Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Club DL250, DL650, DL1000 & DL1050
Oily Rag - Dedicated to Pat, Greywolf. 26/06/45 - 04/06/18 => Oil/Lubrication => Topic started by: Kobe on May 20, 2018, 11:45:55
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Hi all,
after a 10 montha of ownership and not many miles I wanted to check and clean front sprocket. I found a lot of dirt and that I will need to buy a new sprocket. I am in doubt in the reat one. Could you have a look at the photos and let me know your ideas? Thank you so much blokes. Kobe :)
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Could just be the angle but the rear looks like its starting to hook, in my opinion if replacing the chain its not worth using old sprockets as it shortens the life expectancy of the new chain.
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You are right, it is hooked a bit. I think it will be the best option to buy sprockets and the chain and just replace it. Thank you for your help :) :)
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Since you are thinking of replacing the chain and both sprockets, why not consider changing the sprocket tooth number. Going to a 16 tooth up front will drop the rpm by roughly 580 rpm, which is not much in itself but may help with highway speeds. Going to a 14 tooth front makes for better off-road slow speed control. Don't have to ride the clutch as much. Dropping the rear sprocket by 3 teeth is roughly the same 1 tooth increase in front. There are many threads on the subject if you are interested. On my side of the world, 14 F / 47 R is my choice for off-road and town, while for town and highway I run 16 F / 45 R. https://www.gearingcommander.com/ It don't matter what setup that you end up using as long as you enjoy the ride.
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And do buy a quality chain\ sprocket kit (all in one) I.e. DID or Tsubaki.
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Thank you for all your tips and help. I did buy a DID chain and JT sprockets 15 and 47. I followes all the directions on installing a new chain set. I adjusted chain to have 30mm slack. I turn the engine on and seems to me to have kind of wierd movement of the chain. Not linear I would say. I took a short clip of it here is the link https://youtu.be/xT51I33wEm8 Thank you for your toughts :ty:
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It is very easy to over crimp the master-link. Rear wheel up on stand, turn by hand and observe if any kink in that area of the chain. Chain whip that you see is due to being in gear with engine around idle rpm and no real load on the swing arm. Best to test drive, once you have checked for master-link over crimp or any kink in the chain. May just be lube required and I know that you said it is a new chain. You did fit a 525 and not a 530?
I find that sometimes, when the chain is too loose, it is almost as though the clutch does not want to release the gear when shifting from 2nd to 1st when stationary. Double clutch by letting the clutch out slightly and pulling it back in, helps address this or tighten the chain a bit.
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If you have no pinched links,an easy check,then your fine, new chains are a little stiff for the first few miles, there are a lot of mating surfaces in them.
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I have been working so didn't have much time. But yesterday I went for a ride and what seems to me that throttle is more responsive but at the same time that engine have to go through extra friction or whatever :) I am going for holidays so than I will investigate more :lala:
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Over six years ago I added two teeth extra to my rear sprocket on my 2008 DL1000 and what a huge difference it makes, so much improved response in all gears, more get up and go..!
I'd never return to the standard (boring) gearing again.....ever..!!
I've a ScottOiler chain oiler fitted and I'm obsessed about lubing my chain, I've adjusted my DL1000 chain four times in the past ten years.
I use heavy lube chainsaw oil for my chain/sprockets since I bought the bike new in 2008.