Trouble starting after being stood for 4 weeks

[Woodyflyer]

Hi
I had to crank the engine over for ages today to the point the battery was nearly  flat before it burst into life on my 2015 Glee.
Normal starts first time ,but today it just won't start. The bike had not been used for 4 weeks and garaged. Is this normal or a possible problem,
Done all the usual checks for leaks and connections but nothing found.
Went for a ride and bike started as normal after the ride .
Any comments would be appreciated
Woody

[greywolf]

What exactly happened? Do you have instruments/lights or is everything totally dead. If you have an active instrument panel, do you have a CHEC displayed? Does pressing the starter power the fuel pump, wind the clock, make a click?

If the starter motor spins but the engine doesn't fire, it's normally flooded in a hurry. Open the throttle to let in more air until it fires if it isn't firing right away.

[bosnjo]

When you say "Won't start", do you mean "Won't crank"? If that's the case and if after a ride it starts (crank) fine, it means the charging system is working fine. If the next day battery has no power to crank the engine, it means the battery itself won't hold the charge and it needs to be replaced. Also, there may be something on the bike that is discharging the battery. Do you have alarm on the bike?
I'd bet on bad battery if you don't have alarm.

[Woodyflyer]

Thanks for the replies
Turned the key as normal , lights on , clocks go thorough  the normal routine,  no CHEC on display , normal noise from fuel pump etc ,bike in neutral  on centre stand, pulled in clutch and pressed starter switch , engine cranks over and over for ages , headlights go out as normal while starter switch is pressed , had to try several times before the engine finally started. Engine was being cranked over at its normal speed so the battery must have been okay.
The only thing that I can think of is fuel starvation  or possible electric fault that stopped the plugs firering ?
Cheers
Woody

[Fat Rat]

Can you take one of the accessible plugs out, put the HT Cap back on and rest the threaded end against the engine block or another good earth and turn the engine over to see if you have a spark?

[greywolf]

Once again. The remedy for not catching right away is to open the throttle to let in more air until it starts to fire. Old fuel in the injector and hose area can make thing dicey at the beginning but a few cranks without firing for whatever reason floods the system with fuel and more air is needed to compensate.

[BlackRockFox]

My money is on what greywolf said:

If you have flooded it you will probably get a strong smell of petrol

Some times you will get this problem if you don't use your bike for a while
The fuel changes somehow and becomes unusable (not in the tank though)
Once the old fuel is cleared you should be OK

On pre injection bikes people used to drain the carb(s) for this reason when storing bikes

[Woodyflyer]

Thanks for your comments
been out and about the past 2 days with no problems
Look like its as greywolf comments , old fuel in the system
The bike will not be used for the next 2 weeks so it will be interesting to see how it starts .
Cheers

[BlackRockFox]

Before you ride it next, try rocking the bike slightly so as to get the fuel moving around a bit

Advice from the AA (yes I know it is for those bloooody 4 wheeled monstrosities)

"Fuel matters
Petrol will stay fresh in a sealed container for about a year but starts to degrade in as little as a month when exposed to the atmosphere – the lighter more volatile fractions evaporate, lowering the fuel’s octane and making starting harder.

Petrol exposed to the atmosphere will start to oxidise over long periods too, producing gum and varnish deposits on fuel system components.  This is more likely to be a problem with older carburettor fuel systems than with sealed fuel injection systems.

Stored diesel should be OK for up to a year, depending on temperature but will start to oxidise over longer periods, producing gum and other sediments that can quickly block filters when the engine is run again.

Bear in mind that diesel fuel specifications change through the year - fuel bought in summer will be much more susceptible to waxing in cold weather than winter diesel formulated to give protection down to at least -15C.

Fuel tank
Unless you are able to ensure a dry stable environment, for periods over a month or so it is best to store a vehicle with a full tank of fuel to reduce the space for water to condense.

Condensation in the fuel tank can be a serious issue:

Corrosion can seriously damage the tank, though most modern tanks are plastic, and fuel lines.
Current petrol contains up to 5% Ethanol which has an affinity for water. In extreme cases phase separation can occur where the Ethanol and water separate and drop to the bottom of the tank
Water allows bacteria and fungal growth in diesel which can require fuel tank removal and cleaning to eradicate.
For long term storage, particularly of older (pre-injection) vehicles, consider using a fuel stabiliser additive. Stabilisers are widely used for garden machinery, and other petrol-powered equipment left unused for a couple of seasons as well as motorbikes taken off the road over winter.  Follow the instructions carefully."

[wilkstrom]

Would a ten minute turn over every 10 days to a fortnight even if not going out on her help. Uses up that bit of old fuel in the line and keeps the battery fully charged.

[greywolf]

There is a problem with that. Byproducts of combustion involve water containing acids and not getting the system hot enough to boil off the water can accelerate engine and exhaust wear or damage. It's better to keep the tank full and add fuel stabiliser such as Sta-Bil marine and open the throttle when starting if the engine doesn't fire right away.