Ignition key switch getting harder and harder

[bonne]

I need to use more and more force to unlock the steering lock and to switch on the ignition on my Vstrom 1050. From time to time I spray with a short squirt of silikone... Maybe it is a bad idea?

[Barbel Mick]

I'd never put anything oil based into a lock. It will attract dirt & cause the pins to stick, making it worse.
Flush the lock out well with a contact cleaner. Then use a dry lube, graphite powder or spray, or you can get 'special' lock lubrication sprays.
Something like this .............
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ABUS-PS88-50ml-Lubricating-Spray/dp/B000Y8P8BY?source=ps-sl-shoppingads&th=1

[bonne]

Yeah, bit this is why I use silicone... because it does not attract dust.

I will flush with a contact cleaner

[porter]

The key on my 1000 is the same, tried lots of different lubes, no great change. With the key in the lock it helps if I push on the top corner of the key towards the fuel tank as I turn it.

[Barbel Mick]

"short squirt of silikone..."

Sorry bonne, I read that as Silkolene.   

Maybe the stuff you are using isn't doing what it's supposed to do? Give it a good flush through & try something different?
Also, just wiggling the key or pulling it down towards you in the lock can help.
Having said that, I do remember one or two on here having to change the lock or at least strip it & file the pins. Not sure if that was after all other efforts to lubricate & free the lock had been made. 

[bonne]

Ah, sorry... in Denmark we often use K instead of C

[Barbel Mick]

Or my inability to read!!   

[Pete O Tube]

The other thing is - is your key clean? they accumulate the fluff/lint/crud out of your pocket in the grooves in the key, this highly likely gets transferred in to the lock.
Can't say I've had a problem with the four Suzuki's I've had in the last 5 years - flushed all of the ignition switches out with GT85 after buying each bike and kept the keys clean, never had a problem.

[MartinW]

Pencil lead works well.

[Gert]

If the igniition key unlocks on both the fuel cap and the seat lock without any problem, and the spare key also has difficulty in turning the ignition switch on, chances are that the key barrel is damaged or somehow restricted.

If you are under the group that have a multiple keys on your keyring, it is possible that the weight combined with vibration, etc, has slowly caused a wafer or more to deform.

One would automatically think it would be best to replace the ignition switch at this stage. In some countries, the ignition key contains a transponder, that is matched to the bike's ECU. Making this option expensive to replace.

A possible work around, is to remove the ignition switch barrel. Once the barrel is on your work-bench, you can see whether any of the wafers are standing proud, thus binding when the key is turned. If any wafers are deformed / not flush with the barrel, you can file a bit off the wafe with the key in the barrel or remove one wafer at a time for a closer inspection

A special note: each of these wafers are spring loaded, so take care as not to loose any of these small springs.  Also there is often a spring loaded ball bearing in the electrical part of the switch that locates the switch positions.

https://www.v-strom.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=35854.msg360578#msg360578

[mrp192]

I had exactly the same with my 1050, but hadn’t tried any spray lubricant.
Following the advice on here I bought some graphite powder in a small bottle with a very thin applicator that fits inside the lock.
Worked a treat, lock now like new again.

[bonne]

I often wipe the key from dirt. Keyring only contains one additional key.

flushing with contact cleaner and then using dry lock lube made the lock work much better

Yeah, the key is part of an immobilizer system, so it would have been very expensive to replace. I think that I do not need to do this now

[Barbel Mick]

Don't let it get bad again, clean & spray it a few times a year. 

[Rusty Nuts]

If the lock is like the 650L2, the wafers are all sprung from one side. Whwn the lock starts ro wear, they do so unevenly and they don't retract flush into the lock, which means it won't unlock properly. This is why pushing the head of the key forwards can usually give enough pressure and movement to retract the little blighters. see how much movement there is in this clip.

[purplebikeunicorn]

Likely the common wafer problem.

If anything like my 650:
To turn the key from LOCK to OFF you need to apply pressure on the key towards 2 o'clock. To turn the key from OFF to ON you need to apply pressure on the key towards 5 o'clock. To turn from ON doesn't normally need any pressure but you get the gist.

At some point I will remove the ignition switch and "adjust" the wafers. If you were to get a replacement ignition switch (and fuel cap + seat lock) but not replace the ECU, it would in theory be possible to get two aftermarket keys cut with the replacement key bitting, but have them copy the chips from your existing keys.