Chain Lubrication

[saunders]

Continuing for a post I put on the general forum regarding a chain lubrication system [Scot oiler or PDOiler] I went for the ProOiler system.

There are good points and bad point to the system.

The prooiler works well and once you have found some one with a degree in Electrical / mechanical engineering to decipher the excessive technical information they send you, it is relatively OK to fit [A bit scary tapping into the speedo cable].
The speedo cable is tapped [very easy to do and scary], the little red plastic thing is great, it puts a pin into the cable so there is no cutting  


the white stuff is epoxy resin as I did not want to drill into my Glee [at the moment]


The oil bottle is happy next to the rear light and out of the way


Pump behind the faring, its out of the way and there is no tubes all over.


There have been a few little issues with it [Excess oil - need to re-adjust it -- my fault not the system], but just came back from a European 3,500 km long weekend in the Sun [30oC  ) , the Rain   and the weather in-between] the oiler worked well and apart from having to recalibrate it again to make sure that its correct all is well.

There are a few things I would suggest to the manufactures:
1. Make the installation  guide more simple [with more pictures] as 99% of it is technical stuff you do not need to know [that can be kept for those long winter nights]
2. Calibration and the funny numbering system - get rid of it and put in an auto mode so you put it on auto, turn the rear wheel 10 times and then save it - if its so clever [like they say] it should do the calculation for you.

Will keep you up dated of any changes and when I know how to out the pics on I will get them done.

[Juvecu]

Thanks for the info, not heard about these before. I use a PDOiler myself and very happy with it, no fuss, it just works.

Remember to send your suggestions to the manufacturer if you haven't done so already, they probably won't find them here.

[TravellingStrom]

I also bought one and it has been excellent. Once you get the initial settings it runs itself. I agree that there is too much tech stuff but being a techo it makes for good reading

I did mention to Arnold when I was at his place to make it simpler and afaik he will be doing so at some stage

The main Con for me is the priming if the system. It takes a long time and as I rode in a lot of rain recently I also ran out of oil and had to reprime it

But, the Pro side of the ledger more than makes up for that

Getting the fling off to a minimum takes a bit of effort, by that I mean riding the bike at different speeds over a fair distance but once you know where it needs to be normally it is easy to adjust for wet or fast riding

I highly recommend this product and so far it has clocked up over 30,000km and going strong. I have yet to use the spare set of nozzles I was supplied

[saunders]

After speaking to Arnold [a very nice and helpful person] he as wrote me an idiots guide on how to set the system, also he said there will be a new version out that will use GPS to work out your speed, distance, etc. so the only thing you need to do is increase it in the wet and lower it in the dry [as I do not GPS gives weather conditions   ]

From the table it looks like something out of an engineering degree exam

But, once it is set for your bike it will be fit and forget [average oil bottle lasting 4-5000 miles, or in my case every oil/filter service]

Idiots guide
1. turn on the contact of the bike (display starts up and ends in your
current setting)

2. push and hold + and - button, oH appears.

3. you can go trough all the menu options with the + button, but for now push
it once and oC appears. (Calibration menu, where you change tables)

4. push - button to see the current table, display should change from oC
to your current table, like 17

5. select a leaner table by clicking the + button, like 20

6. The new table should be saved, so bear with me: hold down the + button
for a few seconds to return to the menu options, oC appears.

7. push the + button to go to the SAVE menu until oA appears in the
display, oC > oS > oP > ot > or > od > oA

8. push the - button, oA changes to SA

9. Hold down the minus button again but now for a few seconds, You'll see
SA > St > oA
The settings are now saved.


I have a few European trips planned, June is:
20 days is [not in perfect order, but you get the idea], a lot of km's in a little time.
Poland
Ukraine
Crimea
Romania
Bulgaria
Istanbul
Serbia
Moldova
Slovakia
Slovenia
Croatia
Austria
Germany
-- and possible a few other places

And one in August:
Germany
Denmark
Sweden
Estonia
Latvia
Lithuania
Poland

Will keep you informed how the oiler works [both good and bad].

[TravellingStrom]

You are correct with the oil use

I have the 250ml reservoir and I find in normal use at the engine service, I use 2.7l of 3l for the engine and I use the remainder in the ProOiler

The only time I drained it was in long rainy rides as I had it up on max

[Juvecu]

That is way too complicated I have a knob under the seat that I turn to 3 in summer and 5 in winter, that's it.

[saunders]

That is way too complicated I have a knob under the seat that I turn to 3 in summer and 5 in winter, that's it.

This system is NOT a continual drip system like the others, once the initial settings are done so the oiler adjust the amount oil given to your chain for your speed you are doing then, yes, press the button up - more in wet and down - less  in dry conditions [with the correct amount of oil added the the chain for you speed, because that is what the initial start-up is for].
 

[Juvecu]

I understand what it is, but my considerably less complicated continuous "drip" oiler works perfectly well which makes me think that none of the fancy speed monitoring is needed. My oiler has a wick type nozzle that absorbs the oil and then rubs it off on the chain rather than a pipe type nozzle that just pours it out. I think the wick is very instrumental in not needing to worry too much about the speed the bike is travelling at to the same extend as other oilers do. It's a much simpler solution than GPS speed tracking and time monitoring coupled with fancy electronics, all of which I think makes for a greater possibility of it failing.  You can also suggest that they incorporate a temperature sensor into it, that way they can add more complicated options based on which temperature it is

The PDOiler has been fit and forget for the most part, exactly what I wanted. If you're someone that wants a speed matched calibration driven precision measured oiler then get the oiler that does all of that and smile at how simple my solution is and how it can't match you solution's accuracy (and you'd be right too! )

[Jacko]

KISS.

[Fatbelly]

I'm well fed up with chain lubrication and all the stuff available. I'm thinking I may go back to gold old gear oil and an oil can. Smells like cat piss when it's warm but makes the chain last a very long time. Dead cheap too.

[macvisual]

I'd be using 'chain saw' oil, nice heavy lube (anti-fling) and not that expensive. I've a Scottoiler fitted to my bike and I don't use Scottoil, too messy.

Try chainsaw oil my friend.

[Walruzoar]

I have a scottoiler which the previous owner installed.
OK, I guess, but I'm much happier with this as a chain lube solution:

1) http://www.sdoc100.co.uk/products/sdoc100-chain-cleaner .
2) http://www.sdoc100.co.uk/products/sdoc1 ... hain-spray .

The cleaner worked like magic - the grime of ages fell off as I was spraying it on.
A gentle pressure wash & the chain & rear sprocket was looking great.
The white chain grease applied well and stayed put once cured.

Lather, rinse, repeat - job's a good 'one!

 :bike:

[Jacko]

I use paraffin in a paint sprayer run off the compressor, cleans chains up a treat. If you try this then make sure no one nearby is smoking.

[Abercol]

Still happy with my spray of WD-40 once every 2-300miles....over 10,000 miles on the Vee chain now and still only adjusted twice.

Not bad considering I don't tend to hang about & my penchant for pies has me tipping the scales close to the weight for a "normal" rider + pillion.