Author Topic: Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve  (Read 4318 times)

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Offline WayneS

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Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve
« on: June 12, 2016, 17:09:35 »
Has anyone fitted and used one of these?

https://www.louis.de/en/artikel/stahlbus-oil-drain-valve-fuer-Suzuki-dl-650-v-strom-abs/10002846?filter_bike_id=1826&list=52565670&filter_article_number=10002846

I had the drain plug strip in my Vee and the repair, with a Time-Set, was a PIA.
As usual these things never occur at a time when you can just leave the bike until you have the time to repair it at your leisure.
The repair was good and lasted the entire time of ownership without any further problems.
This time, with a new Glee, I would prefer prevention rather than cure.


 

Offline Offtheclockuk

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Re: Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve
« Reply #1 on: June 12, 2016, 17:30:56 »
Not cheap but it looks like a tricky little bit of kit.

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Offline greywolf

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Re: Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve
« Reply #2 on: June 12, 2016, 18:35:06 »
I like that better than the Fumoto valve design. It doesn't stick out as far, doesn't have an external trigger than can be thrown by brush and looks like it will fit without trimming the shark fin casting protector.
Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A outlasted me.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 (K2-L2) DL1000s. Veek=2014+ (L4+) DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 (K4-L1) DL650s. Glee = 2012+ (L2+) DL650s

Offline WayneS

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Re: Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve
« Reply #3 on: June 12, 2016, 19:37:49 »
I did look at the Fumoto valve but, for the drawbacks stated, dismissed it.
The Stahlbus valve protrudes 22mm, including the cap, when it is installed. This is about twice the depth of the original drain plug. 
The original drain plug is 17mm so there is, easily, sufficient clearance.
As mentioned the cost is high but this is about half the cost of a Time-Sert repair kit (and that is without the problem of getting the bike onto its side and the possibility of it going wrong, fortunately, in my case, all was well).   
I never found the reason why my sump plug stripped as I always used a, known, torque wrench and never felt any issues whilst undoing it or doing it up.
I have never liked the idea of steel bolts being used, in aluminium threads, where regular dismantling takes place.
The problem must the widespread as there are a lot of repair kits out there to fix the problems.
Are stripped sump plugs a known problem on the V-Strom?
 

Offline greywolf

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Re: Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve
« Reply #4 on: June 12, 2016, 21:11:51 »
The usual problems causing stripped threads are a regular wrench being used by a person who does not have a feel for the effort to be used, a torque wrench not being set correctly and a torque wrench being out of calibration. I once forgot to set my clicker type torque wrench and left it at zero where it needs to be stored when not in use. It just heels over immediately and never clicks in that configuration. I kept my head in the game though and stopped before any damage was caused.

I doubt if there has been a single instance of the threads stripping when proper torque was used. There is no problem with the materials involved. Oil will coat all the threads until stopped by the washer so dissimilar metals is not a problem.
Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A outlasted me.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 (K2-L2) DL1000s. Veek=2014+ (L4+) DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 (K4-L1) DL650s. Glee = 2012+ (L2+) DL650s

Offline WayneS

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Re: Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve
« Reply #5 on: June 12, 2016, 21:35:40 »
You are probably correct. One wrong usage and the damage is done.
The plug stripped not long after I bought the bike.

Offline greywolf

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Re: Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve
« Reply #6 on: June 12, 2016, 22:51:02 »
The previous owner probably did some damage.
Pat- 2007 DL650A was ridden to all 48 contiguous states. 2012 DL650A outlasted me.
Nicknames I use to lessen typing, Vee = 2002-2012 (K2-L2) DL1000s. Veek=2014+ (L4+) DL1000s. Wee = 2004-2011 (K4-L1) DL650s. Glee = 2012+ (L2+) DL650s

Offline Rich:-)

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Re: Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve
« Reply #7 on: June 13, 2016, 09:49:19 »
I think sump plug thread stripping is pretty common but more so on the more dirt orientated bikes..., and that I think is mainly down to the increased service frequency.

Take the DRZ for example, 2 known issues. Thread stripped from over tightening and casting breaking due to re-use of crush washer.
I once floated the idea of using one of these valves but it got shot down as being vulnerable to being broken off during off-road use, which made no sense as the whole underside of the engine on most trail bikes is protected by a chunky skid pan.

The overriding sentiment was just to replace the crush washers when a lip forms and don't over tighten them, no need for special drain valve, just something else to go wrong.

I don't use a torque wrench when I do mine. I have learnt to feel when the crush washer 'gives' and stop there. I also re-use the washer a couple of times as there is normally plenty of crush left in it..., but washers are cheap so change each time if your not sure.

Offline hookie

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Re: Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve
« Reply #8 on: June 13, 2016, 09:57:34 »
Something very similar came as standard on my ride on mower with it's Briggs and Stratton motor. Very useful for doing quick oil changes between beer breaks. It's very much the envy of owners of lesser mowers where they then spend hours cleaning the old oil drips and splashes off their pride and joys before tackling that long grass....

Offline tallpaul

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Re: Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve
« Reply #9 on: June 13, 2016, 12:29:59 »
lol
Old enough to know better, but still too young to care...

Offline Robotstar5

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Re: Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve
« Reply #10 on: June 14, 2016, 11:16:30 »
Quote removed

I was wondering where I'd seen one, also reminds me the oil needs changing on my mower

Just visible above the barcode label