Best oil to use while 'running in'

[haggetty]

Awaiting delivery of my new Glee I have been soaking up loads of info re running the thing in. I do favour the non babying approach but will not 'ride it like I stole it'  cos I haven 't, and in any case, if I had stole it I'd probably ride sensibly so as not to attract attention. So. Moderate to firm use will be my way.
I do fancy doing an early oil change though  maybe at around 50-100 miles. My question is what to use to take the engine through to the 600 service? Does the bike start on mineral in which cas I must do the same, or does it start on semi synth. Some learned expert advocate mineral oil for up to 10k before using fully synth to allow full and complete running in. Any of you chaps know what oil I should use for my  early change. Thanks.

[mjc506]

I don't know what's 'best', but I would agree with you on that very early oil change - there could be a lot of metal floating about in the first charge of oil, and 600miles is a long way...

I used el-cheapo cap mineral oil for the first few changes (25m, 50m, 75m, 150m, 300m) and semi from there. I doubt you need to change it that often either. 50 miles and then 600 should be plenty - I was being paranoid as I'd rebuilt the thing myself

[TravellingStrom]

I always use mineral for the first 10k, the bike is not run in until about 25k (kms not miles)

Change at around the 100-200km, then the 1,000km as per manual.  You can do more in between if you wish, but the first is the most important.

Change filter every oil change is my preference, why have dirt filter with fresh oil???

Cheers
TS

[haggetty]

Good info chaps - thanks.
As the bike is new, I will keep it in the dealer network while the warranty exists. Thereafter I will do more servicing myself.
I wonder what the dealer would use at the 600 service. I would hope that either I can ask them to use mineral oil or even supply the oil to them myself. I presume there should not be any warranty issue as long as the oil meets the requisite specs.

[Jacko]

They can't make any money on the oil that way, don't be surprised if they say no. Dealers tend to believe the bike is still theirs while you're taking it to them to service, your requirements and preferences play second fiddle, they know best so don't want your opinion or input. I'm not saying all dealers are like this of course, just the ones that would refuse to put your oil in your bike.

[geekay]

I'd go to synth at 600 miles and probably not change it before. This "not run in for thousands of miles" is a lot of crap (sorry). It was maybe relevant in the 70's when manufacturing tolerances were massive, but not anymore.

All IMO of course, it's your bike!

[greywolf]

To be on the safe side, use something with a JASO MA rating. Otherwise, It doesn't matter enough to cause any real concern. The idea of avoiding synthetics is decades old and no longer applies, especially with water cooled engines. Many modern engines come from the factory with synthetic oil. Oil filters do a better job after they have trapped some particles.

Really the only concerns are fly-by-night little companies, using the wrong viscosity and energy conserving additives that are bad for wet clutches. Just use a brand you recognise with a JASO MA rating in a viscosity appropriate for the ambient air temperatures according the the owner's manual that is not marked energy conserving and stop the search for the holy grail.

[haggetty]

I happened across this interesting piece containing quite forensic detail of the processes that happen during engine break-in. It has been written to cover late 4 stroke m/c engines and fully accounts for the modern high precision processes used in engine manufacture.
Particularly interesting is the section near the end where Castrol experts themselves recommend the use of cheap mineral oil up to 10,000 miles where they would then recommend a switch to fully synthetic oil.
It seems that use of synthetic oil too early inhibits the full running-in process for some not yet fully understood reasons.
Check the link http://www.ashonbikes.com/content/running

In the grand scheme of things it probably doesn't make a whole heap of difference, but if you have the choice would you rather buy chocolate for your infant to snack on or healthy veg?

[greywolf]

Our bikes go through the process of initial running in on a dynamometer including reaching near red line under load before they leave the factory. There is a lot more heat than light generated by people discussing the "proper" process.

[geekay]

An interesting article actually. I don't generally keep bikes after about 10-15,000 miles though, but interesting all the same.

[greywolf]

The article is over four years old and the thoughts expressed are even older. That's my two pennies on the subject.

[TravellingStrom]

Good info chaps - thanks.
As the bike is new, I will keep it in the dealer network while the warranty exists. Thereafter I will do more servicing myself.
I wonder what the dealer would use at the 600 service. I would hope that either I can ask them to use mineral oil or even supply the oil to them myself. I presume there should not be any warranty issue as long as the oil meets the requisite specs.

I know here in Oz we have no issues with warranty, right out of the box.  There is no limitation on who does the services, as long as they are recorded and done according to Suzukis time schedule

Maybe the UK is the same?

Cheers
TS

[Jacko]

Yes, it is.

[RichyB]

I know it’s a car but I remember BMW doing the Mobil 1 (Fullysnth) “challenge”.

New car filled with Mobil 1 from day, then same oil used for all its subsequent services.

Test was done on a rolling road for 100,000 miles. All the car had was fuel and services.

Technicians disassembled the engine at this point and found all tolerances within factory limits for a new engine!

Was it actually run in? Yes, I suspect so but oil may just have saved any wear?

Personally, and on any new bike, I have always run with whatever is in it from dealer. They all tend to use semi synth these days. I let them service at 600 miles, again semi synth.

Thereafter I take over. I use full synth (right viscosity, of course) @ 1,000 mile and then every 3,000 miles (or 3 months, whichever comes sooner).