Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Club DL250, DL650, DL1000 & DL1050
V-Strom specific discussion => V-Strom specific discussion => Topic started by: Descolada on March 05, 2019, 20:06:08
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Hi,
I started my DL650 this evening only to see a pool of oil develop as the engine was running. It looks like the Oil Cooler hose (the longer of the two - Right Hand) is leaking as a result of rust corrosion at the point where the rubber protector ends.
This hose is scary expensive and I was wondering if anyone knew what sort of pressure the oil was at as it circulates through this pipe. In short, is it worth trying to repair it? Any repair will depend on the pressure the hose is subjected to.
I understand that this is the same part as goes on the SV650, part 16460-17G00 - is that right?
Just wanted to see if anyone else had needed to resolve the same problem.
Thanks
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I had exactly the same problem on my bike a couple of months ago. I just got a 2nd hand pair of oil pipes off everyone's favourite auction site and replaced the corroded one.
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Thanks for taking the time to reply Doug. I've had to do just as you suggest and found a replacement that looks to be in good condition off beebay. It comes with the bolts and I am going to have to see if I can find the metal washer/gaskets - not sure if they will be needed, but as with the sump plug gasket, Suzuki suggest you replace with new ones. Only draw back is that it's coming from the States, it seems crazy to me that I can get this, the bolts, the P&P and the import duty for about half what I would have to pay in the UK. It's a gamble but as always, my bike is up for its MOT at the end of the month and I have to get this fixed ASAP.
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I'm a bit late it seems, but a mate of mine took his oil feed hoses off (VFR800) and took them to a local hydrolics company who made some up for him. Can't remember what the cost was but he was happy!
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I forgot to get new washers for the banjo bolts and had to reuse the old ones and have had no problems, everything is all nice and dry down there.
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Before you fit any new hoses,take the old banjo bolt seals to your local
hydraulic hose specialist and ask them for “Dowty seals” of the same size.Much better than plain copper/aluminium washers as they have a built in oil seal.
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+1 for your local hydraulic bods.
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Might be a bit late with this reply but I had the same thing, albeit the short hose instead, and the hoses from an 03-08 SV650 are a direct match. I got mine on ebay for something like £20, was used but absolutely mint condition to be fair.
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+1 on that, I had an xj9 and the hoses were gone Yamaha wanted £130 each for them but I took them to a local hydraulic firm and they made them up for me using the existing connection fittings with a 120psi rating for £36
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Thanks for all the advice folks. I was giving some thought to how I might limit future rust issues around the oil cooler and Oil Filter (which I have had rust through three times now - Genuine Suzuki filter). Given that I live in Scotland and we are not known for our heatwaves I was wondering about using a spray on high zinc paint on items that continually rust.
I know the other alternative is to cover everything in ACF50 or grease, but all these methods have failed in past years. Any thoughts?
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Regular coats of ACF50. Not just once in October like some do.
My xj600 and my old k6 wee were year round bikes. Never had anything rust through with regular coatings and the occasional dab of paint on the cooler pipes.
I was doing the mileage that meant when the filter started to show rust it was due ro be replaced. I also changed oil filter every 3.5k.
The council's around here love to grit also.
But I suspect in Scotland you get slightly more. Prevention and maintenance is the key as the only cure will be to not ride the bike in the wet or salted months.
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Regular and multiple applications of ACF are the way forward, takes a bit of extra time during a big wash but it works well. For the hoses, once I replaced mine I wrapped the new sections in silicone tape, making sure to cover the crimped ends fully as they seem to rust first and were the reason for my leak.
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Could you tell me what sort of "Silicone Tape" you used, I had been considering using a self amalgamating rubber tape to produce a waterproof lining and also provide a little extra "stone chip" protection. I am, however, a little concerned about the temperature difference once wrapped and whether this might cause overheating issues with the oil.
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I have been struggling to find anyone who keeps the '09168-14015-000 gaskets' in stock. They either want silly money or don't have enough in stock and will have to order in further delaying this repair.
So, does anyone have any thoughts on the following;
Exhibit A. The original '09168-14015-000 gaskets'
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-Genuine-Part-Gasket-14x20x1-5-09168-14015-000/382451572946?epid=651363083&hash=item590be3e0d2:g:5WoAAOSwwS1a6bQ5 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-Genuine-Part-Gasket-14x20x1-5-09168-14015-000/382451572946?epid=651363083&hash=item590be3e0d2:g:5WoAAOSwwS1a6bQ5)
Exhibit B. An alternative, Non-Suzuki, solution. The dimensions are identical but this one states "Aluminum" as the material where as the original metal is not stated. This one is considerably cheaper.
https://www.motor-doctor.co.uk/products/206232-seal-oil-drain-plug (https://www.motor-doctor.co.uk/products/206232-seal-oil-drain-plug)
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Buy the cheaper one. The sizes are the same. It does the same job. :-)
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Careful with ordering the sealing washers as they need to be the correct thickness and diameter.
Suzuki ones will be copper and the torque spec will be different.
For a dealer to order Suzuki parts they should be with a dealer the next working day if in Suzuki GB, 2-3 days if in France or Germany.
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Yeah, I'm going to hold off on those other cheaper washers for now. They want a silly amount of money in postage. Will probably see how the ones already on the bike are when I take them off.
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Could you tell me what sort of "Silicone Tape" you used, I had been considering using a self amalgamating rubber tape to produce a waterproof lining and also provide a little extra "stone chip" protection. I am, however, a little concerned about the temperature difference once wrapped and whether this might cause overheating issues with the oil.
Not the exact stuff I used, but it's near the same:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-2SWELDBK-Silweld-Silicone-Fusing/dp/B007554ZI6
Good for use on temperatures up to around 250C and massive amounts of pressure; it held my old pipe together for long enough until I could get parts ordered in. Brilliant stuff, wrap it round pull it tight and it self seals almost instantly.
Edit: Where in Scotland are you? I'm in Edinburgh :)
Careful with ordering the sealing washers as they need to be the correct thickness and diameter.
Suzuki ones will be copper and the torque spec will be different.
For a dealer to order Suzuki parts they should be with a dealer the next working day if in Suzuki GB, 2-3 days if in France or Germany.
I had to order 2 banjo bolts and washers along with it for my repair, got the genuine parts through Robinsons Foundry and they're not copper, look the same as the ones in the advert OP linked.
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Not the exact stuff I used, but it's near the same:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-2SWELDBK-Silweld-Silicone-Fusing/dp/B007554ZI6
That's interesting stuff, looks just like a silicone version of my rubber self amalgamating tape.
Edit: Where in Scotland are you? I'm in Edinburgh :)
Dundee
Robinsons Foundry
Oh, I'd forgotten about these folks. I need to go take a look at them again. :thumb:
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Had a leak on mine when I bought it...turns out it wasn't the hose,in the end it was a hairline crack along the length of the thread in the cooler itself. No idea how or why that happened as there was no visual damage. Fleabay to the rescue once again with second hand cooler.
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Search for “14mm Dowty seal” on Fleabay,they are only a couple of quid for 5.Plus they are designed for VERY high pressure and temperatures,and that includes free postage.I have been using this type of seal on hydraulics for 50 yrs and never known one fail.
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The washers I used were m14x20x2 banjo bolt washers(Aluminium). I bought 2 oem washers but needed more so sourced them from fleabay after measuring them.
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Hi Folks.
Just wanted to post a follow-up completion comment on this repair.
The parts arrived from the US very quickly. The seller included both of the oil pipes, plus the banjo bolts and a full set of washers. The condition of the pipes, given that they were second hand, was outstanding. No sign of rust whatsoever (they came from Kansas in case you are interested). I'll admit, I was very nervous ordering a second hand part from that far away, but as previously stated, buying it in the UK was just far too expensive.
I also ordered some of the 14mm 'Dowty' washers as recommended here, but given that a full set of washers was included in the purchase of the pipes (I knew the banjo bolts were included but not the washers), I ended up not using the 'dowty' washers. I definitely have other things I can use them for so they won't go to waste and are a great design. I was unaware that these existed until they were suggested.
I also took the advice on the silicone tape and purchased some "Permatex Self-fusing Silicone Tape". This stuff was great and I used it to wrap the new pipes on the exposed metal sections and over the rubber protector (where my original pipe eventually rusted through). The pipes are new thoroughly protected.
I drained the oil and removed the oil filter (It was also quite rusted so I changed it for a new one). The oil cooler pipes came OFF without incident and I took the opportunity to clear the whole area around the joints with engine degreaser. Refitting went without any problems and I torqued up the banjo bolts to the setting in the workshop manual.
Finally I refilled with oil and let her run for a while so I could check for leaks. Nothing so far and I think it's job done. I have left the belly plate off for now so I can easier inspect the area for a while.
Oh, I also applied ACF anti-corrosion grease (the blue stuff) to all the banjo bolt heads and any remaining exposed pipe so as to fend off any early corrosion.
I'll finish this with some photographic goodness.
(https://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o693/D-Colada/IMG_20190317_160300828_zpsqzwrhdtl.jpg)
(http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o693/D-Colada/IMG_20190317_160240214_zpsmnejxyum.jpg)
(http://i1338.photobucket.com/albums/o693/D-Colada/IMG_20190317_160253606_zpsbayj0wum.jpg)
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Looks like you scored a decent set of hoses there mate: good for a few more years again.
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Hello Des,just noticed that you have the same model as I have.Just for interests sake,how many miles do you have on it and is it used all year round.
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Hello Des,just noticed that you have the same model as I have.Just for interests sake,how many miles do you have on it and is it used all year round.
Well, I'd have to go check on the mileage, but what I can tell you is that I'm not using the old girl quite as much as I used to. We had a change of jobs in the family that required a second car. I mulled long and hard about selling her but couldn't bring myself to do it. So I spend alot of time making sure she is well maintained. I used to use her every day, now it's once in a blue moon.