Suzuki V-Strom (VStrom) Owners Club DL250, DL650, DL1000 & DL1050
Oily Rag - Dedicated to Pat, Greywolf. 26/06/45 - 04/06/18 => Accessories and After Market items => Topic started by: Stonec0ld on May 18, 2020, 13:48:59
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-sigh-
I don't know why I do it to myself, but I decided to give another small job a go myself. Once again I'm left angry, frustrated and with more problems than when I started...
I recently bought a bigpie fusebox, a lovely bit of kit but no matter how hard I tried I couldn't get my hands on the connector under the coolant. So foolishly I decided to try lifting the tank. I read the manual, watched 2 you tube videos and felt confident to give it a go. I carefully removed all the bolts and clips to remove the side panels, I removed the little plastic bit around the headstock all successfully with no breaking of plastics or rounding off bolts. All that was left was the 2 bolts at the top of the tank and the one at the bottom. The top 2 came off fine but the bottom bolt was a little stiff. It was stiff, slowly coming loose I didn't think anything of it, until the little b*stard snapped off!
Managed to fit the fusebox (yaaay) but now I'm left with a sheared bolt at the bottom of the tank.
Question is, how do I get the f*cker out? Do I need to take the tank off, then the little frame bit above the coolant bottle and try and unscrew it from the other side?
Do I even need to? Can I get away with all the other bolts keeping the tank on?
Any help and guidance much appreciated.
Pics to follow
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Before
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OK it won't let me upload the after photo even at a size of 75kb, but that bolt in the middle has snapped off and about half is still left in there
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After
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What's left inside
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I would take the tank off, remove that bracket and remove the bolt from underneath then replace. Put copper grease on the new bolt.
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As above what UK_Vstrom650 said. should just come out with the plate off Paul, no damage done that way. :thumb:
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That's exactly what I was about to say. With added plusgas / penetrative fluid of your choice.
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Thought as much... I put it all back as I wanted to pretend it never happened.
I've squirted some WD40 penetration stuff in there so I'll let that soak for a bit then give it another go.
Does anyone know what bolt I need to order to replace it once I get the little shit out? Assuming I don't knacker anything else on the way that is
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I think its a M10 not to sure maybe one of the blokes may know later.
Its says 35mm M8 online.
https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2007-Suzuki-v-strom-650-DL650-fuel-tank/o/m147555sch524413
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I've found a few places that sell it, bolt is about £2, postage is £6.99 ### ###
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:groan:
I’d try one of those Sheared bolt removal tools first so you don’t need to remove the tank. They can be quite successful. Several different types on the market. Screwfix do some for less than £4 a set
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And the cheap Chinesium extractor snaps off in the bolt and you're even more stuffed than before. If you have any doubts about getting it out then leave it to someone who can fix it: there will be engineering places open.
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I've found a few places that sell it, bolt is about £2, postage is £6.99 ### ###
Kayfast on ebay - M8x35 flanged hex 8.8 plated £3.65 for 4 posted. Same price for 1 so get the 4.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-FLANGED-HEXAGON-BOLTS-FLANGE-HEX-HEAD-SCREWS-HIGH-TENSILE-STEEL-8-8-PLATED/183187944208?hash=item2aa6da3310:m:mNDVZFkv-anlYqxgOa2thaw&var=690464664271 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-FLANGED-HEXAGON-BOLTS-FLANGE-HEX-HEAD-SCREWS-HIGH-TENSILE-STEEL-8-8-PLATED/183187944208?hash=item2aa6da3310:m:mNDVZFkv-anlYqxgOa2thaw&var=690464664271)
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Perfect thanks!
Do I have to take the tank off, or reckon I'd get away with taking out these bolts?
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No need to remove the tank, just remove the tank Mount by undoing the said bolts.
You should be able to unscrew the remaining thread from underneath if its not seized but something must be up for it to snap in the first place... :shrug:
Fingers crossed it's not ...
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Super, that's this weekend job then
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Mr. Nick beat me to it.
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Don't forget to grease the new one ..
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Copper grease is at the ready. All the other bolts were obviously greased and I had no trouble, I gave them a little grease on the way back in. I'll keep squirting a little penetrant on the bolt and all the others on the tank mount just in case whilst I wait for the new bolts.
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If you struggle give me a shout, I'm off for at least the next 2 weeks and I have suitable bolts in stock. You can if needs be, ride straight into the garage, dump your 'bike and retreat to the front garden to distance. If we need anything else screwfix is only a couple of miles away. :thumb:
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Amazing. Suzuki bolts are also made of cheese. I thought it was only the screws.
TLP, that is a mighty generous offer. I presume payment will be measured in slices?!
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I'm furloughed so I can only carry out voluntary work. Last week I was cutting back the foliage on our local footpaths, I intend to decimate more nettles tomorrow. :lala:
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cheap Chinesium
That is an excellent word :thumb: just saying
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There seems to be no sign of corrosion on the bolt. Just twisted apart like a piece of warm toffee.
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I wonder if it was loctited on previously?
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Having watched a mate exothermically remodel the tank on his Yam 50 while checking the fuel level with a match many moons ago, I'm probably going with taking the usual MAP gas spanner to it as being a bad thing...
I think it did actually increase the capacity of the tank though.
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Did he singe his eyebrows in the process?
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Bolt arrived earlier than expected, delivery estimate was Tuesday. Might nip out at lunch and have a bash at getting the mount out
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The person that designed that petrol tank wants f*****g it's a hell of a job to replace a service item like air filter, plugs, and header tank top up. It's probably the same wanker that designed the beak,
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:shock:
Hope you use protection when you do ... Stay safe. :thumb:
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@Colin - well said lol
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It's going slowly...
This is how I started
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This is after 45 mins...
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Looks as if the best way would be to drill it out and put a tap through it.Tap the nearest size nut you can get on it.Start drilling with the largest drill that will just fit in the nut and it will give you the centre of the broken bolt so you keep away from the threads you want to preserve.If you lived near near me it would only take me a few minutes as I have a stand drill.
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Take to TPL
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I'm going to keep at it for a bit, mainly as I'm stubborn but also because I can't be bothered to put all the side panels and stuff back on the bike...
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I'll pick it up, bring it back here, weld a nut on the threads showing and wind it out the other side. If that fails I can grind that nut off and weld another on.
I'll then deliver it back. :thumb:
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:text-goodpost:
The heat involved may help, too.
I'd be very tempted to take Mr. Power up on that offer.
If you've not done the drilling out thing, or haven't got good drills, a vice and preferably a stand drill, things have a habit of going sideways. Literally.
Also, it'll excuse TLP from nettle rash duties for a while.
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There's no sign of corrosion so next causes are either in with some serious threadlock, or it's been cross threaded. However, seeing no signs of either on the thread sticking out the bottom, so there's something awry here.
Take TLP up on the offer: it gives him something to do and it'll probably stop this turning more expensive.
On closer inspection of the pics, I'm not so sure about the cross threading now: they could well look a little wrong. It might just be the pic, but the last 2 threads in the 'before' look flattened a bit. Not so easy to tell on the 'after' for some reason...
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I get the feeling that will need drilling out. With a threaded sleeve on the plate it doesn't give much room for tapping it out. A good pillar drill with a bolted down vice is what you need. Failing that, grind off the threaded insert and have a nut welded to the plate instead.
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Thanks all, TLP you have a PM awaiting
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A new replacement bracket is £51 which is a bit steep for a bit of pressed steel but not the end of the world.
I would have given up after 10-15 mins of attempting to extract the remaining section.
Got the grinder out and welded on a new nut.
Even my shitty welding skills are capable of a couple of tack welds with an arc welder.
(The mrs only recently told me she learnt to weld in year 9 D&T.
They didn't let us near anything like that in my school- the teachers knew us too well. lol
That may be why she's got a degree and a career and I'm the thick one running a shop and setting peoples garden furniture on fire :shrug: )
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lol
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Sorted. I simply welded on a flange nut and it came straight out.
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Fantastic! Not having either a flange nut or welding equipment that would have taken me ages...
You're a true gent TLP!
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He does have his moments :whistle:
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:clap: :bow-blue:
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Nice one :thumb:
What was the problem then? Rust? Dodgy bolt?
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No corrosion at all, not even a speck of rust anywhere. I suspect the bolt had been seriously over tightened at some point, either pulling the female threads too close together or galling them.
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well done mr power, I'll keep u in mind next time I make a balls of something :whistle:
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TLPOWER!!! What a star! :bow-blue: :bow-blue: :bow-blue:
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TLP well done mate :clap: :clap:
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Nice work TL .. :thumb:
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That's enough, now. Don't encourage him. Back on community service tomorrow.
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True dat. :roll: