly, put a right side mirror on, fitted the new battery and fitted the Madstad and my sports screen. Noticed both my new LED side lights are dead, I'm done with putting LED side lights in, they never last. I need to go buy new side light bulbs and fit them then it's completely ready for MOT. I also insured it today so once it has MOT I can put tax on it & ride :lala:
I couldn't resist a quick run up and down the road today though. The dead end road I live in is a short, ~200 yards. The first thing I noticed was how heavy the Wee is compared to the DR-Z I've been riding. That's also without some bits that still need refitting.
-
Ride my S10, your Wee will feel light again :)
-
MOT passed!
-
Superb! Now get some miles in! :)
-
now you're done... come give me a hand with the cx500.
Got to give it to you mate, not many would bother sorting out a bike with that sort of mileage. But its looking good mate and should be good for another 100k.
Well done. Looking forward to seeing it in Scotland.
-
MOT passed!
:thumb: :obscene-drinkingchug:
-
Excellent news Juv, top job mate, well done. Don't think I could have done it.
-
How many bolts do you have left over? I've got a good hand full of random bolts in a box from the cx and can't figure out how they are supposed to go back on.
-
MOT passed!
:clap:
Now your bike (a similar age to mine) is not going to look like it has done 83K miles more.
-
Just came back from a loooooooong ride. My arse isn't used to the Strom at all, but it was still a lot more comfortable than the DR-Z is. Actually, scratch that, the DR-Z isn't comfortable at all, it's bearable. I had only one advisory at MOT, the steering bearings are tightened a little too much. I thought this might be the case, but I have a rather too tight than too loose thing about steering bearings. It's noticeable when you ride if you know about it. I also noticed the effects of not having a fork brace on. It only took about 10 miles to be back into the swing of the Strom, heavy beast that it is, it can go around corners very well. I really missed riding my Strom and I'm glad it's back together now. The Strom is noticeably slower than the DR-Z when it comes to acceleration, but the power band is much much wider. I was cruising around at 90 indicated with an MX helmet and goggles on before I noticed how fast I was going, when you get that fast on the DR-Z you really know it, the Strom is still relaxed there.
I have lots of bolts left as I was replacing them with stainless ones as I went about putting the Strom back together. It looks like there's a few more bolts left than there should be, but I don't know how that's possible, I was making sure everything I put back on was bolted on properly. Perhaps I just don't realise quite how many bolts I've been replacing.
I still have a few small things to sort before I ST7, but I doubt it will be much work. Locky has also sent me a front mudguard to replace my damaged one (why I haven't fitted the fork brace back again yet.)
I have a niggle with the gear lever, the combination of wider foot pegs and the Cymarc foot peg lowering kit has now made it so that I can't adjust the lever quite as high as I need it. I will need to find a longer lever or I will need to shave a little bit out of my current gear lever so it can adjust higher.
-
Great news Juv...
But...
I'm still waiting for few final photos of your bike parked at the daylight. The last one was almost at night, without mirrors and screen.
C'mon, Wee deserves to show off a bit.
:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
-
Well done on getting it sorted before ST7 :) Can't wait to see it now.
-
I will get "final" photos up when I have the new mudguard fitted, the engine bars and bash plate are on, the rear pannier racks and the pillion foot pegs are on. Also need to fit the hand guards still. All this will happen this week, before ST7.
Then after I've wrapped it I will take another set of "final" photos. Then the real final photos will be when I've painted the engine cases.
I'll use the good lady's good digital camera for all these photos :)
-
The usual move on the shifter to accommodate the lowering kit is to rotate the link on the shifter shaft that comes out of the engine by one spline.
-
That's not the problem, the shifter lever itself is contacting the bottom of the foot peg bracket on up shift. I have it set as high as I can, so it just touches at the extreme of the up shift, but it's a bit low for my normal riding boots (Alpinestars Scout) and way too low for my off road boots (Alpinestars Tech3 AT.) It also seems that the wider foot peg is affecting the space I have between the shifter tip and the peg. A longer shifter can alleviate both problems.
-
Most of the day spent working on the Strom. Fitted my PD Oiler again, fitted my fuse box, my 12V socket and my Garmin power cable. Rust treated the tank edges and bottom and also the radiator fan motor. Then sprayed the radiator fan motor and when it was dry I fitted it too. Fitted my rear luggage rails and pillion foot pegs. Also loosened my steering a little, it was an advisory on the MOT.
Just need to fit the protection, Acerbis hand guards on the way (thanks Locky for the pointer), bash plate needs fitting and also engine bars. I'm not sure I'll be able to change my Pass switch to a PTT for the radio before ST7, but it's not the end of the world either, I can do it some other time.
No photos today, way too busy and had to do a lot of other stuff for the good lady. Knackered, but happy that this is now done this far.
-
Locky generously donated a OEM front mudguard and sent it to me. It just arrive today and I'll fit it tomorrow along with the bash plate and crash bars. I hope the handguards also get delivered tomorrow so I can fit them too. I'll take some good photos then :thumb:
-
Did it go through the MOT without the pillion foot pegs on? A mates bike failed a year or two back because he had a pillion seat but no pegs, he had to nip home and change the seat for a cowl he had, then it passed.
-
Yep, passed without issues, same for the DR-Z, doesn't have pillion pegs either. Your mate's MOT man is full if crap, they can't fail you for not having pillion pegs, they can only fail you for not having a chain guard if you have pillion pegs fitted. I want to fit pegs anyway, just haven't got around to replacing them. The peg mounts are very angular and will do some damage if I fall and get my leg caught on them.
While we are on the subject of pegs, I'm going to put my old rider's foot pegs on back on for now. The shifting trouble I have with the wider pegs is too annoying to ride with. I'll need to get an extended gear lever for the Wee or modify mine myself. Does anyone know where you can buy an extended gear lever for the Wee?
-
Did some work today that I needed to get done before ST7 still. Fitted the new mirrors, but took some comparison shots first in case someone was interested in an alternative to the Tuono style mirrors. The mountings are much slimmer than the Tuono style ones and the shape is slightly different. These are a little bigger vertically and have a point rather than rounded end. They are also smooth gloss plastic rather than the matt textured plastic.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GHnXIUBD9wM/U3ul23PhDaI/AAAAAAAAFJQ/c-H0MNAXx3I/s800/IMG_0001.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rNK_2vAeoAk/U3ul23JOc0I/AAAAAAAAFJU/SagtAqnySQk/s800/IMG_0002.JPG)
Here's a link for them on eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251342315374), have a search around though, there are other sellers that sell them too. They came in their own branded box, neatly packed in bubble wrap.
Here they are fitted to the bike.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZW957qRFrt8/U3umtiOPYoI/AAAAAAAAFKk/-EwwgWQMRLQ/s800/IMG_0003.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-OOi1Se19xpo/U3umt7pFBnI/AAAAAAAAFKo/Bnrbkr4urMI/s800/IMG_0004.JPG)
Locky's been very generous and gave me his old Wee front mudguard. I fitted my old mudguard extender.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U3_DprvsqQc/U3ul4GjLNZI/AAAAAAAAFJw/pmat5OkUs7o/s800/IMG_0008.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d09AysVhUYY/U3ul4dAPjRI/AAAAAAAAFJo/LYkWpzP6koo/s800/IMG_0010.JPG)
I also fitted my engine bars and my bash plate, but it started raining so I didn't take any pictures.
-
Well done Juv
A long journey but it must be very satisfying- you are an inspiration to all of us.
Regards
Pat
-
Thanks Pat, I documented it so everyone can enjoy it with me. I do like a good build thread with lots of pictures myself so tried to keep to that :)
More pics this afternoon after I've fitted the fork brace and hand guards and given it a quick wash :thumb:
-
I will have a pleasure to be one of the first people to inspect Juv's bike tomorrow:)
-
It could be August before I see it. :(
-
Fitted the fork brace today and also adjusted the gear lever a bit. Just need to take some slack out of the throttle cables and will see if I can fit some hand guards tonight as I haven't received the ones I ordered yet.
Took some "final" pics, all that's missing (that you will be able to see) is the hand guards and the colour change to orange now.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Wa1yv_VcAfU/U30Fbz9YaGI/AAAAAAAAFLQ/X8jjPaKjaRs/s800/P1010775.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8bK4OvIqJpE/U30Fb6MemaI/AAAAAAAAFLE/vrpwCrYQN4U/s800/P1010776.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-QmJ6zMPA7oQ/U30Fb2MYv1I/AAAAAAAAFLI/l3uoHr6_QiQ/s800/P1010777.JPG)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-TgpdTGzQalE/U30FdGyctcI/AAAAAAAAFLU/kAYHNgZmEFc/s800/P1010778.JPG)
-
It's a bit dirty now :neen:
-
But should clean up much better than it did before :)
-
Finished just in time, again :)
-
Looks good! :thumb:
-
The Euro sport screen and the Madstad bracket combination look odd. The bracket really isn't needed with a screen that size but I guess you wanted to reduce the air flow up high.
-
You can't be more wrong about it not being needed. Without the adjustment the screen is just as bad as any other. It's mounted in the top most "secret" position, but the screen is pushed down all the way. I am still playing around with it again after putting things back together. You'd be surprised how much difference it makes to be able to move the screen up and down and to also tilt it. Even with a little screen like that it makes a big difference if you just move it a little bit. In a way it's great, I can have a small screen on and still have it direct the wind where I want it. In winter I fit a normal Strom screen for the extra protection.
-
Personal preference. I like a sport screen as low as possible and wind on my body. If I want more protection on a long ride or on a cold day, I put the big screen on.
-
NIce one Juv, looks really tidy now :clap:
-
Great, great, great... Looks just like a new bike out of the showroom floor. You did great job, Juv.
Just out of curiosity, do you have any rough idea of money you've spent on this project?
-
Nope, but I will add it all up later.
-
Tapatalk convert Juv;)
-
Hi juveco
How are you getting on with the vinyl?
-
Haven't done much bike stuff lately and haven't started on the vinyl. I was thinking about it this afternoon and I might start on a panel if the weather is bad this weekend.
I might need to remove my footpeg lowering kit, I'm scraping the foot pegs away :)
-
I want to say "I told you so" ;) sane problem here. Scraping foot pegs away. But it's fun;) sometimes.
-
That's why I've never bothered fitting them. ;)
-
Most people who have that problem either ride like maniacs or keep their bodies straight up instead of leaning into the turn.
-
Yes, I ride like a maniac and can't always be arsed to move my body. Would you now please stop telling others how they should/shouldn't be riding riding unless they've asked for advice on the subject?
-
Would you now please stop telling others how they shouldshouldn't be riding riding unless they've asked for advice on the subject?
I'm an old riding instructor who gets irked by most riders I see making basic errors in form. I was speaking of them and they don't know enough to ask. Hopefully, UK riders are better educated and practiced than USA riders with our poor rider education requirements. A good rider with even the best form will be limited by lowered pegs all right.
-
Yes, I ride like a maniac andcan't always be arsed to move my body. Would you now please stop telling others how they shouldshouldn't be riding riding unless they've asked for advice on the subject?
If you think that's bad, you should spend some time on the US sites :)
-
I like to ride a little bit quicker sometimes. I normally bimble and enjoy the ride. However, when I am on twisties and in a "spirited" mood (not like a maniac) I do scrape pegs. I sometimes can't be bothered to move my body as I enjoy forces working on the bike and me in the corners. I normally scrape pegs when really committed to the tightening corner and need to lean the bike a bit more. I had the same problem on the track when I was scraiping pegs during every lap. I don't really see it as a problem. I enjoy riding the bike the way I like it and they give me a great benefit off road. Its not a sports bike so I don't expect leaning angles as good as on a sport machines. I just like my bike not being vertical:):):) :auto-dirtbike:
-
I've had an FI problem twice now. Once on the way back from ST7 and once a earlier this week when I turned the ignition on. The first time I used my spare key to get the seat off and put it in dealer mode before I turn the ignition off. The 2nd time I just turned the ignition off and back on. Both times it reset after the ignition was turned off and back on and it didn't seem to affect the bike while it was riding and showed up the error the first time. I thought I noted the code the first time around, but I can't find where so I'll have to wait for it to appear again to find out what it is.
Other than this a few things still need doing aside from the orange vinyl wrapping, I need to:
- balance the throttle bodies
- set the fast idle lower
- adjust the new throttle and clutch cables a bit now that they've been used a while
- fit another horn (dropped mine and it's damaged, sounds a bit sick now :shy: )
- wire in the heated grips
- extend the shift lever so I can fit the wider rider foot pegs again
- get some pillion foot pegs
- make a mid mount exhaust hanger bracket
- and sort out the intermittent FI code.
-
still quite a list:)
I am quite sure the first time you had an error it was C41 (fuel pump). We were at the petrol station on the way back from ST7
-
I had the error again today after filling up and turning the bike back on. I didn't have my spare key with me so I just turned the ignition off and back on and it cleared again.
-
Just a little update related to this. The FI error went away never to be seen again, hasn't done it since the last post I made above.
I also haven't found the regulator/rectifier bracket, even after a tidy up in the garage. I've manged to get a 2nd hand one for a tenner so that's a good result. I bet I will find my own one soon after fitting it's replacement :)
The fork seals have started leaking again, just on one side. I opted for OEM ones to replace them this time. They cost a lot (£15 each!) and I can't really tell any big difference between them and the 'Japanese' quality ones I was buying off eBay for a lot cheaper. I really hope there is a difference, all the cheap seals I've bought so far have eventually started leaking no matter how much care was taken putting them in and I have fork gaiters to protect the dust seals. I replaced them a couple of weekends ago when I changed my fork oil for 5W oil for the upcoming Morocco trip. The result of the oil change is a much more comfy ride over bad bumpy road surfaces, but with a bit more of a bouncy feeling at the front. I've always felt the rebound damping on the Wee's forks is too much and this probably confirms it again, unfortunately the Wee forks' damping isn't adjustable.
I haven't got around to vinyl wrapping the bike to orange :shy: I will make it my winter project.
Other than that, I'm going to remove my foot peg lowering kit for now, I want to be able to fit wider foot pegs and use my off road boots for Morocco and with the lowering kit I can't have wider foot pegs or use off road boots. My off road boots are too big for the amount of upward adjustment left in the gear lever before it hits the bottom of the foot peg mounting bracket on up shifting.
Other than that there are no problems after the rebuild so I'm very happy with the results. It needs a good wash and it looks new. I still have to wire the heated grips, something this morning's nippy weather reminded me of. I also need to fit a different horn, I dropped the stock one and it's wheezy now.
-
could the leaky seal be due to the thinner oil you used :shrug:
-
Nope, it had 10W before, I just put 5W in now with the OEM seals.
-
The bike ticked over to 110,000 miles on the way back up through Spain from Morocco.
After the restore it was using more oil than before. I'd noticed the valve stem seals were letting oil by while I was changing the exhaust headers for "new" 2nd hand ones. I did 3225 miles in 13 days on this Morocco trip and I used almost 2 litres of oil. Twice the bike ran with a lower than it should oil level for longer than it should've. I could tell the oil was getting low by how the gears felt when changing and how the engine sounded at idle. It's using too much oil now and I'll have to sort it out pronto. The valve stem seals likely had time to harden more than they would otherwise have done in the 9 months the engine sat without running.
Found the FI error too, it's the gear position sensor and it only gives an error in 6th gear when you've been in 6th for a while. Resets every time if you just change out of 6th and turn the ignition off and back on. When it faults it sets the ECU to think the bike is in 4th, completely unrestricted, so it's not a problem when riding. I will take it out and clean it to see if it fixes it, but it might even be worn out by now.
Before the trip I sorted some of the final things that needed doing.
- set the fast idle lower
- adjust the new throttle and clutch cables a bit
- fitted another horn, a Stebel Magnum
- wired in the heated grips
- extended the shift lever so I could get my MX boots in under it properly
I fell in Morocco, ruined the hand guards, damaged the engine bars on both sides and scratched up the left side panel and front mud guard badly. Also damaged the left front indicator. Nothing that can't be easily fixed though so I will set about doing that after a much needed clean.
-
Told you to do the engine too :)
Give me a shout if you need a hand.
-
I won't be spending much money on the bike as it is now. One of the reasons I restored it rather than selling and buying a new bike is because I figured it'd be more economical. If it becomes uneconomical to maintain/repair then it will get sold/broken without much hesitation. I'm not the sentimental type :)
Valve stem seals should be cheap though.
-
110,000 miles
:clap:
-
Yeah, it's an easy job too, you'll be able to leave the engine in the frame (or at least, most of it).
-
I've just spent the last hour reading through the whole thread (well I did skip some bits.... :shy: ) but I must say well done! If I can add too that wasn't a long time doing it either but I'm sure it felt like it.
Super result. :clap: :star: :thumb:
I have only one criticism..........your shirts! Can you please use plain pattern rags under parts when photographing them. :haha:
Much admiration for your efforts. :)
Joe Rocket. :)))
-
Just a quick update: I bought a Yamaha MT-09 Tracer and decided to break the Strom because it had taken a hard fall on a trip in Morocco. It had some bents fork and and other damage and I wasn't going to bother fixing it and I needed the space it was taking up in the garage. It also started using lots of oil on the way back up from Morocco. I sold off a few of the trick/non-stock bits and then Mad Phil bought the whole of the rest of the bike (which at that point was still a complete rideable bike.) He replaced the front forks and put it through MOT, the Strom lives on! :clap: